Acer aspire z1620 no display on screen - Acer Computers & Internet

SOURCE: Acer Aspire 3100 series. Display screen getting dark

This is such a user error. I had the same problem on my 3100-1718. It was as simple as holding down the Fn key and using the left and right arrow keys to change the brightness... I am a goofball for ever letting this stay dark for a month !

joecoolvette

• 5660 Answers
• Posted on Jul 04, 2012

SOURCE: Acer Aspire Timeline AS3810T-8737 - No screen display. How can I fix?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834115653

Let's diagnose, and see if the problem is the graphics chipset, on the motherboard, the video cable, or inside the Display Assembly itself.

[ Display Assembly is LCD Module for Acer.

LCD Module general description;

1) LCD Panel, (LCD screen),
2) LCD Bezel, (Plastic thin frame in front of LCD screen),
3) LCD Cover, (Top cover of laptop when it is closed, and over the LCD screen),

4) Camera, (Web camera)
5) LED backlighting,
6) LCD Panel Screen Frame
7) LCD Panel Brackets, (2)
8) Left Hinge, and Right Hinge

Orienting you with Acer nomenclature, as I will also be posting a Service Manual, in PDF file form, in a link.

LCD Panel Cable is Video Cable ]

A) Laptop OFF, monitor OFF, attach a VGA monitor to the laptop.
Goes to the VGA connector on the left rear side of the laptop.

This is a basic example of a VGA Cable, and VGA connector,
(On the laptop a VGA connector is known as a VGA port )

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VGA_connector

For the external VGA monitor you can use a CRT type, (Looks like a small TV), or a flat LCD screen monitor, if it has a VGA cable.

B) Turn the monitor on. If a CRT type allow it to warm up.
Turn the laptop on.

By default the external VGA monitor should have a display on it.
IF not;

There are at least three display options available;
1) Internal monitor of laptop ONLY
2) Internal monitor of laptop, AND external VGA monitor
3) External VGA monitor ONLY

Press, and hold down on the Fn key. (Fn key is second key over from the left, on the bottom row)
At the SAME TIME tap once on the F5 key.

The F5 key is the Display Toggle-Over key.

Still no? Hold the Fn key down again, and tap once more on the F5 key.

Still no? You have a bad graphics chipset. Usually means motherboard replacement.
{ Unless the graphics chipset is loose, in it's mounting on the motherboard. (Mounting = BGA surface mount)

If so the graphics chipset may be good, and it needs to be reflowed. The solder joints under the chipset need to be re-heated again, so the solder will reflow, and make good solder joints once more }

Good display on external VGA monitor?
Means the video cable is the problem, (LCD Panel Cable), or inside the Display Assembly. (LCD Module)

The video cable connects to the motherboard, under the Keyboard area to the upper left corner, routes up through the left Hinge, and into the Display Assembly, where it connects to the back/bottom of the LCD screen.

Just through normal opening, and closing of the laptop through the years, the video cable's sheath may become pinched, (Left Hinge), and pulled on when the laptop is opened.

Or worn against. Means if the sheath of the cable is pinched, and pulled on, so may the tiny little wires inside the sheath of the video cable. Stretched/Broken.

You have to disassemble the laptop far enough, so that you can remove the video cable, (LCD Panel Cable), and visually inspect it.

ANY signs of damage may mean damage to the tiny wires inside.
Even if no outward visual signs of damage are apparent, it would behoove you to have the video cable checked out.

Have a shop check the wires inside the video cable for continuity.
Make sure there are no breaks in the wires.

It could also just be a loose connection. Connection is loose on the motherboard side, or LCD Panel connection.
It is pretty apparent if the connection is loose on the motherboard side. Just needs to be plugged in tight. When it is plugged in tightly, it looks it.

It is not so apparent on the LCD Panel side. (LCD screen)

Connector is VERY small for one thing. It also doesn't take very much of a loose connection, at the connector. Hard to see. Best method, is to just to physically make sure the video cable is plugged in tightly, to the connector on the LCD screen. (LCD Panel)

Video cable is in good repair, and there were no loose connections?
(You can use the laptop to see, before you put everything back together)

Then the problem is the LCD screen. (LCD Panel)
It uses a series of LED's as a Backlight. They are built into the LCD screen.
There is NO screen Inverter. The LED backlighting does not require a screen Inverter.

Therefore the only method is to just replace the LCD screen.

http://www.screencountry.com/index.php?section=products&model=ASPIRE%203810T-8737%20TIMELINE&brand=Acer&size=

Just an example, no advertising. You may find a better price, from a reputable dealer also.

