I need a switch for my grinder , switch part number is FA4-12/2BD. YOUR HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Its a grinder problem but to fix this you need detailed technical knowledge and experience. It can be one of three things; 1. The Grinder has an inline protective sensor that sits on outside of grinder and can go open circuit. Test by bypassing but do not run unit without this. 2. The motor brushes can be worn out. Unfortunately Miele does not sell new brushes and so you have to replace grinder unless you can fabricate your own. The symptoms of this are a gradual change in grinder speed. 3. The grinder is burn out in which case you must replace unit.
So if this was a sudden fault then its 1 or 3. Regards

2 wires are not needed to use they are the wires of an supression capacitor on the switch then there are 2 wires from your power cable and 2 that goes to your motor that 4 you only you have to use you can also connect the 2 wires from the s-capacitor with te wires on the motor together thats is how its also correct, (but best is to remove it because its only for suppression for FM ukw radio signals and everybody has DAB+ and the change to have short-circuit is reduced.

Sears Craftsman is usually easy as Sears Parts Direct has diagrams and part numbers.
However your switch number 31919063033 is no longer available. I would suggest checking out online places like Digikey or Newark for a switch that will work for you. As long as the Voltage, amperage and number of poles and will fit in the space provided you should be OK.
Link to Sears Parts Direct.
Searching Model For Search Your Way 31919063 2
Link to Newark
Switches Relays 60 674 Products Found
Link to Digikey
Electronic Components

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Inside your grinder either the stationary switch or the rotating assembly that actuates the stationary switch has failed.

Download this pdf file:
http://www.baldor.com/pdf/literature/CA506_0806_WEB.pdf Then go to page 9

The rotating assembly is this part number: (most common failure)
34RS2060SP

You must remove the end plate / cap to change this part.

The statonary switch rarely fails unless the rotating assembly damaged the contacts when the rotating assemble failed. When the rotating assembly fails you often find a spring and flyweight loose inside the grinder during disassembly. Should your stationary switch have failed try and get a number off of it so you can get the right switch. Otherwise you have to use NEMA code / Body type numbers.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Call the Sears Craftsman help line they will have the parts you need

Fixed it Myself

Red wire --> Cap1
White wire --> Cap2
Blue wire --> PWR Switch
Brown wire ---> Thermal Protection Switch

A Dewalt 4-1/2 inch hand grinder that normally uses 110-120 volts? Probably fried the armature windings.

Check the switch (Out of grinder), and see if it has continuity. (OHMS test with multimeter) Pretty rare thing, but perhaps the switch took the brunt of the overload. If this is the case replace the switch.

(After checking continuity on armature, and field windings, of course. If either one is bad, a new switch won't help)

Which Model Number is it, and perhaps I can find an exploded drawing for you.

I see bench grinders for about ten or twenty dollars at the flea markets all the time. They also have the $$ grinding wheels on them.

Go to;
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=152.211521&productCategoryId=0721100&brandId=0247&modelName=GRINDER&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=P0410025&pop=flush


and click on "View full size" at the top.

I would need the exact model number and serial number to help but the brush number is 22-18-0710 and there could be a couple different switches. Either give the ser number (the alpha code) or you can go direct to Milwaukeeelectrictool.com and type in the model number 6140 on the page for the breakdown. it might be easier to let me do it. I worked there for 17 years and if you can't get the alpha code look at the switch and I would need a good description of it