First, make sure that the control pad lock (child lock) isn't enabled. This could prevent any of the following steps from working. You can try unplugging the oven (or turn it off at the circuit breaker) for several minutes (5-10). After returning power to the unit, press the key pad button for Clear/Off. This often resets the electronic control. A similar option is to start another self-cleaning cycle. After 1-2 minutes, when you hear the oven start the heating cycle, press Clear/Off. Sometimes if you wait for up to 2 hours after running a short (1-2 hour) cleaning cycle, the door will unlock.
If these steps don't work, then the thermostat is not recognizing that the oven has cooled down to a safe temperature or the door lock mechanism is damaged. Trying to force the door open will probably damage additional parts of the oven. Turn off the oven before starting to attempt to access the lock mechanism. You can try accessing the lock mechanism from the back or by using a bent wire (like a section of coat hanger). Slide the wire between the door and the oven at the top. Then try to pull the locking rod to the open position.
You'll need to either schedule a service call or pinpoint the failure yourself. Check the continuity across the oven temperature sensor, the over temperature limit sensor and the door lock mechanism. Make sure that the oven is cool and unplugged to start. For the door lock, you need to set the oven to the self-clean cycle to obtain a measurement. Check the wiring between these points and the control board if the readings are close to the expected value for your model. For most ovens, the door lock switch test should give a value close to zero. If replacing the temperature sensor or the door lock mechanism doesn't work and the wiring is undamaged, then the control board may need to be replaced. Replace the faulty parts.
I hope this helps. Please add comment with the model number if you need a parts list or diagram for your oven.
Cindy Wells
SOURCE: Oven door locked
you would have to remove oven.remove top panel and disengage latch assembly if you are a tech.
SOURCE: Ge wall oven blinking door locked for days
The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked. the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.
SOURCE: "door lock" light stays on and oven won't work
Same problems. When I removed the lock operating arm nothing happened. Motor is not operating. I've temporarily kluged it by tying the "unlock" (upper) switch circuit together and disconnecting one side of the power to the "locked" (lower) switch. At least we'll have an oven to use, but I'll have to come back and remove the lock motor assembly to find out what's really wrong.
BTW, if some knows those keyed-in service codes they could be useful.
SOURCE: My Kenmore Oven door won't unlock
Try throwing the electrical breaker off and then on to see if it will reset. If not you could put it through another cycle to see if its a jammed armature. However either the door lock motor armature is jammed or the motor is the problem or the solid state did not recognize the cycle was over. If you open the breakers and remove the covers to access the mounting screws you can work the unit out of the wall. Be sure to place some heavy towel or card board on the ground to keep from damaging the floor. Watch placement of your hands and depending on your fittness level you may need a hand pulling and replacing the unit. Test the electrical supply to ensure that its not energized. Then try disengaging the lock armature. IF YOU OPT TO REMOVE THE LOCK THEN THE UNIT SHOULD NOT BE USED IN THE CLEANING CYCLE, EVEN THOUGH THE UNIT SHOULD NOT FUNCTION WITH THE LOCK DISENGAGED, YOU NEVER KNOW ABOUT ELECTRONICS AND IF IT RAN IN THE CLEANING CYCLE SOMEOEN COULD OPEN IT AND GET BADLY BURNED. SO DONT DO IT. You should be able to order the parts needed on line at this website. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears Best o Luck :?) DRRXR
SOURCE: door won't open after self-cleaning cycle is complete
Turns out that the latch is attached to a plastic piece (made by the manufacturer) and the spring melted! To boot, the fuse in the back which aids in heating the oven went out also. Repair man said this was typical after several uses in cleaning cycle. He recommended using a gentle steel wool pad with soap built in to gently remove backed on food instead of using cleaning cycle. It is just too hot for too long, and there seems to be a domino effect with things that will go wrong. Nothing like the old fashioned way and a little elbow grease!
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