Question about Hoover Washing Machines
I have switched it off a couple of times and run a number cycles but it still has the E20 error and won't empty on a drain and spin cycle!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: error codes
My Kenmore H3 stops working, starts beeping and flashing "F9", but it only happens when I'm washing a heavy load like jeans or bath towels. I think it gets off-balance and I have found that if I hit "pause" once and then hold in "start" briefly it somehow resets itself and works fine from then on till the load is completely done.
Posted on Feb 22, 2008
SOURCE: spinning cycle
Keeping in mind that the soap & bleach gets dispensed into your wash on the
second to last rinse cycle and that most all rinse cycles are in cold
water. Is your cold water valve screen plugged causing your washer to
rinse poorly? Are you using the HE detergent? If not maybe the
washer is sudsing up to much and having a hard time rinsing all the
suds and bleach out and leaving the clothes soapy.
Fill the washer up with no clothes in it on a cold/cold wash setting does it take a long time to fill the washer up? Also when it is full and agitating is there suds in the washer?
Last suggestion is if the drain is hose is a lot higher than the top of the washer it might have a hard time draining out all of the soap water before the next load
Posted on Mar 23, 2008
The washer drew half a tub of water on the "Bulky items" cycle, and stopped. All the lights on the cycle dial light up and flash, the machine beeps and the me error message in the "estimated time remaining" field is "Ld". I've tried to shut the machine down and change the cycle to "drain and spin" but it will not agitate, won't drain or spin.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
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Posted on Aug 22, 2009
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