Question about Maytag Dryers

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Maytag gas dryer MGD5630HW0, error code flashing F3 E3 after a few minutes. Can someone tell me what the code is for?

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  • 39 Answers

I did A & B, B actually did the trick and I have had absolutely no problems.

Possible Solutions
A
Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.

  1. Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).
  2. Start a time dry cycle.
  3. Monitor the dryer for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.
B
It indicates that the lint screen or vent is clogged; the vent is crushed, kinked or has too many turns. ... The dryer will continue to run when this diagnostic code is present.

My dryer did the same thing. I cleaned all the vents thoroughly, if you are unable to clean inside where the vent screen is try this. remove lint screen, using tape or rubberband attach a empty paper towel roll to the end of your vacuum crevice tool. Also at the 99 cent store I purchased a appliance brush to loosen any lint inside before vacuuming. The brush works better then the one I purchased from Home Depot for $15.
Vacuum the inside of the dryer, be sure to vacuum the very back inside and around the door.
This is the tricky part now.
The dryer flex hose actually has to be set just right. If the placement is incorrect you will get the error codes, dryer turns off after mins etc.

Here is a Flex hose tip video. Hope this is helpful

Posted on Aug 24, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: e3 error

I got mine fixed tonight! It was not that easy but can be done.
After my last post, I called the customer service of DeLonghi. The agent can only refer me to the authorized repair shops but she does not know what “E3” meant. There is no shop in NJ where I live, and the closest one is in CT! One of the two shops there knows right away the E3 is the fault of a condenser sensor. He mailed me the part ($25) and I took the covers off (be very careful to record where the screws are from ---- they are not all the same size/shape, and also there are two small tabs on the top holding two cover pieces together, so don’t force it to open or you will break it). There is only one part looks like the same as the replacement part I newly obtained and it has a metal clip attached on the copper coils. Carefully replace the sensor on the coil as you find previously and plug the other end to the control board. It sounds lengthy but once you open the cover it will all become clear to you. Be patient and this can be done. Very glad to see/hear it is working now again!

p.s., the store first mailed me the wrong part (on the plug-in end it has two ridges rather than one) so I have to call them again to explain and they mailed me a different one with a single ridge. Apparently there are two types (old and new model) for this model.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

Anonymous

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: We are getting error code E3. What does this mean

Looks like you have either a stuck drum (does not spin) or an electrical fault that make the washer think the drum is not moving.

From a 2006 Technical Bulletin:

E3: Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)

Specifically, it could be:

1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause.
2. Hall Sensor (integral part of motor) fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3” code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire harness connector(s) to motor.

Unless you are really overloading your machine you likely have an electrical fault, or a failure in the drive train--especially if the problem is intermittent. Probably time to call in a technician.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

protek480

Craig Butler

  • 1730 Answers

SOURCE: Electrolux dryer error code e61

There is a 'tech sheet' in the back pf the dryer. Unplug machine, Remove the access panel on the back to get to it. Reach in and it should be there. It will tell you how to do a button check. You have to enter a test mode through the buttons.
The E 61 is a stuck button.


Enter function test mode and perform key
stuck closed (active). (button) test to determine which button is at
fault. Carefully free the and perform the test
again. If button is free but the key struck code
still exists, replace electronic control.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

1bad57

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Epic-Z F-28 error code

F28 is a misc error,
most of the time it is because the washer is NOT LEVEL.
1. Unplug waher,
2. Relevel washer. (make sure all legs are equally distributing weight, so as to ensure no shaking). See owner's manual.
3. Plug in, and use.
Hope this helps.
Jay

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

jimorris77

  • 411 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag mde2400ayw stack dryer beeps a warning with

.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

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Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.
4 Digit Failure Codes
F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

on Apr 24, 2015 | Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.


4 Digit Failure Codes

F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective

Two digit codes:

F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure

Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:

F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction

F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error

F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.

If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

Regards.

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There may be a problem with the Oven Temperature Sensor, or the associated wiring.

Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker(s) for one (1) minute.

Power unit up by turning on the circuit breaker(s).

Monitor the oven for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.

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E3 error code is indicating that the motor should be running but the hall sensor for the motor is not sensing the turning of the motor.

If the error code comes up all the time as soon as you press the power on button, then it means your control board is bad and reading incorrectly. If it only happens during a cycle, then you need a new motor unfortunately.

Note - You could disconnect the power supply for few minutes, say 15 minutes and see if that resets the control board and solve the problem unless follow what was mentioned above.

For replacement instructions you can download this repair manual for your front load and follow the steps given in the manual and here the search parts.

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