Question about GE Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Control Panel
I believe the DRAIN/SPIN button on the Kenmore Elite HE3 will clear a locked control panel if you hold the button in for 3 seconds. This is actually a safety feature to keep small children from playing with the buttons and allows the consumer to lock the control panel. I hope that's all the problem you have and that it is not a control panel failure. Let me know if this helps. PS The matching Kenmore Elite Dryer uses the AUTO DRY LEVEL button for the same feature.
Posted on Jul 19, 2007
nicknames, usually with long dry times I suspect a pinched or clogged vent. Make sure you check that first. You can do a test to check the moisture sensor. The 2 sensor bars will be on the inside of the drum just below the vent cage. Press the home and then help button. Next press and hold the help and start/stop button for 3 seconds. On a dry sensor, you should see a voltage of approx 4.75 displaying. Now get a wet rag and hold them across the 2 sensor bars. You should see the voltage drop to about 1.0 volts. If it does this your sensor is ok. Check the vent and this out first and we will take it from there. Catriver.
Posted on Dec 03, 2007
If your blower stops working, the element will overheat and trip the high limit, thats is why you have no heat.
The trick is to find out why the blower isnt working. It should be found under the dryer. Its possible that there may be a loose wire. It could be getting ready to go out. I would run the blower motor, observe it when it stops, then take a voltage reading. If voltage is presnet at the blower motor, and the motor isnt working, then the motor needs to be replaced. If voltage is not present, then we must determine why.
If your dryer is not getting any heat, you need to make sure there is nothing blocking the front of the dryer. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas. The heating element is a coil made from a nickel-chrome alloy, called nichrome. Check the coil for continuity with a Volt Ohm Meter. If there's no continuity, it means that the element is bad and you need to replace it. An electric dryer should have it's own separate power line.
When the burner is operating properly, the flame should be clean and blue.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.
If the ignitor doesn't glow, look for a white or yellowish discoloration, or for a break in the ignitor. If this is something visible, just replace the ignitor. If there are no obvious signs of a break or burnt area, test it for continuity. If the ignitor doesn't have this type of problem, you'll need to determine if the problem is in the control area, or somewhere else within the burner system. Test for 110v getting to your burner assembly.
Here's a test you can perform: Unplug your dryer and then open up the burner inspection panel. Unplugging your burner assembly unit, you want to connect your jumpers for the Volt Ohm Meter to the dryer side of the assembly, not the burner side. Keeping your Ohm meter wires away from the drum area, set the timer to on, set the controls to high heat, and then plug the dryer back in. If there is 110v in this area, you can assume the thermostats in this area are good. If not, a timer, motor centrifugal switch, or other thermostat may be your culprit.
To protect from over-heating, many dryers use what's commonly called a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse gets too hot, it will blow, and completely shut down your dryer until it is replaced. This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It's about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced. When replacing this fuse, check the dryer vents to make sure there is no lint buildup which can cause the heat to stay trapped and blow the fuse again.
You should visually inspect the wiring connections to the dryer from the house regularly. If you're opening the dryer case, give the wiring inside a good visual check as well. Lastly, never use an extension cord to operate this appliance. An electric dryer draws a lot of power, and the shorter the wiring to it, the better. The power cord connects to a terminal block in the back of an electric dryer. Sometimes this terminal can get burned out or ground to the dryer. Make sure the power is turned off, and look for scorching, burned, or broken connections. For electric dryers, one broken connection might allow the dryer drum and timer to operate, but there would be no heat.
If your clothes are wet then:
This is usually caused by poor airflow. Turn your dryer on and go outside to the vent. If there is not a strong airflow, check your dryer duct vent, lint trap, blower, and also look for clogs and kinks in the vent hose or ducting. Ductwork inside the dryer may become clogged. Use a long flexible lint brush or vacuum attachment to clean these ducts. Make sure the air path is clear from the burner assembly or heating element all the way to the exhaust vent.
Some electric dryer heating elements have two circuits in them. Sometimes one can burn out. If one part is not working properly, this can lead to a dramatically longer drying time. If this happens, you'll want to just replace the whole heating element since the individual circuits are not available separately.
Another reason for damp clothes would be one of the cycling thermostats. These control the temperature in your dryer and when they fail, they prevent the dryer from heating well or stop it from operating altogether. To locate and replace a thermostat, follow the duct work that moves the air through the dryer. A thermostat has 2 to 5 wires attached to it, and the body is black or brown. On the end opposite the wires is a metal plate that is used to attach the thermostat to the duct work.
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Posted on Apr 07, 2008
SOURCE: GE front load washer (clothes)
THANK YOU. for those of you with a screw driver, here are the photos on how to.
It takes a philips screw driver and 20 minutes. The white screws may not align perfectly but don't worry, just get them to go back in the hole(no harm done).
I'm going to admit it was my wife that found this fix, so now I give the step by step photos.
Small white screws (3 in total)
cover "falls" off
Unscrew the lint trap (turn to the left)return when clean to hand tight
Bob's your uncle and a freebee for CMKX'rs.
Hub and wife team.
Posted on Apr 15, 2008
It won't drain
If your washer won't drain, check these:
It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
Posted on May 01, 2009
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