Westinghouse transfer switch when placing switch in auto position nr relay chatters and will not pull in. i removed relay and placed fluke meter 87V in coil pins relays are 12vdc coils tested voltage when switch placed in auto 7.1vdc voltage isn't high enough to pull contacts in but can't find where the voltage is actually being stepped down and changed to dc voltage no rectifiers are found inside switch just nt1 and et1 transformers.

needs adjustment, send it in for service to Fluke

send for service to fluke (microprocessor chip faulty)

check battery contacts and make sure that batteries are in correct position - other than that you will have to return unit for service

you can try to rebuild it your self there very easy

here are a few thing to try first

Starter Motor Does Not Operate or Does Not Turn Engine Over
1. Engine run switch in OFF position.
2. Ignition switch not in IGNITION position.
3. Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections (solenoid chatters).
4. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
5. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or overrunning clutch slipping.
6. Bank Angle Sensor tripped and ignition switch not cycled OFF then back to IGNITION position.
7. Security system activated.
8. Motorcycle in gear and clutch not pulled in.
9. Main fuse not in place.
10. Jiffy stand down and transmission in gear.

Hello! I need to know if the fuel pump relay is pulling...If you have a volt meter the easiest place to test is at the inertia switch...Also known as the fuel cut-off switch...If the switch needs to be reset there will be a light on the dash...The switch is located on the toe board to the right of the transmission hump, in the passenger foot well...Wire colors are...Dark Green/Yellow...Pink/Black...And Gray/Orange...Set meter to read +12 volts...Pull connector plug from switch...Place + probe of meter on the Dark green/Yellow...Place - probe to ground...With key in the on position you must read +12 volts on that wire...If not the fuel pump relay is not pulling...Send a comment and I'll take it from there...Guru..Saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

The problem is definitely not the motor but rather the motor relay or the electronic control. Either the motor relay is not working to close the motor circuit or the electronic control is not powering up the motor relay to serve its function.

The motor relay and the heater relay are identical and can be used interchangeably. The heater relay may be used in place of the motor relay if the dryer heats up when the start switch is held on. It indicates that the heater relay is working.

Disconnect power to the dryer then pull the end cap trims off then remove the control panel securing screws. Once the screws are removed, rotate the control panel up to the rear of the dryer.



Disconnect the wires and remove the relays then put each in the place of the other. Refer to the component layout diagram for the location of the relays.




Reconnect the wires then rotate the control panel down back into position then plug the dryer in and start it. The dryer should start and continue to run when the start switch is released since the working heater relay is used but will not heat up indicating that the motor relay is not working. Otherwise the fault is in the electronic control.

Replace the faulty component and it should address the problem. The relay (heater/motor) is part number 3405281 and the electronic control is part number W10116565.

Squeeze on the electronic control mounting bracket as shown then pull the board up to remove.


Insert the new control board and gently press it down into position. Transfer the wires from the old board to the new board one at a time.


Simply unscrew the relay to be replaced then secure the new one into position and transfer the wires.

Rotate the control panel down and secure it back into position to complete the repair.

could be a fuse, a relay or possibly your light switch in the car is malfunctioning .
also check the dimmer switch if every thing seems fine.it has to be checked with a meter and continuity tester.
its a minor problem of a short or loose wire but it has to be checked.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

HI. There should be an access panel on the backside of your unit. gain access to the main control board, and observe the board, during actions. If the clicking is originating from the board, itself, simply replace the board. Now, if the clicking is originating from the compressor relay/overload, replace the compressor relay/overload start switch.

THE RELAY

The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each modle). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.

I install and work on these everyday. If you hooked up the transfer switch you probable have a control wire wrong. check the utility power sense wire. That lets it no when to start in auto. it could be a relay or fuses. or a control board.