I was doing some routine cleaning maintenance on the unit yesterday. I removed the top console area with all of the buttons/electronics. As I removed it, I fumbled it a bit. And dropped it. It didn't hit the ground. Just fell against the wall. After i put the unit back together, I plugged it back in. When I plugged it back, in it did about 7-8 fast beeps and almost all of the indicator lights are on solid except for Cold, Low, 3hr, lid locked, fast, Auto, regular, and a few of the wash progress lights. I can't power on/off the machine. If I hit some of the buttons, it will fast beep like it does when I plug it in. Did I ruin the motherboard? I don't see any loose connections.... Any ideas?? Thank you.
It thinks the display panel is not in place due to a bad connection on the plug. With the power off at wall, unplug the display board from the control module. Check inside the plug opening for any damaged pins/contacts. Plug display board back into control board. Make sure it is firmly pushed in place. Turn power back on and try display buttons.
You may have tripped the board circuit, have you tried to reset it? read ur manual and it should show you how to reset it or try unplugging it for few minutes and plug back in..
WASHER WILL NOT START:
Power
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (orreplace the fuse) if necessary.
Lid Switch
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one,the switch MAY BE BADand will need to be replaced.Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
Door Interlock
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Timer Knob
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Push start switchmay need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switchon some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
Overheating
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!
All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced
Lastly CONTROL BOARD
If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help
http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Washer/Will-Not-Start/
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel "clog Problem"
the water comes through 2 vavle 1 for washing and the other for rinsing more than likely that the rinse valve is down it will need replacing thats the more common fault for washers not rinsing
SOURCE: Washing machine has packed a sad
The problem is definitely in the lid switch. Your machine has a reed switch which is located under the hob on the right side of the tub. There is a magnet built into the lid which activates the reed switch when the lid is closed. You will need to replace the reed switch and harness.
SOURCE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Top Loader Washer
Please dont put any more money into this machine,if you wait long enough it will take alot more than a penny.
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GWL11 Top-Load Washer troubleshooting
I've had my washer for about 8 years. I experienced the same problem - pump stopped draining the machine. I called F&P and "Patrick" told me that I need to 1) unplug the machine, 2) tilt up the front of the machine, 3) spin the pump (plastic blades) until they turn freely (usually counter clockwise) but I turn it both ways till it turns freely, 4) plug the machine back in and press the buttons to get it back where it was - this has worked every time to get the machine going again. I do a lot of "dog laundry" and I'm sure the rugs/dog hair cause the problem. Hope this helps!
SOURCE: My Fisher & Paykel GWL11 Washer starts beeping
Hi
The washer is detecting error while it enters wash cycle. You can try and enter the diagnostic mode & check if it resolves the issue. If it doesn't then you would need check for the fault codes.
To enter Diagnostic Mode turn the power on at the power point and off at the console. Press and hold the WASH TEMPERATURE DOWN then press the POWER button. Smartdrive will give 2 short beeps. Phase 1 & 2 Only press ADVANCE button once.
From Diagnostic mode press the SPIN buttons until the HOLD and SLOW SPIN LEDs are on, (Diagnostic mode level 3). The WASH PROGRESS LEDs will now display the fault code.
Hope this helps... Please post back if you need further assistance.
Daniel
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