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Y wire is going to LP switch with 24 v and it is not returning with 24 v to Contractor , how will I know if the switch is doing what it supposed to do ? and my pressure is low?, do I need to call professional to recharge the pressure ?
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Most gas stoves come from the factory ready for natural gas service,as most of the world is piped for natural gas when gas is used as a fuel,but they are easily converted to LP ( liquified petroleum) gas by installing a conversion kit. As this gas is very explosive I wouldn't recommend a homeowner tackling this job themselves,but hire your gas supplier to do the conversion or a licensed contractor.
The added expense of hiring a licensed contractor is far cheaper than loosing your home and possibly serious injury or ***** to family members because of a botched conversion job.
First off you need to make certain that he is going to jackhammer the old driveway and remove it from your property. I guess before that, be sure to get a reputable contractor to do it. Check with BBB if you would like to.. Then jackhammer and remove. Be certain that they are replacing the driveway with the proper thickness. I believe it is 4". They will lay down 4"x 4" wire sitting on little blocks called "adobe" blocks to suspend the wire off of the bottom.Be certain that they put crack reliefs in when they are finishing concrete. Those are the indentations that they put in due to the expansion and contraction of the concrete so it will crack in the indentations instead of on the slab. Be certain that they form up the driveway before the wire. They put 18 or 24" stakes in the ground and then nail the wood formers to the stakes. This is what hold the concrete in. They will pour it in one day then trowel it, install the expansion reliefs and then they will take a soft hair 24" pushbroom and give it a light brush finish. All of the edges will be troweled and rolled over nicely. Be certain that he doesn't over order on concrete. Basically it is length x width x depth 27 cu ft. = 1 cu. yard. There will be a small portion over to allow for any problems. This is normal. The next day they will come back, pull the forms and your good to go. Be sure to get 3 estimates. Good Luck!
It's newly installed. Why won't the installer troubleshoot and repair?
Communication line is just that. It will communicate via millivots or milliamperes. Voltage present must be induced, directly or indirectly. Shielding will help if it's grounded but if the installer did not ground then there's your problem. Higher voltage lines in contact with the communication lines will induce voltage into your comm line. Time to get a light and start looking for some of these things if you can't get your contractor / installer back out.
New installation should be covered by your contractors. Maybe BBB or local TV station (although I hate all the individuals involved) could help. You might try asking how long the contractors intend to stall before you are forced to resort to the media.
To answer your question, the common wire should be at ground potential. That means zero volts relative to your local ground (cold water pipe or other provision. If you can't trace it, the contractor should be able to. If other circuits are normal, it's in that line which should be off of it's own breaker.
I can't tell anymore than that without seeing your entrance.
Hi, with just a heater and no air, the red would be the hot wire which goes to the R terminal on thermostat and clear which are normally white will go to W on the stat. If you have a heat only stat, it should have only the R and W connections. If a central heat and air stat, wire it the same, but you may need a third wire for the fan if it is forced air. You would be better off running down to the hardware store and getting a 24 volt heat only stat. I don't know what kind of heater you have, but make sure of the control voltage of the unit. Most gas, heat-pumps, gas & electric are 24 volts ac. Some heat only units are milivolts. Anyway, connect the 2 as I have said. Before you wire the 2 wires to the stat, touch the 2 together and watch to see if it fires up. It may have a delay, but should fire right up if the heater is working right. No danger of shock as this is very low voltage, nothing to worry about when testing. If it is a central type gas furnace, the voltage will be 24 volts. Please rate me on this as I know you will be kind. I chose not to charge you for my time on this thread. Keep me posted. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, & Heating Contractor
Hi, the wiring terminations are near consistent with a 24 volt ac furnace and I will tell you how a 24 volt stat is terminated. RC= 24 volts jumped to RH for red wire only. This would be for a central system with air and heat. W=white for heat, G= Green for Fan, and Y = yellow for cooling. I do believe it is wired correctly for your application. Please verify your units model and serial number and give me a clue as to what is taking place, and did you change the thermostat or make a part change? Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, & Heating Contractor.
Sounds like two problems. Not enough combustion air or a defective high temperature limit switch. You enclosure may not be getting enough outside air to properly sustain combustion. If the unit has a rollout thermostat it may be defective and stopping everything.
If there is still no sound, you probably hooked up the unit's wires wrong. Try switching the wires coming off of the back of your head unit so that the wire that is supposed to be connected to the amp turn on in your factory harness isn't connected to the antenna lead or something like that.
I don't know what the Pioneer wires look like, on my Sony there are two blue wires, one with a white stripe on it and one just plain blue. The wire with the white stripe on is the one that should be connected to the amp turn on in the factory harness.
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