TV became unable to get past the boot screen after a firm ware update. Is there a way to reset the main board to factory settings via the circuit board as i cannot access any of the TVs menus?

SOURCE: LCD tv main/digital board

Send it to us and we will refurbish the board.....

e-mail [email protected]

SOURCE: LCD tv main/digital board

I might be able to help... Can you send me a pic of the board?

[email protected]

SOURCE: Cannot access main menu or pages screen

I think I can help with your issue. I have an LMS 334c and have had a few issues in the past. Called the factory (this answer is not listed any where in your manual) and they instructed me to "Soft Re Boot" my unit and it would put everything back to factory settings. Try this anytime it does not respond for whatever reason.

Turn the unit off.

At the same time press the Pages and Power button. Hold both down until you see the square box come up in the screen. You should have your factory settings again. May need to try a few times.
Lowrance said it works just like a computer, ever now and then it just tries to disect to much information at one time and hangs up.
Good luck. James Cantwell

SOURCE: PDP5016H Akai Plasma TV

is the control board the one with the rca jacks on it,for sound and video input?if so email me at [email protected],i need one.

SOURCE: Waring pro Waffle Maker has no power

One thing missing from my WMK300 is a circuit breaker or replaceable fuse. Apparently your wiring became the fuse. Please read and understand my entire Answer before starting.
>>This answer is only for technicians proficient in soldering, with safety training in testing 120 VAC circuits and with an understanding of insulation temperature ratings. Memorize the average torque required to loosen each type of screw and do not exceed that torque when tightening.<<
It is likely that the wires leading to the heating elements are defective. You must open the top and bottom clamshells to inspect the wires inside there. Look for melted insulation, cracked stand-off insulation posts, etc. You will have to repair the obvious problems before the next steps.
>> It is helpful to have a multimeter to test resistance. The heating elements should not have continuity to the metal chassis or ground wire. The resistance of the heating elements should be in a sensible range given the wattage rating of this appliance.<<
If the wire under the damaged insulation is in great condition, you may just repair the insulation. In the base, you may use normal wiring insulation since this area stays cool. I recommend slipping some larger diameter insulation over the wire. (Strip this off a larger diameter wire.) In the hot clamshells, you must use high-temperature insulation like the woven fiberglass sheath used in toasters and ovens.
The two white heavy gauge wires connect to "N" (neutral) and "H2" (heater lead 2). The two black wires connect to "L" (line power) and "H1" (heater lead 1). If only one wire came off you should be able to find the correct solder point to reattach.
This circuit board is not replaceable and there are no components on the circuit board that should be capable of drawing enough current to melt the power wires. However, if you cannot find bad wiring elsewhere, inspect the circuit board for solder droplets, bits of wire, screws, bent components, etc. that may cause shorts. Look for overheated circuit board, traces or components.
>>To remove the circuit board on my WMK300, the temperature control knob is left intact on the control panel. Do not remove it. The circuit board lifts off the shaft of the control knob when it is removed from the chassis. Test the knob motion when mating it to the circuit board.<<
Almost all components except the potentiometer and the 8-pin microprocessor controller "U1" are easy to purchase online.

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