Kenmore 70series top loader: end of spin cycle the

The drum is controlled by a breaking system at the bottom of it. It is the agitator in the center that does most of the work during wash and rinse. The drum would spin very fast during spin cycle.

Check if the solenoid for brake control is working. Check that the drive belt is not sagged. It should be tensioned correctly.

I have a similar problem with a Kenmore top loader washing machine.It turned out a problem with the main shaft of the drum; it wears out and caused drag on it. at one point i installed a washer or spacer between the shaft and drum it worked for a while and the problem came back again. it is a mechanical problem and it is present with other brands that share the same drum and shaft.
Finally I end up buying a different brand this time a LG .

387780 does not seem to be a valid model number.
If you can locate the model number enter it here at sears Parts Direct.
Parts for Brands Craftsman GE Kenmore Whirlpool and more

Link to videos about washer not spinning.
top loader kenmore washer won spin YouTube

Sounds like the timer is bad

possibly the clutch is slipping, i've heard you can take a #10 washer and put it in one end of your clutch spring caps and that would tighten it up

This assumes that you have a basic Sears / Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washer.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

It sounds as if your brake shoes are worn / damaged.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


I'd pull the drive tube and check the springs, shoes and plastic cam that hooks onto the clutch spring.

Although Sears sells a complete drive tube assembly, you can probably get only the parts you need (shoes) from Whirlpool.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

There is also an excellent PDF document from Whirlpool describing how Direct Drive washers work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

We has the same basic problem with a Kenmore direct drive washer. At the end of the spin cycle we heard a loud noise as the brake stopped the drum from spinning.

Sometimes, what can happen is that the brake will grab the brake drum, like a brake on a car suddenly locking a wheel.

The brake is supposed to slow down and stop the drum without locking.

We were able to spray a small amount of silicone spray inside the brake drum, which allowed the shoes to more gently grab the drum.

See GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

Remove the cabinet and look at the drum directly above the silver colored clutch assembly.

Using an spray can of silicone spray, and a directional tube, spray a very small amount into the brake drum.

This is a problem with the pump being stuck so the motor cant turn the whole thing. Turn the washer on its side, underneath you can acces the pump, which is connected to the motor by two long clips. remove the pump and take out the colg that caused it to get stuck.

I have seen this on the same model recently, try lifting the lid during the neutral drain and reclose, if it engages spin then. then most likely your timer is bad too. The timer after two minutes of "neutral drain" will stop the motor (same effect as lid sw) then restart after a pause with spin/drain. this pause shifts the transmission to its next cycle which is spin. I found burned contacts in timer. Your timer list price is over $100 but easy to replace

it is a problem with the lid switch. check for continuity. if the lid is close , it should have continuity, if you open the lid, it should be open also.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool