Question about Honda Gx270 9.0
Install the piston to the cylinder
barrel with the mark on the piston
head toward the push rod hole of the
Posted on Nov 09, 2019
Testimonial: "thanks.that was all done and valve lash set.it seems like the crankshaft moved some how.is the bearing on the flywheel side a press on.could iv moved it somehow when i took the flywheel off"
The service and repair manual with diagram and pictures will provide you step by step help to locate and fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com/
Posted on Nov 09, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: not hitting rev limit
Hello there matey...I'v got a gti 8v anniversary!..it seems to have the same problem the day i brought it...some GTi's just do that...i have heard its got to do with the ECU..bringing fuel to the engine..they way i overcome the lag of a 8v was getting a Pipercross Viper induction kit!..I dunno if ur 4om england or america!?...here in england they retail for about £250.00!...but wooow! they make a different! the engine gets so much cold hair that it seems the pin is going to fly of! it flys past 5100 revs..and theres no lag!.. feels better than a 16v..also think of a ecotek valve made a alot of different even tho its used 2 M.P.G...
Posted on Jul 07, 2008
SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking
These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.
Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
did you try the distributor I just had the same problem with my acura and I changed the sensor and it did not work.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
SOURCE: motor wont crank
It has happened to me that, when ordering parts, i was given .025 oversized bearings after ordering standards. take it back apart, and double check the bearing marks. if they are what you ordered, use some micrometers or plastigage, and get the correct set.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
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Engines can make many different noises and people will describe them as knocks, pings, rattles or thumps. A true "knock" is caused by rod or main bearings hitting against the crankshaft. The general cause of that is either too much space between the bearing and crankshaft or insufficient oil pressure to maintain the distance between the bearing and crankshaft. Sometimes you can use a heavier grade oil so that the oil doesn't leak out of the bearing space so quickly. If you're currently using 5 W 15, go to a 10 W 30 or maybe even a 15 W 50. If you can't make the noise go away with that, either the bearings are too worn or it's a different problem. If the engine has less than a couple hundred thousand miles, the only reason for bearings to go bad would be inadequate maintenance.
Other problems that can result in noises like that are:
Piston slap. That's when the skirt (lower part) of the piston is slightly worn and is enough smaller than the cylinder that the skirt "pops" from one side to the other as the engine runs. It's more of an annoyance than a real problem, especially since piston slap typically goes away as the engine warms up a little. It typically takes just a few seconds to go away. If it's piston slap don't worry about it until the engine is rebuilt. Piston slap is quite common among many of the GM 350's, especially in engines that go short distances a lot or don't get adequate maintenance.
Fuel "pinging". That's when the fuel ignites too quickly and causes a sound like something rattling around inside the engine when you step on the accellerator. Use a fuel octane booster or change the engine timing.
Hydraulic lifter noises sounds more like a tapping sound and is usually caused by inconsistent oil changes
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