Aurelia 2 semiautomatic pressure valve on top is open. Water pours out. What do I do

First check that any by-pass valves are in proper position. Remember, cold water has to enter in bottom fitting at back of tank, and hot water comes out at top fitting. Thus any valves that may be there, need to be in open position, and any valve between those 2 lines will need to be closed. If all valves are in proper position and working as they should, I would suspect you have a faulty check valve between top (hot) line fitting and tank. One easy way to check that before replacing it, would be to shut incoming water source off, whether running off pump or hose attached outside. Then relieve all pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. Now, go outside and open pressure relief valve carefully ( in case it's hot ) and make sure pressure is relieved there as well. Now, carefully hold pressure relief valve open while you have someone turn water back on, and see if you get good flow from pressure relief valve. If you get good pressure coming out of there, that tells you your tank is getting full, and you have water coming in as needed, so problem has to be on hot side ( top fitting ) and/or onward from there, which would be check valve fitting at top next to check. Remove the check valve and If you don't have a new check valve to try it, just put a short galvanized 1/2" pipe nipple in there for now if needed and that should do it, just attach your fitting directly to nipple. Before you do this, make sure you have removed all aerators etc on taps that may be plugged and tested pressure that way as well just in case. I have seen all of them plug up at same time before. If you remove them and get good pressure, then problem solved.

You need to check 2 things. First, go outside and carefully open pressure relief valve at top of tank,(careful in case hot water spurts out) and make sure there is water in it. Second, look at back of tank inside RV and check your by-pass valves(s) for proper positioning. Cold water enters the water heater at the bottom fitting, so that valve has to be open, as well as leaves water heater at hot fitting at top of tank (the highest fitting) so that valve as well needs to be open. Any valves that may be in between those 2 water lines need to be closed. I am assuming that the heater starts runs, shuts down etc, just not running any hot water through hot side of taps, correct?

Water heater should be set in a drip pan.
Otherwise, put 1 gallon bucket under TP release pipe to catch water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html#drip-pan

When you say relief valve, I assum you are talking about brass valve located on top of tank or near top of tank. This is TP valve and a pipe connects to this valve and runs down to within 6" of bottom of tank. TP valve has a small lever on it.
If you are talking about tank drain valve located at bottom of tank, then add a comment.
Following information is for TP valve.

Dripping TP valve can be caused by 3 different thing:

1) Obstruction inside TP valve. Open TP valve for a moment to flush away particles and slowly lower lever back down. See if water stops dripping, if not, then replace TP valve

2) Defective TP valve: replace TP valve. Turn off electricity to water heater. Let heater cool for several hours so you do not get scalded. Close shut off valve located above tank on cold side. Open tub spout to relieve pressure, open tank drain or open TP valve and empty water below TP valve level. If TP is located on top of tank, not much water has to be drained. Tank is under press when hot, so be careful. Put teflon tape on new valve and install with big pipe wrench by turning clockwise until TP valve is very tight.

3) Overheating tank. TP valve is temperature-pressure valve. If tank water is over 150 degrees, the TP valve starts drizzling hot water to relieve tank pressure.
Lower tank pressure two different ways:
a) turn down thermostat
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html
b) install expansion tank on incoming cold water line
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html#expansion-tank

Try opening the pressure relief valve (carefully so you don't burn yourself) slightly, and see if water comes out and if it is hot. It sounds like you may have very little if any water in there. Check by-pass valves at back of water heater for proper positioning. Cold should go in the bottom, hot out the top. Make sure there is flow through any valves going into bottom, and any valve at the top.Any valves connected in between the hot and cold should be in the off position. If need be, to test if incoming cold water getting into tank at bottom fitting, shut off water, relieve pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. then close all taps. Now remove your drain plug, then turn water back on, and water should shoot out the drain plug hole with good pressure within a few seconds and flow steady while water on. If not you have a restriction such as valve in wrong position or faulty, so try moving valve to get better flow out drain plug. If flow out drain is good, then make sure valve at top fitting on back of tank (if any) is also open for good flow . Any other valves should be closed in between those 2 lines. Let me know what you find.

the pressure relief valve gone weak and opening too soon allowing below pressure water to escape

Your pressure relief valve is open either due to an increase of pressure (that is what it is designed to do) or more likely .the spring in the device is weak and requires replacement . pick one up at Lowes and reinstall the same as removal .You will need a pipe wrench or equivelent and some pipe sealing compound.Hope this helps.

Carefully catch some water in a container from pressure relief valve (pull lever slightly) at top of tank, and see if it's up to temperature. If it's hot there, I suspect your by-pass at back of the tank, is faulty. Depending on what by-pass system your using, it may be in wrong position, blocked, or mixing hot and cold. Cold water flows into bottom of tank, and hot out the top. If any valve in between the 2 lines, close it, and make sure valves in and out of bottom and top are open. Let me know what you find, or if water from pressure relief valve is not hot either.

That pipe is connected to something called the T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve. The pipe that connects to the valve should be run to a drain line so that the water goes somewhere other than all over the floor, but often it just ends a couple of feet from the valve. It's possible the valve has opened because the pressure in the tank is over its limit, but more likely it's the valve's fault. If the new heater was supplied without a T&P, the installer may have used the one from your old heater. Over time the spring inside the valve weakens. Then it can't hold the pressure from the new heater properly. A new valve is under $10 at home improvement stores or larger hardware stores. It just screws into the water heater, so it's simple to replace it if you have a pipe wrench. Turn off the water into the heater and remove the old valve. Use Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads of the new valve (the store will sell that too), tighten it into the heater, then turn the water back on. That should end your leak. If it doesn't and the T&P valve still opens, you'll need to have a plumber check the water pressure in your home.

Hi jeake9,

Yes, you are correct it sounds like the pressure relief valve. It is an important safety device that lets water out of the water heater when temp/pressure exceed the limit set on the valve. It did its job good.

Now the important part is to change out the valve and try to diagnose why it tripped. Odds are the water temperature was too hot AND the relief valve couldn't close because of mineral deposit build up.

Replace the relief valve and turn the water heater down for starters.


Please rate this response and Good Luck, Phil