Question about Manitowoc Refrigerators

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Continues to make ice when grill cover is off, then trips on safety limit #2 when replaced. condensor has been fully cleaned

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If this is a combination gas grill with the accessory fridge mounted in the cabinet, then the issue is that once you put the grill cover on, you are preventing proper airflow/circulation needed to keep the fridge's compressor ventilated enough to keep operating.

Try leaving the grill cover off and move the grill/fridge out of direct sunlight, as the thermal heating of the cabinet isn't helping the fridge get enough air circulation to help it (the compressor) run cool enough to keep from tripping the thermal overload sensor (thermistor or Klicxon themal protection device) mounted on the compressor.

This device prevents the compressor from extreme heating that can cause the compressor have a catastrophic failure.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Ice in the bottom of the freezer


Ok here is a generic response without a model number.

One of 2 things have happened. Either the inlet water valve to the icemaker has failed as noted by ice blocks in the ice bin or

Your evaporator drain is clogged.

  • Unplug the unit remove the freezer contents and do a manual defrost by directing an external fan at the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess so be prepaired)
  • Remove the rear fiber-board compressor and condensor coil cover and locate the compartment drain tube in the drip pan. Make sure the end of the tube is NOT blocked. Clean as necessary.
  • After the 2 hour period... use vacuum forced air OUT pressure on the end of the drain hose in the drip pan. Have a 2nd person listen for airflow in the freezer compartment. This will float out any debris from the compartment drain funnel.
  • Clean the condensor coils and fan while the unit is unplugged but do NOT use anything sharp.
If you can not get air-flow up through the compartment drain funnel underneath the evaporator coils you will have to remove the access panel and remove the debris from the drain funnel.

Return the unit to normal service after cleaning. Watch for more ice build up after a week. No ice blocks after a week... no worries. Ice under the ice-maker... replace the inlet water valve due to it bypassing water when in the OFF mode.

If you need model specific information.... I need your exact make and model number in any response.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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1 Answer

The dryer is not drying. i dont know where the element is or where to even buy a new one. not sure it also could be the thermostat i think


More commonly yet is 1/2 of a 220 volt breaker tripped. Fully and firmly turn the 220 breaker OFF, then on again. If not FULLY off, it may not reset a tripped breaker. Many dryers now are close to the limits on the heating side of the circuit. The motor and controllers are typically on the other 1/2 of the 220, and continue to work.

If this is not the issue, the element is accessed from the back. If you are not CERTAIN about your abilities around high voltage, you should stay out, you can die easily. If you are OKAY, grab your metere and look for opens at the high temprature safety switches. Look for discolored wiring connections. Poor connections overheat and distort and burn wires. Replace both sides of a burned connection, and the wires BACK to a point that there is no heat damage, or quick failure.

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1 Answer

I have a thin twin stacking whirlpool washer/dryer. The high limit switch is kicking off the element within 2 mins of running. So heating element heats up red hot, then clicks off after 2 mins. I have...


I think you are on the right track with a faulty high limit switch. When i serviced these units we always replaced the operating thermostat and the high limit switch together they came in a kit. The operating thermostat in theory should never let it get hot enough to trip the high limit switch, which is really just a safety backup for the operating thermostat. Get the kit and replace both, and also make sure your exhaust vent going outside has good flow at the outside vent,a restricted vent system will cause similar issues.. Good Luck

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1 Answer

The clock works but the oven does not heat up


Hello George, welcome to fixya.

The symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. This typically occur's following a self clean cycle. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly. **Turn off the 40amp breaker at your service panel or sub-panel in the home before attempting any service...safety first**

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. It will look like the image below...52bc5ab.jpg

Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)

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1 Answer

My whirlpool fridge is hot, took the cover off of the coils inside freezer, look ok. Took back cover off of the back and the compressor is hot


Hi jason;
Shall take it that you have a Side by Side setup? If so with rear cover off, when you start it does the cooling fan come on beside compressor? Also remove front grille and clean front condensor coils, full dust and hair all problems can happen. (like blocking of car radiator). Try these if fan doesn't work, replace.

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1 Answer

Fan and condensor are on but no air volume is coming out.


If air volume inside is dropping could be icing up or jsut a bad fan motor. Check to see if your indoor coil is clean. You have a goodman unit and they have a time delay relay for fan control. They go out quite often. If problem continues call aservice tech for free estimate. There is only so far you can go without knowledge of he system. russ

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1 Answer

GE Refrigerator- Freezer coil ices up and the F/F gets warm


It is not defrosting obviously. Check heater and defrost limit for continuity. Defrost limit is small round can-looking device; it must be cold to check accurately. If anything shows no continuity then it needs to be replaced. If continuity ok then replace defrost control. Please contact me if you need further help or leave feedback if appropriate as that is how I get paid. Thanks for letting me help you!

Nov 30, 2008 | Miele KFN8762SDED Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Vacuum condensor


open both the freezer and refrigerator doors, there are 4 screws at the top of the door frame that extend into the grill covering above the doors where the condenser is housed.  Remove all 4 screws, pull the grill open and then use your home vacuum to clean the dust from the condenser coil (it'll be obvious that it needs it).  Close the grill back, replace the screws and the message should go away.

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