More information;

Pictorial guide to replacing an LCD Panel, for an Acer Aspire Timeline 3810T Notebook PC,

http://www.insidemylaptop.com/replace-broken-screen-acer-aspire-3810t-laptop/

Remove ALL power. Remove the AC adapter (Charger), and Battery.

Suggest you buy, and use an ESD wrist strap. Average cost is around $3 to $6. Connect it's alligator clip to a good ground source.
One example,

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103245

[ I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an open, empty desktop computer.
You can also set a large metal serving tray on your work table, and connect to it. (Unpainted)
Or a large metal knickknack. (Unpainted ]

Use a multi-compartment container for the various screws you will remove. Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.
SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws. Advise DO NOT mix them up.

A) In Step 1.
The Screw Covers are made of a synthetic rubber. They have a type of rubber cement on the bottom of them, that holds them to the screw head.
I use a computer pick to remove them. You may have a similar tool, or substitute with your choice.

Just ease up on one bottom edge, and pick up. If you store the screw covers correctly, and remove properly, you can more than likely reuse them again. I just lightly stick them on the LCD Bezel.
(The thin plastic frame in front of the LCD screen)

Then remove all the Philips head screws. The LCD Bezel pops off.
It has locking tabs on the outside edges. The inside edge of the Display Cover has matching locking latches.

Just go to the inside edge of the LCD Bezel, as shown in Step 2, and ease it away from the LCD screen. It flexes. When the top/middle of the bezel is flexed away from the LCD screen, a little, ease a finger under it, and go to one side. Now go to the other side.

Once you start working down one of the sides, the bezel should start to pop off.

[IF you are keeping the LCD screen, and not replacing it, WATCH your fingernails! They will scratch the LCD screen.

Use computer gloves, and/or protect the LCD screen with a thick piece of construction paper. I cut a thick piece of construction paper to fit the inner opening of the LCD Bezel ]

B) You have to remove the Keyboard to remove the Upper Cover. You have to remove the Upper Cover, to access the video cable's motherboard connector.

The Keyboard Cable stays attached to the Keyboard. It removes from the motherboard connector.
The Keyboard Cable is a FFC. Flat Flex Cable. It has NO connector on the end.

The motherboard connector that the Keyboard Cable attaches to, is a ZIF connector. Zero Insertion Force.
It is made of two pieces, but DOES NOT come completely apart, in order to remove the Keyboard Cable.

There is a larger rectangular piece on the bottom. This is the BODY.
There is a smaller rectangular piece that goes across the top. This is the LOCKING BAR.

The Locking Bar moves away from the Body. Slid up towards the LCD screen.
It ONLY moves about 1mm to 2mm. That is a little larger than 1/32nd of an Inch, to 1/16th of an Inch.

IF, the Locking Bar comes off of the Body, it is broken.
If it is broken you are looking at -> motherboard replacement.
This is why I am being so detailed.

Pictorial guide using an Acer Aspire 4810TZG,

http://www.insidemylaptop.com/disassemble-aspire-4810t-4810tz-4810tzg-4410-laptop/

In Step 16 you see the two brown tabs, of the brown Locking Bar.
One on the Left, one on the Right. These little tabs are all you see.

In Step 17 you see the Locking Bar moved up away, from the Body.
Now the FFC (Keyboard Cable) can be gently pulled out.
NOTE the direction it is installed. HAS to go back in the same direction. Twisted Keyboard Cable, or not.

[Flat contact pins in Keyboard Cable, MUST realign with the SAME contacts, in the motherboard's connector, as it was originally installed from the factory ]

Steps 12 through 14 show you more on removing the Keyboard.
The latches you need to depress, where they are, and how it's done.

Also shows rolling the Keyboard over, so that the Keyboard Cable can be disconnected. (Have to disconnect cable before you can remove the Keyboard, 'natch )

Also watch lifting the Keyboard straight up. There are tabs on the side if the Keyboard towards you, and they can be broken off. Lift the Keyboard at an angle, gently move towards the LCD screen, then lift straight up, and roll over on the Upper Cover.

Link to free Service Manual,

http://www.tim.id.au/blog/tims-laptop-service-manuals/#toc-acer

On this page drop down to the 'paragraph' that starts with Aspire 1200. (1200 in blue)
Go down to the 4th line, and left-click on -> 3810T

This is a PDF file. The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.
After you click on the file name (3810T) it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

SOURCE: All in one Acer Aspire Z1620 no video.

when computer start you have image on monitor?