So here is the deal. The ref Des F2 means that it is in fact a fuse, and chances are since the number next to the F is 2 that means that there is a good chance there is an F1. As it turns out, the inverterboard in this monitor has to identical backlight circuits. One powers the backlight at the top of the screen and one at the bottom. The bottom circuit had the F1 fuse. As it turns out the fuse was fine and I could clearly read the letter N on top of the fuse. As it turns out, the fuse was made by littelfuse and the N indicates that the fuse is a 2A, 63V fuse. I purchased a bunch from digi-key and it works like a charm. I would NOT recommend shorting the pads that the fuse was once connected to, together. The fuse could have popped for a reason, and shorting the fuse could cause other components to fail.
Again F2 is a Ref Des not a value. The value of the fuse is written on it. If it is anything like my monitor, there were two fuses for the two circuits and it had the Value N.
N is a fuse made by littelfuse in a 1206 package. It is a 2A, 63V fuse. You can order it from places like digi-key.com.So here is the deal. The ref Des F2 means that it is in fact a fuse, and chances are since the number next to the F is 2 that means that there is a good chance there is an F1. As it turns out, the inverterboard in this monitor has to identical backlight circuits. One powers the backlight at the top of the screen and one at the bottom. The bottom circuit had the F1 fuse. As it turns out the fuse was fine and I could clearly read the letter N on top of the fuse. As it turns out, the fuse was made by littelfuse and the N indicates that the fuse is a 2A, 63V fuse. I purchased a bunch from digi-key and it works like a charm. I would NOT recommend shorting the pads that the fuse was once connected to, together. The fuse could have popped for a reason, and shorting the fuse could cause other components to fail.
Again F2 is a Ref Des not a value. The value of the fuse is written on it. If it is anything like my monitor, there were two fuses for the two circuits and it had the Value N.
N is a fuse made by littelfuse in a 1206 package. It is a 2A, 63V fuse. You can order it from places like digi-key.com.
Sure do...it is F1457CT-ND. I find using digi-key's online site is much easier than trying to use their catalog.Sure do...it is F1457CT-ND. I find using digi-key's online site is much easier than trying to use their catalog.
I have this same issue with a Viewsonic VP201b. I checked the same fuse as in the VX900 and it seems to be bad. The fuse is also labeled F2, however the one in the VP201b says FN on top of it. Does anyone know the value or part number for this?I have this same issue with a Viewsonic VP201b. I checked the same fuse as in the VX900 and it seems to be bad. The fuse is also labeled F2, however the one in the VP201b says FN on top of it. Does anyone know the value or part number for this?
I had the same problem on my VX900. Replaced F2 and it works fine now. I have spare fuses (FN = 2A 63V) if anyone is interested I can send some for $5.
I had the same problem on my VX900. Replaced F2 and it works fine now. I have spare fuses (FN = 2A 63V) if anyone is interested I can send some for $5.
I had the same problem with my VX900. Removed the backlight inverter and then read on-line comments about fuses. How can I tell if it is the whole board or fuses? Thanks!I had the same problem with my VX900. Removed the backlight inverter and then read on-line comments about fuses. How can I tell if it is the whole board or fuses? Thanks!
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Bpislife, do you happen to have the digi-key part number for the fuse? I downloaded their catalog but it's a bit daunting for people not well-versed in electronics.
bpislife, thanks for the reference number. Gosh, those fuses are SOO small. I tried checking continuity across F1 and F2 with an ohmmeter; sometimes I get continuity, sometimes not, depending on exactly where I wiggle the probes around. In any event, I don't think I would be able to change the fuse even if I were sure that was the problem. I've never done surface-soldering before, and especially on parts so small. Are you an electronics technician? I'm still not even sure that the inverter is the problem with my monitor and not the CCFLs. I hate to spend money replacing the inverter if that might not even fix it. bpislife, thanks for the reference number. Gosh, those fuses are SOO small. I tried checking continuity across F1 and F2 with an ohmmeter; sometimes I get continuity, sometimes not, depending on exactly where I wiggle the probes around. In any event, I don't think I would be able to change the fuse even if I were sure that was the problem. I've never done surface-soldering before, and especially on parts so small. Are you an electronics technician? I'm still not even sure that the inverter is the problem with my monitor and not the CCFLs. I hate to spend money replacing the inverter if that might not even fix it.
