Grease leaking into drum under agitator cone

If you're finding grease under the washplate of your Whirlpool top load washer, it's likely that the transmission is leaking. The transmission is responsible for turning the drum during the wash cycle, and if it is leaking, it can cause grease to build up under the washplate. Here are a few steps you can take:

1. Check the transmission oil level: The first step is to check the oil level in the transmission. If the oil level is low, it could indicate a leak.
2. Check for leaks: Look for any visible leaks coming from the transmission. If there are leaks, it's best to take it to a qualified repair technician.
3. Clean the washplate and drum: Clean the washplate and drum with warm soapy water and a soft cloth. Be sure to remove any debris or buildup that may have accumulated.
4. Check the transmission oil seal: the oil seal may be the cause of the leak, if it's damaged or worn out, it will need to be replaced by a professional technician.

It's important to keep in mind that the transmission is a complex component, and if you're not comfortable working with it, it's best to consult a professional technician for further diagnosis and repair.
It's also important to note that some of these steps require a certain level of mechanical knowledge and experience. If you're not comfortable with checking these items, it's best to consult a professional repair technician if i was able to help my cashapp $ralphpapi thank you have a blessing day

Hi,

The bearings are pre-loaded with grease but a smear of lithium grease can be used to ease fitting into the spider.The howling could be possibly because of the drum bearings.If your machine is making a rumbling noise as the drum turns then you most likely have an issue with the drum bearings. It's possible that normal use can allow water to get to the bearings. Remove the washing machine belt and manually turn the drum. If you hear a rumble as you turn the drum then problem is the ball bearings. Remove and replace them with new ones.Not knowing if your Simpson is a direct drive through a multi -speed gear box or another method, that makes it hard to give you a definitive answer. In my experience with earlier Simpson Washing machines the agitator should lift off the Splined shaft in the bowl by gripping the bottom of the agitator on the bottom edge using both hands at 180o between them, basically one opposite the other and trying to lift the agitator off vertically straight up until it clears the splined shaft and above the top lip of the bowl at which time you can remove it from the bowl. Be careful it doesn't give way suddenly as you maybe leaning over the bowl and with the force you sometimes have to exert it might come up and strike you hard around your facial region. If the agitator either has never been lifted off or a long period of time since it was then you may have to "wiggle" the agitator whilst attempting to lift the thing of the drive shaft. Once you have removed the agitator clean and re grease the splined drive shaft with suitable grease, not too much only a smear as too much will melt and leach into the bowl and hence you'll have greasy marks on the washing. Clean out the female splined section of the agitator and again a thin film of grease should be rubbed on the female splines. Replace the agitator on the shaft and make sure it's fully the length of the shaft as it will ride up and attempt to come of the drive shaft whilst the machine is operating if it's not seated correctly. If you think there are / is foreign objects beneath the agitator that seldom happens but sometimes it can with small articles. The problem of noisy agitators can be caused by worn bearings in the drive gear box which in turn allows the agitator to move sideways a bit and that then can grind on the bottom of the bowl under the agitator or even allow a small piece of cloth to get under the agitator etc. I doubt the unit would be driven by a belt directly connected to another pulley on the agitator but only a sub bowl inspection can prove that. I've never come across a Simpson that doesn't have a 2 speed direct drive gear box for the agitator and the spin dryer.

Note:- if you aren't sure about the greasing i would recommend you to contact the company's technician.

Hope this solves your problem.Please rate me if it helped you.

Regards,
bonefirediv.

There are only two places where Food Grade Grease is used: In the
Transmission Housing (normally installed with a gasket) and in the Planetary
Assembly (Agitator gear). Over times, the grease will get hot and turn into liquid.
The Beater shaft has an O-ring to prevent oil from leaking down, but there is
nothing to prevent oil from the Planetary from making its way down your mix.
Depending which model you have, it's time to open up your mixer, clean out
all the oil and replace it with fresh Kitchenaid Food Grade Grease.

As bearings fail, this happens, presuming the grease was not on clothes in the first place. It takes special tools to repair this issue.

This is going to sound silly. Buy a bearing packer. This device is not expensive and should be available at just about any auto parts store.

It is a fairly simple device. It looks like two shallow cones mounted on a shaft. The bottom cone is fixed and the top cone unscrews from off the shaft. The shaft itself is hollow with a grease fitting on top. Just remove the top cone, place the bearing on the bottom cone and screw on the top cone firmly, but not over-tight. Attach a grease gun loaded with the desired grease and pump the handle until you see grease come out the sides. At that point, the bearing should be fully packed.

Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
   
2. Remove the wheels.
   
3. Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
   
4. Remove the hub grease cap.
   
5. Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
   
7. Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
   
8. Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
   
9. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
    

To install:

1. Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
   
2. If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
   

If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.

1. Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
   
2. Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
   
3. Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
   

Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.

1. Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
   
2. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
   
3. Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
   
4. Install the new cotter pin.
   
5. Install hub grease cap.
   
6. Install brake drum or disc.
   
7. Install the wheels.
   
8. Lower the vehicle.
   

If it leaked oil or grease out for any reason, this is a serious problem and it's time for this machine to be replaced. It has grease in the transmission that is sealed with no way to leak unless it is worn out. If it leaked then this grease will get inside the drum and your clothing will be contaminated.

Grease is leaking into the drum under the agitator cone.

Remove the agitator cone. There will likely be a removable plastic piece with an O-ring. Oil could be leaking out of the O-ring into the washer, and water could be leaking into the bearings. If there is damage to the O-ring replace it, or if there is a bunch of schmag that is compromising the seal, clean it out, and re-install everything. This solved the problem in my washer; hopefully it works for you.

grease coming out the planitary on bottom normally means it needs taken apart completley cleaned out of old grease and new seal and newer stile spacer seal goes around with the O-ring on it. and factory grease. the noise impossble from here to tell.

if your washer has a slight rumble noise when on the spin then it is most likely that your bearings are on there way out,what it is is the bearings have grease in them and once the bearings start to go this grease starts to leak into the drum which is what the brown spots are it also leaks at the back around the bearing at the back of your outer drum and also leaks onto the floor this will need fixing by a domestic appliance engineer but it is sometimes cheaper to replace the washing machine