Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer Logo
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
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After cycle ends and spins and drains...the washer fills up with about 5 inches water over night. Why?

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  • Master 998 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 06, 2009
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Replace the water inlet valves please note the color of the wire to each terminal

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  • Master 1,273 Answers
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You have a solenoid valve leaking by. A solenoid valve is just a fancy name for an electrically controlled valve that is either open or closed. Next time you finish a load for the night, close off one of the valves at the wall to the washer. If there is no water the next morning, you found the leaking side. Trace that hose to the washer, and disconnect it. Where the hose connects to the washer is a blue threaded plastic piece, which is the back side of the solenoid. Unplug your washer. Remove the back panel, and remove the solenoid. You can try and dissect the valve until you get to the diaphragm and clean it, or just replace it with a new one. My experience has been that it is easier to just replace it. Any appliance parts supply house will have your part.
Best regards, --W/D-- Please feel free to rate this solution --thanx!

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  • Master 5,911 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 06, 2009
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You either have a defective water inlet valve, or a defective pressure switch. An easy way to determine is to unplug the washer. If the washer stops filling, the pressure switch is faulty. If the washer continues to fill, you have an inlet valve problem.

To access both components, you simply remove the top panel of the washer. Locate the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. The water inlet valve will be located in the left rear of the washer, as viewed from the front (this is where the fill hoses connect to). The pressure switch will be located in the right rear of the washer, is round, usually brown in color and has several electrical connections.

The water inlet valve can become clogged with sediment causing the internal diaphragm of the valve to not seat properly. This can cause leak-by. If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water this can be a common problem.

If you have to replace the valve, all you have to do is turn off the water supply and disconnect the fill hoses. Remove any dispenser hoses and the mounting screw(s) and the valve comes out. You can attempt to clean the valve by submerging it in a 50/50 solution of distilled vinegar and water to see if you can dissolve any sediment. Do not submerse the electrical connections, though. Allow to soak for 30 minutes, then rinse with hot water. This may or may not solve your problem. If you are going to go the route of removng the valve, it may be wise to simply replace it, rather that possibly repeating these steps twice. Just a thought...

The pressure switch comes out even easier. A couple of electrical connections and mounting screw(s) are the only thing that hold it in place.

Replacement parts can be purchased at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any quesitons, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful

PS An easy way to remove excess water from the tub (so, you don't flood your floor) is to remove the drain hose from the stand pipe at the wall. Then, using a wet/dry shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain line. This will drain anything in the wash tub.

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Hello , here is the fix-your drain hose is placed to low in the drain line in the wall, it can not be placed in water or it will siphon the water out of your washer into the drain pipe and it wont stop until it hits air. try pulling your drain hose up and out of the drain and get a zip tie or cable and tie it to one of the water valves by the drain pipe placing the end of the drain hose about 5-6 inches inside the drain pipe. Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck it will work.

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GE Top Load Washer WLSR2000G3WW~smells like burning and wont drain

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

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Front loead washer will not spin/rinse,

First, make sure that you do not overload the machine.
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
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