Need to remove case to access CCD coupling which appears loose (pic blacks out and reappears if lens is pushed in). All obvious screws out - back panel still holds fast at top near viewfinder.

Iris is not opening so that its black.Problem might be be for lens cable contact it need to clean.

The iris is probably shut closed or the CCD is bad. The iris controls the amount of light that enters the CCD (charged coupled device). Sometime the iris get moisture inside and cannot open. Or the CCD is defective. Leave it in a dry environment for a day. If it doesn't cure then return it to the store for a refund because the CCD will need to be removed and replaced.

Do these "stains" only appear on flash pics? Are they always in different places on each pic? If so, these are dust particles reflecting the flash back to the lens.

Hi,
Looks like dust must have gotten onto the CCD sensor (or, more specifically, onto IR-cut filter on the sensor). The dust enters the lens through the gaps between zoom barrels and sometimes ends up on the sensor-which is what most probably happened here.
There are 2 ways I know to remove the dust. 1st way-it might sound silly, but try sucking the dust from the camera with your mouth around the closed lens :) Make sure you don't blow any air in. This worked for me a few times. Note that sometimes it might make the problem worse as you might move other dust particles onto the sensor.
If 1st way didn't help then you can try directly blowing the dust off the sensor. This should only be attempted if you're happy with partial dismantling your camera and are ok taking the risk of ruining the camera further. Although in my opinion lumix cameras are generally fairly easy to repair, you will need steady hands and patience to attempt this. If you are happy to proceed, do the following:
1. unscrew the screws holding the back of the case
2. lift the case carefully a bit making sure you don't break the ribbon cables going to LCD and backlight
3. undo the LCD and backlight ribbons (there are black flaps on the connectors, these gently flip upwards)
4. gently remove upped logic board. Try to pry it in stages from all sides, don't just pry it up in one go from one side or you might damage the connector. (I learned the hard way ;)
5. on the bottom logic board you'll see 2 connectors, undo the upper one to release the ribbon going to the sensor (note that this is not absolutely necessary if you're happy cleaning the sensor without disconnecting it-it can be done, the ribbon is relatively robust.)
6. the sensor is held by 3 tiny star screws. if you don't have the exact screwdriver you should be able to use a small flat screwdriver to carefully unscrew them. Do the screws bit by bit, i.e. unscrew 1st one a bit, then unscrew 2nd one a bit, and so on
7. there is a small spring underneath the sensor assembly, make sure you don't lose it :)
8. once the screws are undone you have access to the sensor-lift it up. Under good light you should be able to see the dust bits. Use a blower to get rid of them.
9. that should be it. put the camera back together. figers crossed it will power up and the dust problem will be gone :)
NB. You might have come accross horror stories of people being electrocuted by flash capacitors when repairing cameras. This might indeed happen. It's not easy with FX8 though: To get electrocuted here you would need to undo the top plate, unscrew the switch logic board and remove protective tape off the flash circuit, then touch the capacitor contacts :) Don't do it of course. Not worth it.
Good luck,
Raf

Hi,
Affraid that offer was for the DX6490, Ive never had a C513 (plenty of C3xx and C6xx though) on the bench. But, most of the C series are fairly straight forward.
This is generic C series info, yours will differ, there may be speakers in the way mic wires etc so proceed with caution and keep a lookout

read all of this before starting

first you need to take static precautions, using a metal strapped watch or something metal around your wrist connect yourself to earth, a good place is your computer case (it dose'nt need to be on, just plugged in), loosen a screw and wrap a piece of wire round it then the other around your wrist.

undo all the screws in the camera (the 6490 is the only one Ive found so far with hidden screws so shouldn't be a problem there).
The front and rear casings should now un clip and leave you with the chassis if the front case wont come away, look for a screw down a hole, often behind the LCD (on other kodaks not usually c series).
Keep an eye on the bars and springs retaining the battery and memory card door they tend to spring off and get lost, also note how they are positioned

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE, Before starting leave the camera a couple of days with no batteries in (or follow the discharging instructions). Once open locate the flash capacitor (big black tube with 2 wires) and take a voltage reading, if its still high (50v or higher) put it down and come back to it tomorrow or using INSULATED clips connect a 20k ohm 1 watt resistor across it for a while that will pull it down.
If your in too much of a rush that cap will bite and hard, 350v (10,000v if you touch the transformer) when the flash is freshly charged and if it bites its likely to fry the camera too, as well as that your guaranteed to drop it.

Ok so now the camera is safe to work on, if you haven't already remove the LCD, then remove all the screws retaining the main board. Most C series cameras have several ribbon cables and the battery posts are soldered through the main board, you need to un-clip all the cables and de-solder the battery connections, also loosen the switch board (on top) as there is usually a connector hidden that will just pull apart but it needs a bit of movement.

Now the ccd (image sensor) some are on a ribbon cable (but you will be able to see that) some are mounted on the back of the board. some will come away ok with the board others have a pair of extra screws through holes in the board, if the board is being reluctant (but be carefull) at the lens end have a closer look for screws through holes in the board near the lens. Pull the board away carefully as the IR filter will either stick to the ccd and may drop off or it will stay in the hole in the back of the lens, there should be a little square rubber gadget, again don't loose it and for goodness sake don't touch the class filter or the ccd a fingerprint will ditch it.
if the ccd is on the main board put the board in a clean plastic bag and put a little piece of tape over the hole in the back of the lens, especially if the filter is still in there as you may need it later and you want to keep it clean

If it is the ribbon cable type, you should now have the board off and be able to get to the 2 or 3 screws that hold the main lens assembly in place, remove them and carefully jiggle the lens free, keep an eye out for the ribbon cables their very easy to damage.

fit the new lens assembly and screw it in place.
get a clear plastic (to prevent dust contaminating the lens and sensor) bag big enough to get the camera and your hands in and put the camera chassis and the old lens in it, (if ccd is on a ribon) unscrew the screws holding the ccd in place and swap them over
remembering that there should be a rubber gasket on the ccd then the infra red filter in the hole the ccd goes in

You can skip the ccd swap if you like but I cant guarantee that the colour and contrast will be the same as it was, Ive not had a problem when swapping them but strictly the camera should be calibrated for the new ccd and you wont have the equipment or software to do that. I always keep the same ccd with its main board where possible.

now its a reverse operation to put it back together, don't forget to re-solder the battery contacts.

Best of luck

push the "EASY Q" button. After a few minutes it popped up and started working again. Problem is, after 5 minutes it went to black again
surgery that it had a bad CCD and possibly the CCD control board. In any case you can find both at tigerdirect.partsearch.com with part# AD97-08366A. This is the CCD and Board assembly and is around $56.00. If you think that you might just need the Control Board then its part# is AD97-08367A and is around $19.00. In any case neither operation requires any soldering as the ribbon cables just unclip from their sockets. *Before proceeding with this surgery make sure that you take note to where all the screws you remove go back. Also be sure to remove all screws completely.
Step 1 (Front Cover Removal): Remove battery then remove top silver screw just in front of the "nite pix" switch. Then lift the DVI cover to locate and remove the second silver screw. Then, with the camera lens and light facing you roll the front cover to the right(it can only really roll one way) while pulling the front cover at the same time. Its held in by a clip. When its free disconnect the light connector if it hasn't already come off during the front cover removal.
Step 2 (Splitting the Case): Remove five(5) silver screws from the bottom. If you count them there are a total of eight(8) so remove all EXCEPT the one screw at the tripod boss AND the two screws on the tape door. Next, proceed to remove the two black screws located in the battery tray in the back. Then flip the camera so you are looking at the hand strap, DVI cover, etc... Locate the two black screws by the "Slow Shutter" switch and remove. Next, flip up the eye piece and remove only the right screw. *Be sure to remove this screw completely because it is held in place by a threaded stud plate and it could fall out and bounce into that other dimension where all important little things go. The case should now be ready to split. Gently work the case in two and pay attention to the ribbon cables as you separate the two halves.
Step 3 (CCD and Board removal) The CCD and Control Board are removed as one unit. Remove all ribbon cables attached to the board. If the ribbon cable socket has a long brown bar across the top flip it up and remove the cable. If it has two brown buttons on the left and right of it then pull each button out and remove cable. *Take note to the orientation of the cable in the socket ie up or down. Unplug any remaining power wire sockets on the board. The board itself is held in by two(2) screws. Locate and remove these screws and lift the CCD and Control Board Unit out.

