First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
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Fill it with water by hand and see what happens. Tape paper towels in the suspected area. Makes it easier to see. Part 2 ans: so the water is over powering the drain...that sucks. You are right, the valve is probably letting too much water out. I don't know if it is adjustable but I do know it'll probably cost a lot for an itty-bitty brass valve. If money is not a problem replace the valve. If you are a DIY'er, I'd try to use some sort of clamp on the hose leading into the dispenser and close it just enough to slow the flow down. Another idea is to open the drain up by cutting away some of the screen if it has one. A better source than me is to go to repairclinic.com and email them. They have a lot more experience than me. I did appliance repair as a side to handyman for 20 years & fixed just about everything for 50. I never had any formal training.
This could be a lot of things. It could be the belt on the drum, the tension pulley on the belt or something stuck between the drum and the frame. To check it you need to unplug it and see if there is a panel under the door that comes off. There may be screws on the bottom of it. If it does not come off, the whole top lifts off.
All the dryers I have owned require lifting the top and then removing the front. Lifting the top requires pulling the top towards the front and then lifting up in one motion or using a putty knife to assist in the lifting the top. The front is removed with a few screws and carefully handing the wiring and drum.
Sounds like you need new drum rollers, so you need to disassemble the front of the machine and remove drum replace all drum rollers and idler pulley also check blower for damage.
If there is no access panel on lower right side behind machine, you will have to lift the top of the machine from the front and remove the front panel to access the inside of the machine. While there it would be a good idea to check out the drum rollers if present and drum glides for wear. Also make sure that the blower wheel is not loose on the motor shaft. All of these will cause noise issues and are common.
Unplug dryer. Remove front kick panel, Remove door. Lift top and lay it back, be sure to support it. Take tension off belt. Remove drum. Replace all worn parts the hold up drum. Check belt tensioner for ware and replace if needed.
it could be your drum glides in the front of the drum or the rear center bearing or rear rollers, or the belt idler pulley or motor end bearings going bad,you will need to remove the front cover by removing lower kick panel screws near the floor and lifting upward on front cover,then remove top cover screws located under top cover and lift up and secure so as not to break wires to control panel,then rotate drum by hand and listen for noise location
Refer to pages 5-2 and 5-3 of the manual below (Should be similar to yours) to
see how to expose the drum by lifting the top of the machine. Then turn
drum very slowly and only until the screw holes for the missing fins
are within your reach. Most of these dryers have two sizes of fins make
sure you order the right one if you need to replace them.
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