Yesterday we had an appliance repair service man look at our gas broiler that won't light. At first he said ''you have a bad Ignitor (it was new)' so he changed it out just to confirm his hunch. (Unit was getting only 1 ohgm when he tested it). Changed ignitor, still no change--broiler won't light while ignitor glows. He left telling me that we needed to replace the control unit. Before spending hundreds of dollars, is he correct?
PS, they wanted $275 for labor and material for the ignitor so the control unit is going to be really high. Actual model no is 75879
Jumptrout51 is correct with the the round ignitor. Using a clamp on digital ampmeter, you should see the amperage use go from zero to at least 2.5 amps after you turn on the broil, then gas valve should open. (the flat ignitors actually require at least a 3.2 amp minimum) Very unlikely the electronic control has anything to do with your problem. Low voltage is not real likely if the oven ignitor is working. Most likely you have a bad ignitor or a poor electrical connection.
Turn off the gas to the range. Place a amp meter on the wire between the ignitor and the broil gas valve. Turn the control to broil. If the amp draw is between 2.5 and 3.0 the gas valve is the problem. This is for round ignitors. If the ignitor is flat,the amp draw should be 2.8 to 3.7.
The control board is the least likely problem.
Testimonial: "Thanks much for the suggestion. I will try it tomorrow and hopefully we can broil again. Good job!"
Corrosion can occur on the gas valve terminals as well as a loose connection. Remove the wires from the Broil gas valve and clean the terminals. Make sure the terminal connectors are tight. If not,either adjust them with pliers or replace the terminals.Check the wires back to their respective sources for defects.(ERC and neutral input.)
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Hi,
This would also go for the broiler also...
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
dfasfdas
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
gfgshg
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The tech put a meter on each wire leading to the igniter and they only read 1 amp or ohm (?). Yes, the igniter is round and the same style as the original. Two weeks ago I changed the igniter for a cost of $35.00 plus my time. When it didn't light the broiler I called this company. The tech did mention to me that he was trained in HVAC and not appliance repair. I lacked confidence in his ability yet had to pay $75.00 for the service call and his assurances of 99.5% that the Timer ERC was defective. I can get this part for around $160.00 on the internet but am hesitant to make the purchase
without confidence.
Have not checked the line voltage but will do so tomorrow.
The Timer ERC controls all the oven functions. Everything works except the broiler. (We ruled out the thermostat because the bake function works great).
Thanks for your assistance.
Since the bake igniter works fine, doesn't that rule out a low voltage problem to the oven? What is preventing the broiler igniter from getting the power that it needs to open the gas valve?
$275 to change an igniter? Holly @%*&# ! Bat Man. Did he test to see how many amps the igniter was using? How about your line voltage? If you have low voltage (say below 115) you'll have trouble getting enough amperage draw to open up the safety valve. You still may have a poor igniter (even the new one). Was the replacement igniter the same syle as the original? (Both either having a rectangular metal or both round metal sheild over the part that actually glows) (Line voltage can vary from day to day and time of day) Better get a firm quote on what the cost will be to repair. Not sure what "control unit" he was refering to. A safety valve, maybe, but an electronic part, NO. I'd consider finding another repair person.
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