Question about Honda Gx270 9.0

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I rebuilt my honda gx270.it started knocking on start up.i opened it up it looks like the piston arm is hitting the side of the crankshaft it is rubbing on the side where it attaches to the crank

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PISTON

INSTALLATION:

Install the piston to the cylinder

barrel with the mark on the piston

head toward the push rod hole of the

cylinder head.

Posted on Nov 09, 2019

Testimonial: "thanks.that was all done and valve lash set.it seems like the crankshaft moved some how.is the bearing on the flywheel side a press on.could iv moved it somehow when i took the flywheel off"

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  • Honda Master
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The service and repair manual with diagram and pictures will provide you step by step help to locate and fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com/

Posted on Nov 09, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Anonymous

SOURCE: not hitting rev limit

Hello there matey...I'v got a gti 8v anniversary!..it seems to have the same problem the day i brought it...some GTi's just do that...i have heard its got to do with the ECU..bringing fuel to the engine..they way i overcome the lag of a 8v was getting a Pipercross Viper induction kit!..I dunno if ur 4om england or america!?...here in england they retail for about £250.00!...but wooow! they make a different! the engine gets so much cold hair that it seems the pin is going to fly of! it flys past 5100 revs..and theres no lag!.. feels better than a 16v..also think of a ecotek valve made a alot of different even tho its used 2 M.P.G...
Good luck...
Godfather ;)

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

Anonymous

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking

These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.

  • Remove the cylinder head.Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  • Drain the engine oil.
    Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
    Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
    Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
    Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
    One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
    After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
    The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
    When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

Anonymous

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 audi a4 2.8 was hit in the front change the bumper ,radiator

Sounds to me like your timing belt jumped on bank 1.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: 1.8l acura engine cranks over wont start timing check ok

did you try the distributor I just had the same problem with my acura and I changed the sensor and it did not work.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

Anonymous

  • 133 Answers

SOURCE: motor wont crank

It has happened to me that, when ordering parts, i was given .025 oversized bearings after ordering standards. take it back apart, and double check the bearing marks. if they are what you ordered, use some micrometers or plastigage, and get the correct set.

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

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2 Answers

When already change timing belt on 1995 honda Odyssey when started & running I has a knock knock sound in the bottom end


Does it sound like someone knocking on a solid hardwood door? If so, it most likely is a failure of a piston connection rod bearing or a crank main bearing. An easy way to check this is to start the car and then take the spark plug wires off of the plug or distributor one at a time (if you can, some new cars won't allow this) If the knock stops when you pull the plug wire off, the rod bearing in that piston rod is destroyed. NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: be VERY aware that a running ignition system can SHOCK you if you lean up against the car or ground yourself in any way. This isn't a tiny shock. It is about 30,000 to 50,000 volts and hurts a great deal. (don't ask me how I know) If that is the case, your engine will need to be rebuilt. I have seen times where a transmission cover was causing a noise while the car is running but it would be a very slight chance that this is the problem.

Mar 22, 2015 | Honda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed out the spark plug wires on my car, now the engine knocks.


You may have the ORDER correct, but the STARTING POINT off by one plug! If you can find the timing mark on the crankshaft, place it in line with the timing indicator, and that should make the rotor (under the distributor cap) point to plug #1. If it looks way off, like 180 degrees away from plug wire #1, rotate the crankshaft one full turn, and recheck where the rotor is pointing! If the knocking problem persists, there may be a problem with the timing belt or chain which drives the distributor at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft. That would explain the smells because the valves would be open at the wrong times. Caution! Pistons can hit valves that are open at the wrong time! Things can BREAK under those conditions!

Apr 18, 2017 | 1997 Subaru Outback

1 Answer

Not getting oil to the pistons. Making knocking noise. Wont stay on.


Hello
Has the engine been run low on oil? Does the knocking get louder as the engine warms up? Have you had a automotive technician listen to this noise? Pistons don't really knock, the bearings in the engine called the crankshaft and piston connecting rod bearings do make a loud knocking noise, if that is the case the engine must be removed from the car and rebuilt.

Sep 23, 2011 | 1998 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Engine is knocking needing to know anything and everything that could cause this. We just replaced the transmission a week ago and we have an O2 sensor out.


Engines can make many different noises and people will describe them as knocks, pings, rattles or thumps. A true "knock" is caused by rod or main bearings hitting against the crankshaft. The general cause of that is either too much space between the bearing and crankshaft or insufficient oil pressure to maintain the distance between the bearing and crankshaft. Sometimes you can use a heavier grade oil so that the oil doesn't leak out of the bearing space so quickly. If you're currently using 5 W 15, go to a 10 W 30 or maybe even a 15 W 50. If you can't make the noise go away with that, either the bearings are too worn or it's a different problem. If the engine has less than a couple hundred thousand miles, the only reason for bearings to go bad would be inadequate maintenance.

Other problems that can result in noises like that are:

Piston slap. That's when the skirt (lower part) of the piston is slightly worn and is enough smaller than the cylinder that the skirt "pops" from one side to the other as the engine runs. It's more of an annoyance than a real problem, especially since piston slap typically goes away as the engine warms up a little. It typically takes just a few seconds to go away. If it's piston slap don't worry about it until the engine is rebuilt. Piston slap is quite common among many of the GM 350's, especially in engines that go short distances a lot or don't get adequate maintenance.

Fuel "pinging". That's when the fuel ignites too quickly and causes a sound like something rattling around inside the engine when you step on the accellerator. Use a fuel octane booster or change the engine timing.

Hydraulic lifter noises sounds more like a tapping sound and is usually caused by inconsistent oil changes

SHORT STORY, IT IS 13 YEARS OLD AND 3 YEARS PAST ITS DESIGNED LIFE

Jun 10, 2011 | 1998 Saturn SL

1 Answer

MY Truck will not start. Mechanic said it was a timing belt issue. I would like to know what is, in summary, the cost of this. He's trying to charge me a arm and a leg


The timing belt connects the main crank at the bottom of the engine to the camshaft and other bits and bobs at the top of the engine.

The crankshaft lifts and drops the valves in the top of each cylinder to allow fuel in and exhaust out at the correct moment in the engine firing cycle.

If the timing belt fails while the engine is running, the crank keeps turning pushing the pistons up and down while the valves remain still. invariably, the pistons travel up and hit open valves, causing all kinds of cylinder head and valve damage.

The repair usually entails, the removal, rebuild and replacement of the cylinder head. Assuming the cylinder head can be rebuilt. It may be cheaper, taking labour costs into account to replace the whole engine with a second hand/refurb.

Mar 08, 2011 | 2003 Pontiac Aztek

1 Answer

Engine started overheating then, really loud knocking. The engine died shortly thereafter before diagnosis could be made. Same problem happens when trying to start, but engine always dies. Dropped the oil...


As you've already realised, this is serious. The engine is more than likely totally shot. Maybe a broken valve and punched a hole in a piston. Broken piston rod maybe. It's been overheated and also probably blown the head gasket and warped a head. You're looking at a complete engine re-build already. I think I'd just buy a rebuilt long block and start fresh.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1991 GMC K1500

3 Answers

Hi Guys I have a good one for you. I have a 78 dodge D300 1ton truck it has a rebuilt engine 440and a rebuilt transmission in it less than 1000 miles on them the other day it started to make a knocking...


One possible solution is that you got a bad rebuild. The measurement you took is generrally controlled by shims or cap or the front and rear main bearings. So it couls be that anyone or more of the other mains was installed improperly. Now that you have soem mileage on it, it is wearing down and latting the piston hit the cylinder.

Sep 13, 2010 | Dodge Pickup Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 2002 ram 1500 with 4.7 magnum truck


There are several reasons why you would hear a loud knock from the engine, and the knock will usually be either in the top end or in the lower or bottom end of the engine.

The first thing that should be done is to drain the engine oil, and then pour the oil filter into a pan where you can see it, and if there is a lot of metal flakes, or a fine cloud of brass floating in the engine oil, you will not want to waste the time or the money trying to repair that engine by dropping the oil pan and replacing the piston rod bearings, it will only be a very temporary patch at best, that is if the patch even lasts for a day.

If you do find metal flakes in the engine oil and oil filter, the piston rod bearings will not be the only bearings in the engine that will need to be replaced, and the crankshaft main bearings can only be replaced by removing the engine and placing it upside-down on a good engine stand. The biggest problem would be that even if you did successfully replace the piston rod and crankshaft main bearings, it would only take one piece of metal flake that was left over in the engine block to find its way to one of your new bearings and then it will take no time at all before that engine will be right back where you started, and that is how important just the cleaning process is in repairing or replacing internal engine components.

If you do not find any metal in the engine oil or oil filter, then you should attempt to find the actual cause of the knock before you decide how to repair the engine, and you will have to remove the engine oil pan to inspect the rod bearings, and if you do remove the engine oil pan make sure that when you inspect the rod bearings that you only do so one at a time because you can not mix up the rod caps, and be very sure that when you remove a rod cap that you do replace it the same way that it came off, and if you turn around the rod cap and install it the wrong way or scratch the crankshaft bearing surface the rod bearing will fail.

If you can hear the knocking louder from under the vehicle then the most likely causes for a lower end engine knock are a damaged piston, worn out piston rod bearings, a broken piston rod, a broken flex-plate, and sometimes loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts, and the only parts that you can really check out without opening up the engine would be a broken flex-plate, or for any loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts.

If you can hear the knocking more from the top of the engine, then the most likely causes for an upper engine knock would be a faulty lifter, or broken rocker arm, or a broken valve spring allowing the valve to contact the piston, and it will require the removal of the valve covers and possibly the intake manifold to inspect for the problem.

If you have any doubts then it would be a good idea to consider a good used engine that you can hear run before you buy it, or a rebuilt engine for that vehicle.

I hope that this information will help you out and save you some time and a lot of money.

Jun 07, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

1 Answer

I have a knocking noise when I start the car what could it be


if it is a clatter then a piston would be the cause, if it is like a hammer hitting metal then u have a bad connecting rod bearing or crankshaft main bearing

Dec 01, 2009 | 1998 Isuzu Rodeo

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