Will not aquire a target over 400 yards - Leica LRF 1200 Laser Rangefinder

If you want to buy a rangefinder then you would have a question at some point. Can you use a rangefinder for both golfing and hunting? Can you save a few bucks buying one rangefinder?
The answer is Yes, you can. You can use a laser rangefinder for both activities if you choose a smart device that has features to serve both golfing and hunting adequately. You just need to know the basic differences between golf and hunting rangefinders and some limitations.
Fast of all you have to know, what is golf rangefinder and hunting rangefinder.
Golf Rangefinder Golf rangefinders seek for the nearest flag stick for the measuring the distance in an open field.
Hunting Rangefinder The rangefinders always are in "Distant Target Mode" by default to spot wildlife in wooden terrains. This target set automatically ignores close objects that could obstruct your view.

Here I wrote the 3 difference, you should remember that:

1. First Target And Distant Target Modes
Golfers need "First Target Mode" to detect the near objects like flag or pin in an open golf ground. Hunting rangefinders rarely good at detecting close objects. For hunting, "Distant Target Mode" is appropriate to range a target past the wood. Modern rangefinders come with toggling options between both first target and distant target modes, but they are expensive.
2.Quick And Accurate Reading
Golfing rangefinders detect the object quickly, and hunting rangefinders give the accurate reading. It is true that golf rangefinders do not need to be as precise as hunting one. Hunters want to make sure that their prey can be perfectly located.
3. Magnification Strength
You might be aware of the fact that Hunting rangefinders always have more magnification than the Golf Rangefinders. Golfers need the distance of the next hole, which could be maximum 400 yards. For the bow hunters and hunting, 400 yards rangefinders are also appropriate. In case of rifle hunting or long-distance shooting sports, you will be needed maximum 1000 to 1500 yards ranges.

Now you know what the basic differences between the golf and hunting rangefinders are. You can start choosing your suitable one.

Multiplication is your friend

Page 5 of the manual states: RANGING ACCURACY The ranging accuracy of the Scout™1000 is plus or minus one yard / meter under most circumstances. The maximum range of the instrument depends on the reflectivity of the target. The maximum distance for most objects is 650 yards / 594 meters while for highly reflective objects the maximum is 1000 yards / 914 meters. Note: You will get both longer and shorter maximum distances depending on the reflective properties of the particular target and the environmental conditions at the time the distance of an object is being measured. The color, surface finish, size and shape of the target all affect reflectivity and range. The brighter the color, the longer the range. White is highly reflective, for example, and allows longer ranges than the color black, which is the least reflective color. A shiny finish provides more range than a dull one. A small target is more difficult to range than a larger target. The angle to the target also has an effect. Shooting to a target at a 90 degree angle (where the target surface is perpendicular to the flight path of the emitted energy pulses) provides good range while a steep angle on the other hand, provides limited ranging. In addition, lighting conditions (e.g. the amount of sunlight) will affect the ranging capabilities of the unit. The less light (e.g. overcast skies) the farther the unit's maximum range will be. Conversely, very sunny days will decrease the unit's maximum range.

The difference you are experiencing (20-19.2=.8 yards) is within the device ranging accuracy of 1 yard, and is in fact an error of only 4%. That is pretty accurate

In case you have lost your manual, you can download from here:
http://bushnell.com/getmedia/1761b4a2-f4d9-45f7-b1d3-1e400fead84a/REVISE-20-1932-20-19426LIM.pdf?ext=.pdf

Good luck with your device.

The laser lense or receiver may need to be cleaned try a larger target at closer range.... they don't like dark colors... blk bear is really hard to target and u usually have to select a target close to bear... same as dark colored deer.... the laser gets absorbed instead of reflected

You need to sight in the scope and rifle to 100 yards then reset the dial making sure the knob as the manual says
do a check sight in
Then you turn on the electronics
the drop number you input is 112 and the BC is 55
as you haven't given an altitude for sight in or shoot site I have allowed for them being equal
you now shoot at a target at 400 yards and for each inch below or above the aim point add or subtract 6 from the drop number
drop number entered is 112 and your shot is 4 inches low
4x6=24 so your new drop number is 136
and if 4 inches high the drop number is 4x-6=-24 new drop number 88 so you now change the inputted drop number to the ones you have and shoot a few groups at 400 to confirm point of impact and aim point and adjust accordingly
Forgot to explain that the 112 drop number is the calculated drop for your round at 750 yards and that you are changing it by confirming the actual drop at 400 and the scope is calculating internally for 750

Hold the back button down until it changes (meters to yards or vice versa). Momentarily push the back button to step through the modes (rain, reflectice, >150, no text=<150). To use turn on with front button, aquire target and hold down front button for 3 seconds

I think the mildots only go so far, you have to do your homework on these things. Your 22.250 zeroed in at 100 yrds, velocity 3800, drops 7.4 inches at 300 yards, and 37 inches at 500 yards, so your mildots being set at x number of inches per dot, will not hit at 500 yards, your bullet is not enough. Even sighted in at 400 yards, the bullet drops 13.6 inches at 500 yards. But,,, with the same 400 yard zero, at 100,+4.7,200,+7.7,300,+6.6. That is about the flatest you'll get. And your mildots will be set likewise. You know they made the mildot scope for the trajectory of the 308. They changed everything for that bullet.

The Bushnell 3-9X40 has been around for quite some time in several forms, but it is pretty standard to set it like any other scope.

With the gun resting solidly on sand bags or something like a Lead Sled, shoot at a target with a 1" grid on it. Those targets are a free download at http://targetz.com/, but you have to browse to find them. Targets No: 10049 or 10058 are both usable, if you can see a 1" aiming point with a 9 power scope at 200 yards.

With a known point of impact (POI) at 200 yards, you can move the POI to where you want it (inside the caps at the center of the scope, there are adjusting screws or slots). The norm is 1/4" per click (the adjuster can usually be felt to click) at 100 yards or four 1/4" clicks for an inch. At 200 yards, the adjustment will be twice what it is at 100 yards or 1/2" per click.

Make your adjustments, using the grid on the target to tell you how many inches it needs to move, and shoot the target again to confirm the adjustment is correct. It's pretty standard to shoot at least a three shot group to ensure the bullets are reasonably close to each other.

Another method is to set the POI at a certain number of inches high at 100 yards and assume it's right at 200 yards. If the mid range trajectory, for your cartridge, at 200 yards is X inches high at 100 yards, you can set your POI to that X inches high and be pretty close at 200 yards.

Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

If you are indoors then move outdoors to get a signal.

If you are outdoors then move your location by a few yards and sometimes it will suddenly aquire the satellites.

Happens occasionally with my unit. I normally set a route up then start driving and it suddenly starts to work OK.
HTH
Peter