I have a Maytag Bravos Quiet Series 400 with steam I get an error code of fo1 it was overly pack up with lint, but I have got it all out front and back still have an error code

6ya staff

• 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: My Maytag Quiet Series 400 has a L code and will

push and hold the lock button for about 3-5 seconds

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

electronic & computer repair& servicre

• 12061 Answers

SOURCE: AF Error Code

If thats not it, then you nay have a faulty sensor.
AF Restricted Airflow Condition
"AF" flashes if a restricted airflow condition exists. Check to make sure the lint screen is clean, the door seal is in place and the vent is not
obstructed.

Posted on Mar 18, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks so much!"

ElectricMan

• 145 Answers

SOURCE: maytag bravos dryer belt needs to be replaced

Check in the back and see if the belt has a wide span on it. If it does, it doesn't only go around the fan pulley but also the drum (Which is usually the case). THis being the case you need to look for and screws you can find on the dryer outer casing because you will need to remove the outer casing to get to the drum. If you look for screw on the upper part just inside the door many times the upper deck is on hinges and will tilt backward so you can view the top of the drum with the belt on it. Remember how it came apart; it goes back together in reverse manner. Once you usually find the belt tension pulley through the back of the dryer compartment, let the tension off the pulley and slide the belt off of it. Once you get the belt off put it back on just like the old one.

Posted on May 02, 2010

blueextc3221

• 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Bravos Steam dryer that reads service error code F1

F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgfrwxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksrttqdqrxkssrqtgsd/1/1303472/5961857/image12917img-or.jpg

Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.

The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdffkrdwtbgwsxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksskgsfwrxksrttqdqr/1/1303472/5961857/image12923img-or.gif


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Posted on Sep 29, 2010

Kelly

• 3740 Answers

SOURCE: My Maytag Bravos quiet series

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
My response is very long and will be in 2 parts this is PART 1

Here is what the service manual says about Ld:

"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain

water from the wash tub)

Check the following:

Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?

Is the drain hose installed properly? See

"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Also:

Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of

the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)

above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)

a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet

and outlet drain hoses off the pump.

Note that there is a tab on the outlet

connector that fits into a slot in the

hose.

b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head

screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:

-Disconnect the wire connector from the

drain pump terminals.

- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each

of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.

----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --

From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:

Long Drain

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?

• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.

TEST 7

TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test

Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps

test.

2. Remove the console to access the machine/

motor control assembly. See Accessing

& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

3. Visually check that the P4 connector is

inserted all the way into the machine/motor

control.

If visual check passes, go to step 4.

If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and

repeat step 1.

4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.

If resistance values are good, go to step 7.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem

exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor

control and the motor. Go to step 5.

5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom

of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and

take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the

pump motor.

If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/

motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.

If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check

the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.

7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.

8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Posted on Nov 21, 2010