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When you say red lever do you mean the drain valve, or the on off switch?. Thanks, PatrickWhen you say red lever do you mean the drain valve, or the on off switch?.
Thanks,
Patrick
After taking it apart, the back wire right behind the fan was not connected anymore. Put on a new clamp and re connected the wire and it fired up. Thanks for your help anyways! Patrick.After taking it apart, the back wire right behind the fan was not connected anymore. Put on a new clamp and re connected the wire and it fired up. Thanks for your help anyways!
Patrick.
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could be a possibility. Clanking or rattling: Loose internal mounts can cause rattling and clanking from the compressor. The sound probably means that the motor has come loose and is moving around inside the sealed compressor can
Size matters if you use pneumatic tools. The tool calls for a minimum amount of CFM (cubic feet per minute of air) and the compressor should meet the demand.
The electrical characteristics is another issue. Figure a circuit amperage just for the compressor. about 10 amps per horse power at 120 volts and half the amps, 5 amps, for 220 volts.
Buying a new compressor may involve a new electric installation to accommodate the electrical requirements.
You can pick up a new basic 120V air compressor for about $75
I am a little confused here ... I have a Craftsman pancake, a Craftsman 6 hp (same compressor design) and several other name brand pancake compressors at the job. The compressor doesn't care which way the motor runs though mine all run in the same direction. As long as the piston goes up and down, the reed valves know when to open and when to closed based on the pressure. It sucks in from the 'room' on the down stroke and blows into the tank on the upstroke.
Yours isn't doing this? If it is creating a vacuum in the tank, I would have to say someone put the valves in upside down.
This is very curious.
You could reverse the black and white wire but as I understand the physics of it, it will not matter where the hot wire is since it is AC. The motor may be reversable but I'm thinking it is probably not in this case. That costs extra to make into the motor.
Please inspect the valves to make sure they are capable of 'inhaling' (the site will delete the other word I used) on the down stroke and 'exhaling' into the tank on the upstroke.
1) The tank check valve isn't opening (it's located where the line from the head enters the tank - usually extends into the tank, and the the pressure switch unloader line comes off of it as well)
2) The pressure switch unloader is bleeding off the air. This is a small valve on the side of the pressure switch. It should close when the compressor is running and open when the compressor shuts off to bleed off head pressure.
be sure to push both valves with your finger to ensure they are not stuck. If they are not remove the large inlet valve and inspect the diaphram. If it is bulged out then that is your problem
When you say red lever do you mean the drain valve, or the on off switch?.
Thanks,
Patrick
After taking it apart, the back wire right behind the fan was not connected anymore. Put on a new clamp and re connected the wire and it fired up. Thanks for your help anyways!
Patrick.
Is the red lever up or down? Up allows it to fill with air
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