CONGRADULATIONS !

For installation, read these instructions backwards.good luck
please mark the post with a fixya

I just replaced the switch just yesterday.First remove the glass panel by pushing back the 2 black clips at the top end,then remove 2 silver screws at the top and 3 at the bottom also remove 2 black screws behind side panels on the top. Now push side panels slightly up and forward and it fill fall forward and now replace the switch.

Fixing Your Samsung SCD107 Camcorder by bawhitmer
push the "EASY Q" button. After a few minutes it popped up and started working again. Problem is, after 5 minutes it went to black again
surgery that it had a bad CCD and possibly the CCD control board. In any case you can find both at tigerdirect.partsearch.com with part# AD97-08366A. This is the CCD and Board assembly and is around $56.00. If you think that you might just need the Control Board then its part# is AD97-08367A and is around $19.00. In any case neither operation requires any soldering as the ribbon cables just unclip from their sockets.
*Before proceeding with this surgery make sure that you take note to where all the screws you remove go back. Also be sure to remove all screws completely.
Step 1 (Front Cover Removal): Remove battery then remove top silver screw just in front of the "nite pix" switch. Then lift the DVI cover to locate and remove the second silver screw. Then, with the camera lens and light facing you roll the front cover to the right(it can only really roll one way) while pulling the front cover at the same time. Its held in by a clip. When its free disconnect the light connector if it hasn't already come off during the front cover removal.
Step 2 (Splitting the Case): Remove five(5) silver screws from the bottom. If you count them there are a total of eight(8) so remove all EXCEPT the one screw at the tripod boss AND the two screws on the tape door. Next, proceed to remove the two black screws located in the battery tray in the back. Then flip the camera so you are looking at the hand strap, DVI cover, etc... Locate the two black screws by the "Slow Shutter" switch and remove. Next, flip up the eye piece and remove only the right screw. *Be sure to remove this screw completely because it is held in place by a threaded stud plate and it could fall out and bounce into that other dimension where all important little things go. The case should now be ready to split. Gently work the case in two and pay attention to the ribbon cables as you separate the two halves.
Step 3 (CCD and Board removal) The CCD and Control Board are removed as one unit. Remove all ribbon cables attached to the board. If the ribbon cable socket has a long brown bar across the top flip it up and remove the cable. If it has two brown buttons on the left and right of it then pull each button out and remove cable. *Take note to the orientation of the cable in the socket ie up or down. Unplug any remaining power wire sockets on the board. The board itself is held in by two(2) screws. Locate and remove these screws and lift the CCD and Control Board Unit out.

CONGRADULATIONS !

For installation, read these instructions backwards.

You can open the camera, be very careful to discharge or avoid the flash, IT HURTS!. From there, you can access the LCD assembly, if you take that off, you should be able to access the back of the lens. On the lens is a CCD assembly that is fastened down usually by star screws. The dot might be on the CCD, you can try cleaning that, or else if you remove the CCD that gives you access to the back part of the lens.
Good luck!

hi sounds like the screw that holds the ccd is gone but its inside you say it all works good....? put a SMALL!!! drop of "superglue" it will hold nice good luck