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Posted on Oct 17, 2009
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Compressor failed replaced the entire condensing unit charged with 24 oz of 404A per name plate pressures not right added 404A till I got 9,5 suction and 260 head temp of freezer was 40F this morning it was 50F need to know suprtheat and normal operation pressures this is a cap tube system

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  • toolman001 Oct 17, 2009

    This afternoon the unit only pulled down to 20F head was down as well as suction. Iadded some 404A and got the head to 270 and suction to 10 still need superheat on this unit.

  • toolman001 Oct 17, 2009

    More info no burnout, dryer changed, vacuum for 1hour unit warm pulled to 167microns and held
    new 404A charged liquid


  • toolman001 Oct 18, 2009

    As stated this was not a burn out 404A has to be charged as a liquid and flashed to a vapor and yes at 25 psiga 404a is at -10 F however to take in consideration the delta T of the evaporator the suction would be lower. My question is and has been from the very start what is the design superheat of this system and what are normal suction pressures?
    I am beginning to feel as if your web site is not so good

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christian nielsen

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  • Posted on Oct 18, 2009
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When replacing a condensing unit , also must replace the dryer and vaccum the system for about 45 minutes and after that recharge it with scale for the right amount of freon written on the tag in the freezer .The normal operation pressures are between 50 to 60 psi for the suction side and about 350 no more than 375 psi for the high side.To calculate the superheat: suction line temp - evaporator temp= superheat.

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  • Posted on Oct 17, 2009
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I have reviewed your problem and it seems to me, that your head pressure is a little to high as well as your suction side pressure being too low.
It may be that your system has not settled down and or may be overcharged or could be due to a restriction in the cap tube.
I'm sure that you pulled a long vacuum on the unit and dryers has been replaced.
If the unit has had a burnout, did you flush the system or just vacuum..
Hope this information has been of some help.
Please rate....
P.S. you know, it could just be that the oil has not completely settled, but should with system running for a few hours.

  • Anonymous Oct 18, 2009

    Well, OK.

    Here is where your mistake was.

    1. If the compressor failure was a burnout, you should have flushed out the system before running a 1 hour vacuum.

    2. One hour would be OK for a regular change out but once the oil brakes down, it becomes contaminated and as you know the oil is the hardest to remove.

    3. I would never charge a system liquid, unless of course you were using a metering canister to inject the refrigerant.

    I have always gone by the label when it comes to the charge and for my applications, I always flushed my systems with 502, after a burnout.

    Sound like it may be one of those that just has to settle down.

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  • Posted on Oct 18, 2009
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You suction pressure should be right at 25 lbs for the temp of -10 degrees.

  • Anonymous Oct 18, 2009

    Your suction pressure should be 25 lbs. and your superheat should be around 18 degrees and your supercool should be around 8 degrees. Sorry about leaving the superheat off last night, I had to leave on an emergency service call. Good luck.

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I replaced compressor for a hussman refrig and its hums loud

God day,
Some thoughts.
1. Are the evap fan motors running, and at full speed. That would give you abnormally low suction pressure.
2. Cap tube sized too small. or partial restriction in the dryer cap tube/dryer when brazing in the lines.
3. Low ambient. What's the temp the machine is running in.
4. Over sized compressor.
5. Moisture. God, 134A is touchy on that one.
6. Was original cap tube soldered to the suction line to create a heat exchanger. Needed on many apps. Definately would cause flash back on start up.
7. Superheat a little low, should be 12 to 15 degrees.
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Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.
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