Question about Electrical Supplies
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Posted on Oct 16, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First off, be sure the pigtail is wired correctly to the back of the unit. Black and red to the outside terminals, white to the middle, green to the frame or cabinet (should be a green screw close-by). If that is ok, you probably have an issue with possibly a bad pigtail, bad outlet, wiring issue, or possibly a bad circuit breaker or breaker box. Probably going to be more of a electrical problem than a appliance problem. Good Luck!!!!
Posted on Feb 02, 2008
WASHING MACHINES ARE NOT TO BE CONNECTED TO GFI OUTLETS AND TRY TO CONNECT IT TO A CERCIUT THAT IS NOT WITH YOUR DRYER. (REG) OUTLET.
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
The most likely causes in their order of probability are: 1) water somewhere in the circuit causing the hot wire to ground; 2) a legitimate trip caused by a defect in a device plugged into the circuit; and 3) a defective GFCI breaker. In the first case, wait until it has been dry for about a week and see if it trips. In the second case, make sure there is nothing plugged into the circuit and try resetting. In the third case go ahead and put the regular breaker in, then put a GFCI outlet into the first box downstream from the breaker. If installed according to the directions, that outlet should protect all of the outlets downstream.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
The breaker is tripping because there is a short in the mower electrical circuit -- most likely in the motor winding -- it overheated.
If you have a multimeter measure the resistance (ohms) of the motor winding by putting the meter probes on the two flat prongs of the power cord with the mower switch on. If you get near zero ohms, the winding is shorted -- motor "burned up".
Using the multimeter again, check for continuity between the round ground pin on the power cord and each of the two flat prongs. If you get continuity on either of these, there is a short to the mower chassis. This can probably be corrected without much expense.
My bet is on the motor winding being shorted.
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
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If you find the fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped, unplug everything from the circuit to which the microwave is connected (keep in mind that other outlets may be fed from the same circuit). Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the same thing happens again, you have a problem with the outlet or other wiring on the same branch circuit. If plugging in the microwave causes the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip immediately, there is a short circuit in the power cord or elsewhere.
The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and the GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to happen.) The GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check the countertop outlets. The tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost anywhere else! Pushing the RESET button may be all that's needed.
Next, try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank following a power outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore, some ovens will not allow you perform any cooking related actions until the clock is set to a valid time.
Assuming these are not your problems, a fuse has probably blown although a dead controller is a possibility.
While you can do some repairs on your microwave, what you don't know can kill you... even on an unplugged microwave, so make sure you understand the dangers and how to reduce them before you try anything inside a microwave. If you want to do more yourself, go to the link at the top of this post.
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