In trying to figure out why my new Schwinnn Airdriver 1100 wouldn't pump (the lever problem pbumgardner had), I removed the plastic collar on the nozzle. I can't get it back on because the plastic threads got cross-threaded. Can one get replacement parts? If not, can I just screw it on cross-threaded and glue it with GOOP? I only anticipate using it in my Physics class & Science Olympiad for pressurizing water bottle rockets.

I am not familiar with the model. The fuel pump is generally found in the fuel tank and access is often via a cover under the rear seat but sometimes the fuel tank must be removed.

I really wanted to inject a note of caution. Plastic fuel tanks aren't unusual and the fuel pump and fuel gauge sensor are often retained by a screwed plastic collar, like the lid of a coffee jar. Beware of plastic fuel tanks that have been in service for a while - once the collar is removed the neck of the fuel tank tends to grow and in the matter of a few minutes it can be impossible to refit the collar.

Speed is the key to success - get the pump out and refit the collar immediately until it is time to put the pump back. I know people who have failed to take this precaution who have needed to replace the fuel tank.

This pump is a bit strange to use. The valve in the filler head is odd in that it controls the flow of air in both direction...which is not a great design in my opinion...but it does allow for use in different filling applications. The trick is getting the pump into its different filling "modes"

For a Schrader bike valve:
1. Make sure the pump is in "tire mode" by blowing into the valve with your mouth. If you then pump the handle you should feel air filling your mouth.
2. Put the "locking lever" in the unlocked position, the unlocked position is when the silver metal lever is parallel to the air hose, or said another way it makes an "L" with the air outlet that goes on the tire air filling stem. To verify this is correct, look in the air outlet and move the lever from locked to un-locked, you will see slight change in the diameter of the outlet.
3. Push the air filler hole over the schrader valve really hard and make sure it is seated all the way down. Close the "locking lever" (silver metal lever should now be perpendicular to the air house and be in line with the air outlet... i.e. point straight out away from the tire filler stem.
4. Pump.

For a Presta bike valve:
1. Make sure the pump is in "tire mode" again.
2. Take off plastic caps off presta valves on bike tire.
3. Unscrew the little nut on the presta stem to allow the tire valve to open when pressure is applied (you can test this by pushing the stem in a little and air should escape, the nut holds the valve closed, so it needs to be loosened).
4. Take the adapter from the locking lever (silver metal lever) on the pump and screw it on the presta valve. The adapter is the brass looking thing. Screw the rubber gasketed side down on the presta valve.
5. Press the air pump tire filler outlet onto the adapter.
6. Close the locking lever to seal the filler head on the adapter.
7. Pump.
8. Unlock the locking lever and pull it off quickly.
9. Unscrew the presta adapter and screw down the presta valve nut but just finger tight.
10. Screw on the plastic cover cap for the presta valve.

To Fill a Ball:
1. Twist the ball pin filler out by rotating the gray plastic tab around until the ball pin filler is pointing straight out (in-line with the air hose).
2. Make sure the pump is in "Ball mode" by again blowing into the filler. Sometimes shaking the filler valve really hard is necessary.
3. Put the filler pin into a ball.
4. Pump.

Hope this helps.

If it wont stay on that typically means that the inside of the valve is too worn out.

Sounds like the retaining ring under the handle may need to tighten a little to stiffen lever a little. To remove handle take plastic red/blue cap at base of lever covering the screw. Remove allen screw that holds handle to base with a allen wrench.

Try to tighten collar that holds the stem for the lever and that should help with the lever. if not the gasket that's under the collar maybe wore to the point that tightening want effect it.

If you need a parts diagram go to this link for an exploded view of the internal parts. I hope this will be helpful to you.

http://www.needplumbingsupplies.com/Danze/Specs/D403412_Inst.pdf page 4 has a breakdown.

Try their trouble shooting guide found here:

http://www.switchbladenozzles.com/trouble_shooting.htm

I have a used unit with the same problem. If you remove the plastic housing piece on the far left you can see how the foot lifter works. Raising the lever raises a collar around the main shaft. There is a screw in that collar which connects the collar with the shaft. If that screw is loose the collar will not raise the shaft. Caution: Tighten the screw very carefully, only enough so that the shaft lifts. I just overtightened and the collar has a crack now.

There are two styles of valves on bicycle inner tubes. The commonly used style is called Presta, and it is characterized by a thin, threaded brass stem with a head that has a threaded pin in it. This has a small nut pressed on that must be unscrewed to fill it with air. The other style (which resembles the valves on a car's tire) is called Schrader. Bicycle air pumps can handle both styles, but some require a reconfiguration of the pump's valve to make the change from one style to the other. This involves unscrewing the head and removing the parts inside. The details on these processes and the styles of valves on your bicycle will be found in the air pump manual.

Could this help?

1. Have the lever on the pump head pushed down, flat against the pump head.
   
2. Push the pump head FIRMLY onto the tire valve.
3. While still pushing firmly, flip the pump head lever up to lock the pump head onto the tire valve.
4. Inflate to desired pressure.
   
5. When finished, push the pump head lever back down and pull the pump head off the tire valve.

(Once you hook the pump up to your tire and start pumping, the back pressure will switch the flow to the bike valve output.)

Got this post off this web site...I just replaced my swivel and it worked:
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/answers/Answers.action#l4q110567
To install a new swivel assembly, you will need 2 small, flat tip screw drivers. Unplug the vacuum. Push the screw drivers in between the hose and the collar where you see the seams in the plastic collar on the end where the hose enters the collar. This will release tabs that hold the collar to the swivel. Pry and pull the collar back over the hose and then pull the small screwdrivers out of the collar. Slide the collar back along the hose. Unplug the wiring connections from the hose. Pull the hose wires up and out of the holder on the swivel assembly. Lift the tabs on the side of the hose and pull it off of the swivel. Push the new swivel onto the hose. Align the hose wires and secure them in the holder. Plug the wires from the swivel into the hose wires (blue to blue, white to white). Secure the swivel wires into the wire holder on the swivel assembly. Push the collar back up the hose and onto the swivel with the plastic seams aligned with the tabs on each side of the hose. Snap the collar securely into place.

The black and decker rtx uses the Flip-Lock spindle lock system for attachment changes. At the top of the tool there is a small rubber lever just above the on-off switch. Flip the lever down, and losen the grey collar surrounding the collet. Remove the collar and change the attachment. Then tighten the grey collar, and flip the lever back up. That's all there is to it!