Question about Toshiba Televison & Video
Check input or source if ok check picture set up
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No picture...Sound is fine.
There are no tubes, except the picture tube, to replace.. itys a solid state set. your problem is most likly thefiliment circuiut on the crt board, or maybe a verticle problem. I would say with A set of this ventage, will most likly cost to repair more then the sets worth.
Posted on Aug 28, 2006
ok i'm goin to need more info about your problem. you stated fuses and didn't say the location numbers of the fuses. Also, have you rechecked your fuses to see if they are all still good? 3 fuses sounds like more then one problem. once you tell us your loc#'s of your fuses, we can look into your problems.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
SOURCE: I have a Sanyo LCD
hi,doe sthe screen of your TV lights up?during power on?if not then there might be a problem on the inverter board and the backlight lamp of the monitor .The lamp is a cold cathode bulb it requires a high voltage supply from the inverter board in order to light up.just like any other bulb this lamp has a limited life span more or less 2 years of continues lit.The inverter board is a high voltage board the power input of this board is 24volts DC and the output is 200volts AC.The terminal input of this board or connectors must be check because of high voltage corrosion and loose connections always happen that leads to the mal function of the display or screen failure just like what happen to your TV.
Backlight lamp is installed at the top and bottom of the screen you need to open the back cover of your TV to check up the lamp.(make sure to unplug the TV before proceeding)..check first the test point that I mentioned then post back for your findings then will proceed to further trouble shooting...GOOD LUCK!
Posted on Jan 04, 2011
If you already replaced a new inverter board and T-con board and the problem is still there.Try to play the video on the DVD,if the video is OK check the cable connection and try to run auto scan.
If the problem is still there check the input supply of the system board or main board it should have 5vdc and 12vdc,if it is OK replace the system board.
Review this manual page 4-1 abnormal display http://www.scribd.com/doc/36875894/Olevia-232-S12-SM
I hope this solution will be helpful.Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Apr 17, 2011
SOURCE: I have a MATAG DRYER
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
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Posted on Sep 08, 2011
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