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I think your picture has a bright light source in the frame. In digital cameras this phenomenon is common that in some angle these streaks of lines are produced with very bright light sources. be careful not to include bright light source while taking pics. But if u have these streaks and line in all the frames, then better check your camera with the service centre.
9600
Black matte finish on 1-piece welded frame. Black crank arms (generally) and dual brake pads.
9800
Black matte finish on 1-piece welded frame. Black crank arms (generally) and single brake pad.
9900
Glossy finishes w/angled back legs (stabilizer). Bolt-together frame (assembly required). Rectangle shaped stabilizers.
2000B
Glossy finish w/angled back legs (stabilizer). Bolt-together frame (assembly required). Oval shaped stabilizers and single brake pad. Silver crank arms and belt driven.
2000C
Glossy finish w/angled back legs (stabilizer). Bolt-together frame (assembly required). Oval shaped stabilizers and single brake pad. Black crank arms and chain driven.
3000B Robix
Black glossy finish w/angled back legs (stabilizer). Bolt-together frame (assembly required). Oval shaped stabilizers and frame down tube. Belt driven with single brake pad.
Picture frames are very easy to make, but many people make the same very basic mistake that will ruin your frame. It is very important that you follow the carpenters rule of measure twice and cut once. If you don't cut the sides of the frame to be the same length, and you cut the angles of the corners slightly off then when you put it together the final corner won't line up.
The things that you are going to need is a miter saw, some clamps, a backer board and a drafting squares to make sure you have the right angle.
To set up take your backer board and cut off a piece that's around 4 inches to be used as a sliding marker gauge. After cutting it off attach a small piece of wood to keep the slider from shifting around.
With the saw unplugged and turned off clamp the backer board to the back of the saw. To cut the corners of the a frame you need to set the saw to a 45 degree angle. Make sure to check the angle using a drafting square align one side with the backer board and bring down the saw blade align them to make sure its a 45 degree angle. When you think that its right grab yourself a piece of scrap wood and make an initial cut. After cutting the test measure the angle to make sure that it is the right angle.
When you are ready to cut the frame itself take the four pieces of the frame and make an initial cut. Once all the boards have been cut once take your slider marker to the length that you want the sides of the frame to be and clamp it in. Take the first two sides and one at a time line it up with the backer board with the angle on the outside and the cut point against the slider. Turn on the saw and cut the other end. Repeat these steps to cut the other three sides.
After all the sides have been cut use a 90 degree angle to align the corners of the frame. Lay out all the sides of the frame and line them up as tight as you can. To connect them you can use a staple gun to staple the corners together. If you were aligning it and pushing the sides together when you stapled the corners you should have perfectly aligned corners.
Now all that's left is to sand it down and get the inside ready for a picture and stain it if you want.
I have been in the same situation in the past, with a mastercraft miter saw to a point of using playing cards to get that nice tight miter joint. placing the cards between the fence and the piece i was trying to miter.Rioby makes mastercraft all thought they are a good saw they have their limits to the precisions of their cuts. good for fences,decks, stuctural framing ect, were a degree two is not a big thing,but when making furniture or interior trim work or picture frames or hobby craft you need to buy a good pro saw like a dewalt or bosh sliding compoud miter saw they may cost more **** their worth the money they are very precise and will last a life time if taken care of .It will be worth the money when you get that perfect cut every time you use it,it will put the JOY and fun back in your projects and not to mention qualaty in your master pieces.
cut 4 pieces of 2x2 to1.5 inches short of 2 metres. lay them out end to end to form a two metre box. it can only work one way. then take string from corner to corner to find the center, making a crosshair. then stand a level rod at the centre to the desired height and fasten equal length lines from each corner to the peak. using a compound mitre saw, place an angle finder at the bottom and top corners to give you the angle to cut your piece with the saw set at 45 degrees, to give you your compound miter for the top. just set the saw blade to line up with the angle finder to get the bottom cut. the length of your "tight" string line frome corner to peak is your length of "hip" piece
The frame is cropping the images to fill the screen. You need to change the image display settings from Optimal to Original in the setup menu. This way the entire image will show.
I have a Coachman "Road Trec" class C and I installed my scissor jacks near the frame member for the front just to the rear of the bumper. I installed a length of angle iron from the left frame rail to the right frame rail then installed the jacks on the angle iron as close to the frame a possible. On the rear I cut a piece of 3 " angle iron and bolted it to the outside of the frame then mounted the jack on the angle iron for each side.
Depends...
if it's during a slide show, then there's a slide show option "screen fit or fill". If you are set to fill then it will cut off edges, change the setting to screen fit.
or if it is cutting off all 4 sides when displaying a single photo, you may have the zoom turned on. Tap actions / zoom and set the zoom back to 1x.
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