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I replace the surface mounted fuse with axial-lead fuse, PICO fuse made by LITTLEFUSE. You can try using a 1 Ohms 1/2 watt flame proof resistor in place of the fuse, if the resistor get real hot and burnt up then it may have shorted Transistors or transformer. You can get the number of the board and go to www.lcdparts.net to see if he has the inverter board in stock. http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/PICO%20fuse%20by%20Littlefuse/
Check the fuse on the inverter board and also verify it does have have 12vdc feeding the fuse. Worst case will be the lamps, power supply caps look OK?
These have age related problems on the inverter board which lights the 4 bulbs I repair these regularly through ebay. Most common cause is a blown fuse on the inverter board, sometimes that is caused by bad capacitors or transistors. Usually it's just from age and heat. Fuses are marked F1 and F2 and located on each side of the white large plug that feeds the board. These can be checked with continuity meter. Fran
problem is the fuse to the magnatron has blown or the magnatron needs replacing remove the outer cover three or four crosshead screws you'll see a pc board with a white fuse on board try changing it read th fuse value on fuse base don't connect the mains plug with the cover off.
check your power board not the inverter board. Caps, diodes usually go first. get them replaced with a higher voltage capacitor, same value (1000 uF 15v with a 1000 25- 35v is ok)
a fuse is a small glass tube about 3/4" to 1". it is located near the end of the power cord inside the tv. it is located in the power board supply circuit.
there are several reason why fuse blew up.
1. sudden surge current/voltage in your area
2. shorted in either power supply or horizontal deflection circuits.
when replacing fuse, be sure to change it with the same value. but if after replacement has been done and the fuse blew again, there is a short in the circuit as stated in reason no. 2.
refer to a qualified service technician if you are not inclined with this job. good luck!
The inverter board is the DAC-12C024. This is a Delta inverter board Rev A0
same fault on mine. i shorted out the fuse, works fine now.
Anyone know the value of f2?
Thanks
So here is the deal. The ref Des F2 means that it is in fact a fuse, and chances are since the number next to the F is 2 that means that there is a good chance there is an F1. As it turns out, the inverterboard in this monitor has to identical backlight circuits. One powers the backlight at the top of the screen and one at the bottom. The bottom circuit had the F1 fuse. As it turns out the fuse was fine and I could clearly read the letter N on top of the fuse. As it turns out, the fuse was made by littelfuse and the N indicates that the fuse is a 2A, 63V fuse. I purchased a bunch from digi-key and it works like a charm. I would NOT recommend shorting the pads that the fuse was once connected to, together. The fuse could have popped for a reason, and shorting the fuse could cause other components to fail.
Again F2 is a Ref Des not a value. The value of the fuse is written on it. If it is anything like my monitor, there were two fuses for the two circuits and it had the Value N.
N is a fuse made by littelfuse in a 1206 package. It is a 2A, 63V fuse. You can order it from places like digi-key.com.
Sure do...it is F1457CT-ND. I find using digi-key's online site is much easier than trying to use their catalog.
I have this same issue with a Viewsonic VP201b. I checked the same fuse as in the VX900 and it seems to be bad. The fuse is also labeled F2, however the one in the VP201b says FN on top of it. Does anyone know the value or part number for this?
I had the same problem on my VX900. Replaced F2 and it works fine now. I have spare fuses (FN = 2A 63V) if anyone is interested I can send some for $5.
I had the same problem with my VX900. Removed the backlight inverter and then read on-line comments about fuses. How can I tell if it is the whole board or fuses? Thanks!
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