Pushed the reset alarm and it goes back to the temp is was set at but it starts beeping again and blinking hi. Everything is working, the fan in the freezer is working and blowing cold air but not freezing. The fridge is cold but not like it should be. My controls for the fridge and freezer only go from 1 to 9. Do I need to add freon?
You’re damper inside of fridge not opening y need to put in service mode to check errors codes service diagram location front bottom left side almost over dripping pan
SOURCE: Fridge too cold
There is a damper motor that is behind the vent where you feel the cold air coming out in the fridge section. That damper should open and close after making temp. adjustments. See if you can look in the vent and see if it is wide open. Set your freezer on the coldest setting and check this vent again an hour or so later. If it is still wide open then that damper motor is bad. Let me know if you find something different or have any questions.
SOURCE: Heater only blows hot (well, warm) on full speed of fan
Replace the temp control on this car, it should be electrical control not cables.
SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge
Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
SG
it sounds like the thermostat. but check the defrosthing element also
SOURCE: GE profile refrigerator line freezes, fan blows but no cold air?
OK, I think I understand. Thing is we need to do a few things to see if your control board is the problem or if the fan or a freon leak is the answer. You need to tell me if this began suddenly or if over a period of time. I have been having trouble lately from Fixya if the customer (YOU) responds to my solutions. Let me know if you want my help and I will see if I get a email letting me know of your response, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Hi,
It is stuck in the defrost mode...
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
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heatman101
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