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Margaret Baxter Posted on Nov 03, 2019
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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My oven door is still locked after cleaning system set yesterday. How can I get it to open?

1 Answer

Cindy Wells

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  • Ovens Master 6,688 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 03, 2019
Cindy  Wells
Ovens Master
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Joined: May 31, 2008
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First, make sure that the control pad lock (child lock) isn't enabled. This could prevent any of the following steps from working. You can try unplugging the oven (or turn it off at the circuit breaker) for several minutes (5-10). After returning power to the unit, press the key pad button for Clear/Off. This often resets the electronic control. A similar option is to start another self-cleaning cycle. After 1-2 minutes, when you hear the oven start the heating cycle, press Clear/Off. Sometimes if you wait for up to 2 hours after running a short (1-2 hour) cleaning cycle, the door will unlock.

If these steps don't work, then the thermostat is not recognizing that the oven has cooled down to a safe temperature or the door lock mechanism is damaged. Trying to force the door open will probably damage additional parts of the oven. Turn off the oven before starting to attempt to access the lock mechanism. You can try accessing the lock mechanism from the back or by using a bent wire (like a section of coat hanger). Slide the wire between the door and the oven at the top. Then try to pull the locking rod to the open position.

You'll need to either schedule a service call or pinpoint the failure yourself. Check the continuity across the oven temperature sensor, the over temperature limit sensor and the door lock mechanism. Make sure that the oven is cool and unplugged to start. For the door lock, you need to set the oven to the self-clean cycle to obtain a measurement. Check the wiring between these points and the control board if the readings are close to the expected value for your model. For most ovens, the door lock switch test should give a value close to zero. If replacing the temperature sensor or the door lock mechanism doesn't work and the wiring is undamaged, then the control board may need to be replaced. Replace the faulty parts.

I hope this helps. Please add comment with the model number if you need a parts list or diagram for your oven.

Cindy Wells

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 35 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 25, 2007

SOURCE: Oven door locked

you would have to remove oven.remove top panel and disengage latch assembly if you are a tech.

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Anonymous

  • 100 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2007

SOURCE: Ge wall oven blinking door locked for days

The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked.  the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 28, 2008

SOURCE: "door lock" light stays on and oven won't work

Same problems. When I removed the lock operating arm nothing happened. Motor is not operating. I've temporarily kluged it by tying the "unlock" (upper) switch circuit together and disconnecting one side of the power to the "locked" (lower) switch. At least we'll have an oven to use, but I'll have to come back and remove the lock motor assembly to find out what's really wrong.
BTW, if some knows those keyed-in service codes they could be useful.

Anonymous

  • 29 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 15, 2009

SOURCE: My Kenmore Oven door won't unlock

Try throwing the electrical breaker off and then on to see if it will reset. If not you could put it through another cycle to see if its a jammed armature. However either the door lock motor armature is jammed or the motor is the problem or the solid state did not recognize the cycle was over. If you open the breakers and remove the covers to access the mounting screws you can work the unit out of the wall. Be sure to place some heavy towel or card board on the ground to keep from damaging the floor. Watch placement of your hands and depending on your fittness level you may need a hand pulling and replacing the unit. Test the electrical supply to ensure that its not energized. Then try disengaging the lock armature. IF YOU OPT TO REMOVE THE LOCK THEN THE UNIT SHOULD NOT BE USED IN THE CLEANING CYCLE, EVEN THOUGH THE UNIT SHOULD NOT FUNCTION WITH THE LOCK DISENGAGED, YOU NEVER KNOW ABOUT ELECTRONICS AND IF IT RAN IN THE CLEANING CYCLE SOMEOEN COULD OPEN IT AND GET BADLY BURNED. SO DONT DO IT. You should be able to order the parts needed on line at this website. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears Best o Luck :?) DRRXR

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 20, 2009

SOURCE: door won't open after self-cleaning cycle is complete

Turns out that the latch is attached to a plastic piece (made by the manufacturer) and the spring melted! To boot, the fuse in the back which aids in heating the oven went out also. Repair man said this was typical after several uses in cleaning cycle. He recommended using a gentle steel wool pad with soap built in to gently remove backed on food instead of using cleaning cycle. It is just too hot for too long, and there seems to be a domino effect with things that will go wrong. Nothing like the old fashioned way and a little elbow grease!

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Had cleaned GE oven yesterday using SELF CLEAN and today my oven will not work as it keeps flashing UNLOCK DOOR when the door is already open. Cant use the oven

There is a sensor/switch that sends a signal that the oven door is locked and that it is unlocked, it must be defective.
Jan 11, 2017 • GE Ovens
1helpful
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How do I lock door for self cleaning

Some ovens have a latch handle between the top of the door and the actual range top that you have to push sideways to lock. May also be a lock button you have to push in while moving the latch handle.
If you don't see the latch handle, The lock system may be the hidden type that should lock automatically when set to clean. Once the oven is set properly for clean, a motor will latch the door by itself. After the oven gets close to clean temperature, the latch gets locked out and the door will not open until the clean cycle is complete and oven cools down to normal room temperature again. This is a safety feature so you can't open the door while the oven is at clean temp (about 850 degrees). Hope this explains enough. If door never auto latches, could be a problem with the latch/lock system and motor.
Mar 29, 2015 • Ovens
0helpful
1answer

I self-cleaned our oven yesterday. After waiting

in order to get the door open you can remove the door locking motor and turn the locking shaft.
there could be a problem with the excessive heat from the oven during the cleaning cycle check with frigidaire and see if there is any kind of recall for this problem
0helpful
1answer

Oven door locked.

The F9 code indicates there is a problem with the door lock.

Try disconnecting the power to the range for 10 seconds and reconnecting. Open the oven door and hold the door switch plunger in while you try these things. Put the control into clean for 5 minutes then cancel clean. You must hold the door switch plunger in for the 5 minutes.

Try canceling the clean cycle without putting the control into clean.



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!$%!!!%!%
4helpful
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Cleaning over but lock light will not goff and i can not open my oven

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
3helpful
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Door locked after shutting down cleaning cycle earlier than

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
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LED says "Locked" can't turn on stove. How do you unlock it?

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
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1answer

Self-cleaning oven door won't open

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
May 15, 2009 • Ovens
2helpful
2answers

I accidently pressed self clean instead of boil on my oven

Hi

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.
Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
*On -some- Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the right hand side panel and activated by the right hand door hinge. On this model, the side panel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch.


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Rylee
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