If you are seeing lines and or noise for the first several minutes and it goes away--I think I know what the problem is.
Has the period of time before it clears up been getting longer and longer?
Reply to me with the exact model number and I will tell you what is wrong and what has to be done to fix it.
A lot of these sets have problems with what is called a HYPER board----it controls all signal inside the set--confirm Toshiba and exact model number---
I am here to help people and I do this here for free.
REGARDS, SD TECH
Testimonial: "Very useful and considerate. thankyou"
It is a good model number but I cannot locate any information about it other than features----I suspect it is one of their last projection sets made----
A LOT OF THEIR SETS HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE HYPER BOARD---You may want to contact Toshiba and see what they have to say---
If it is a Hyper board it will not be available---the one in the set will have to be removed and repaired or rebuilt.
SD TECH
It depends on the model number---usually you have to get the board out or the entire chassis out--some of their later sets were a nightmare to get apart--all of these had a very small back cover that only allowed you to look inside---about a foot tall and two feet wide--if you have that one you have real trouble---you are able to apply pressure to the main boards and clear the problem up?
I presume the set has not been shipped or moved recently----be careful if you probe around with it on as there are dangerous voltages present---use something not metal and wear a glove---try to narrow it down to one specific area.
What could be wrong is a bad solder connection or connections---if you get it apart far enough with a Magnifier look carefully at any plugs or connectors where boards plug into the main board.
Remember, I do this here for free so do not forget to rate my information.
SD TECH
Yes, I suspected that--it has Pal etc---not likely you are going to find parts for it here
SD TECH---be careful---no Tv is worth getting hurt over.
Are you telling me the set was shipped from Manila or some place there to here? I would suspect you have a hairline crack---
if the set has the large back cover---you could verify this with a photo---I cannot give MY email address here but you ....
Most of these sets have a large chassis with a plastic frame---if it has this the idea is to unbolt the chassis and flip it up so the bottom of all the boards faces the back of the set--this way you can take a real close look at the boards for any signs of damage or bad connections.
Usually you are going to have to unplug several plugs and release some bundles of wires from ties that hold them to get enough slack on the cables to do this---varies by model---I would try this before you try to just unbolt and remove a single large board--less chance of damage----mark and make a diagram of all the plugs you unplug so you know where they go exactly.
Many times flexing the board in one area will affect a bad connection or crack several inches away--bad connections are one thing--but if there is a crack you need a bright light to see it--if you find a crack I can depending on how long it is--tell you how to fix that--called hard wiring.
SD TECH
I doubt you will be able to get at the boards by laying it on its side unless you intend to cut some wood away---bottom ought to be pressed wood.
SD TECH
unusual for these sets--when you turn it over do it carefully and see what you can find.
SD TECH---I AM IN CALIFORNIA AND WILL RETURN HERE TOMORROW.
Look again to make sure you did not create a new problem--make sure any boards you removed are seated--you understand now why I suggested lifting the chassis instead of what you did.
Make sure you did not miss anything---look for any cracks etc---it is a good idea to clean the board with a small brush with acetone where ever you solder to remove any flux etc.
SD TECH
I have a Toshiba Model # 505810A rear projector that won't stop scrambline for about 15 minutes before it pops on and it good for the rest of the time. Is there a soloution for this problem?
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the model number is 61VH9UE
I got it opened up and found that it an intermittent connection to one of the boards roughly in the middle of the mother board. Can I get to it from the bottom of the set by laying on its side of face? Is there any access there? Or do I have to pull the mother board completely to re-solder any possible cold joints.
The reason you cant find any info on it is because i ma in the Philippines and this is an Asian model. Multi system. I would send photo and manual but cant do via this forum.
Yes, i can tap and flex a couple of boards and see a clear relationship to the problem. It has a large access in the back and the Main board is split into 2 half sections. I dont know how the jumpers work though. How to disconnect?
I really appreciate your help on this.
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Yes, i can tap and flex a couple of boards and see a clear relationship to the problem. It has a large access in the back and the Main board is split into 2 half sections. I dont know how the jumpers work though. How to disconnect?
I really appreciate your help on this.
****
Is it ok to lay(gently on a pad) the whole set on its side for access to the bottom and easier access to to board.
I can handle solder, was once electronics tech. I am also very good at hard wiring. Yes was shipped from manila, but that was 5 years ago. This problem started mildly a few months ago and Ive been waiting for it to get bad enough to trouble shoot.
My Problem is How to handle this monster. It seems like it would easier laying on its side...
I can handle solder, was once electronics tech. I am also very good at hard wiring. Yes was shipped from manila, but that was 5 years ago. This problem started mildly a few months ago and Ive been waiting for it to get bad enough to trouble shoot.
My Problem is How to handle this monster. It seems like it would easier laying on its side...
I can handle solder, was once electronics tech. I am also very good at hard wiring. Yes was shipped from manila, but that was 5 years ago. This problem started mildly a few months ago and Ive been waiting for it to get bad enough to trouble shoot.
My Problem is How to handle this monster. It seems like it would easier laying on its side...
Bottom is a 2x1 foot ventilated steel plate. I might be able to remove it and have total access to the solder side of the board.
I got the board out,(my back really hurts). Went over the joints and sweated any cold looking joints. Removed, cleaned and reinserted all daughter boards. Put back in and fired it up. Worked GREAT ... for 30 minutes.
Then all new look, red is blue and blue is red. Tube Guns are all good because White levels are fine. Over a period of hours colors became normal and bad again. ughh...
Actually I should NOT say all new look. Picture still intermittently scrambles and pops. The red blue shift is sometimes half good lines and half bad within frames. Look is similar but different. It appears to just be progressing thru changes like some chip has a failure slowing evolving; does that make sense?
Actually I should NOT say all new look. Picture still intermittently scrambles and pops. The red blue shift is sometimes half good lines and half bad within frames. Look is similar but different. It appears to just be progressing thru changes like some chip has a failure slowing evolving; does that make sense?
Actually I should NOT say all new look. Picture still intermittently scrambles and pops. The red blue shift is sometimes half good lines and half bad within frames. Look is similar but different. It appears to just be progressing thru changes like some chip has a failure slowing evolving; does that make sense?
Actually I should NOT say all new look. Picture still intermittently scrambles and pops. The red blue shift is sometimes half good lines and half bad within frames. Look is similar but different. It appears to just be progressing thru changes like some chip has a failure slowing evolving; does that make sense?
Actually I should NOT say all new look. Picture still intermittently scrambles and pops. The red blue shift is sometimes half good lines and half bad within frames. Look is similar but different. It appears to just be progressing thru changes like some chip has a failure slowing evolving; does that make sense?
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