Roper Dryer I( have a 2002 Roper Dryer, model: rex6634rqo, and I'm looking for instructions to remove front cover in order to replace the belt?

If the model number is correct, replacing a drive belt involves the following steps:


1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.

2. Remove the two screws that were under the lint screen and lift the top panel.

3. Unplug the door switch connector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.

4. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.

5. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. Release the belt tension, by pushing the idler pulley (tensioner) to the right (away from the belt) and remove the old belt from around the drum.

If the belt is broken, this may cause the idler pulley (tensioner) to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To install a new belt (if required) and re-install the pulley, follow these steps:

1. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the previous belt).

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and push the wheel to the RIGHT while pulling the belt over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for WHIRLPOOL and refer to diagram H (This model Amana is manufactured by Whirlpool).

Replacement parts (if required) can be ordered on line at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number for a replacement belt is 341241. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also inlcude helpful exploded view diagrams that can help you locate and properly indentify the parts you may need.

NOTE: If you still have the teflon glide type tensioner, Whirlpool recommends you replace it with a conventional roller type idler pulley. The teflon type tensioners caused premature wear to the drive belt. The part number is 691366.


Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws.

NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them. If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sounds like you have a broken drum belt.
If you have to replace your drive belt and if you have a front loading machine.
First you will need to unplug your dryer from the electric.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley.
While you have the drum out, I would also recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
If the belt is not broken, then I would check to see if the timer switch is working properly, if not then you may need to replace it.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

replace your t-fuse again but also chekc to see if the vent going outside is restricted. if hte vent is smashed or clogged the heat has nowhere to go. i would say that is your issue. clean your vent before you change he t-fuse.

1. unplug dryer
2. popoff the top off
3. take front off (unscrew)
now you can get access to the belt look in bottom of dryer there is a giude wheel for the belt
4. place belt around drum and pulley make sure you add tenstion
5. replace front and top

Thank you for useing Fixya

is belt disconnected? Is belt broken? Will dryer rotate manually? if so ,

I suspect that the belt broke. order a new belt Home depot has a good parts service or try other local appliance places. You will have to disconnect power first, Remove front panel to access drum Dont forget to unplug door switch there should be a plug front top right, in the rear on the bottom there is a motor and an idler/tensioner. install the new belt and under tensioner Yes the path will seem awkward and re assemble. Also now is the time to vacuum lint out

Remove the filter from the top>
Remove the 2 phillips screws from the top (filter housing)
Use a putty knife to pop the top by compressing the clips
on either side of the top between the front and top.
NOTE: Once the top is up remove the screws inside
to get the front off and LIFT the front up
before pulling towards you so the bottom clips
won't break.Get the lid switch disconnected and set the front aside.
Oil the rollers and idler, vacuum out the lint.
The new belt goes rib side down on the tub. The idler mounts like the one pictured
on bottom right of these dryer belt routing pics:



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

generic maytag dryer belt replacement

type 1:older models by Maytag with lintscreen under door

• unplug dryer
• remove 2 screws from under front panel
• tilt front panel up from the bottom and unclip top
• remove door switch wires
• set front panel aside
• remove front drum retainer 2 screws each side

type 2:newer models by whirlpool lint screen in top cover

• unplug dryer
• remove lint screen
• remove 2 screws under lint screen
• with putty knife or other blunt blade
  unclip spring clips at front corners of top panel
• tilt front panel up
• remove 1 screw each side of front panel 1/2 way from top
• remopve door switch wires
• tilt front panel down and unclip
• set front panel aside

all

• withdraw drum forward
• examine drum rollers for wear
  if worn or locked replace in pairs
• examine felts and nylon glides(if fitted) for wear
  if worn replace
• examin case floor for tensioner
  (sometimes broken belt ends pull the tensioner out of place its easy to see the slots on the case floor for the 2 feet and spring, looks like a power socket)
• loop new belt around drum at wear mark of old belt
• insert drum
• loop belt around motor pulley
• pull tensioner to end of travel against spring
• loop belt around tensioner
• relax tensioner
• rotate drum by hand to make sure belt wont jump off

reassemble in reverse order

Put the back panel back, and hope you havent done permanent damage
the back does not come off roper dryers for service
the front does
the back panel serves solely as a mounting point for important fixtures
there is no reset button
there are thermal fuses, if the thermal fuse, mounted on the exhaust duct or fan housing has failed, it must be replaced, but they are not expensive
look like this to access the dryer mechanism

unplug dryer
remove lint filter
remove 2 screws under lint filter
with putty knife or other blunt blade, depress spring catches at front corners of top cover
raise front cover
remove 1 screw each side of front panel 1/3 from top
remove door switch wires
remove front panel set aside
test all thermostats heater and thermal fuse with ohmmeter, remove 1 wire test for conduct replace wire, no conduct replace
the local parts store will have the part, labelled whirlpool, ~$14 for thermal fuse, ~$40 if heater

examine rear panel reinstall any thing that is dismounted
while the dryer is open
Clean the lint out of fan, fan housing, ducts
airflow blockage is the 99% cause of thermal fuse blowing, some lint always gets past the lint screen

put back back on with top off remove screws in top corners of front panel remove bottom panel and screws holding blower/lint screen housing on remove door springs remove screws on bottom corners of front belt is probably lying in bottom

The dryer only has the 1 belt that drives the drum. Shock Hazard Warning! Remove the dryer from its power source before accessing internal components.
Look for an obstruction in the blower which is attached to the front of the motor. Look for a foreign object stuck between the drum and bulkheads. Inspect for a broken belt. Inspect all drum rollers for free operation. Inspect idler pulley on rear of motor for free rotation with belt removed. Inspect drive pulley on rear of motor. All this can be done through the front of the dryer by removing the front panel enclosure.

Hope this helps!