Help! I have read all the info on the UC error. Our

Here is the link to the Clutch repair post. If you have to replace the clutch I part number for the clutch I use in my machine. Here is the link to the Clutch repair post. If you have to replace the clutch I part number for the clutch I use in my machine.

Rick,



Excellent feedback, folks like you are re the only reason I bother to chime in on FAV6800A/FAV9800A. The wife like’s the machine so to not go broke with repair cost I dove in like you to learn and repair.



OK let’s make sure I understand “”The noise at spin is really more when the two agitator things move.””.

The Tumblers( agitator things) should not rotate at all in spin cycle.



· The washer motor drives the Clutch Pulley CCW in spin cycle and CW in wash/agitate cycle.



In a nut shell this is how the clutch works in these two models. The Tumblers should not/must not rotate in spin cycle. At the start of spin cycle either in the wash cycle or Spin Only cycle the tumblers will move only several degrees of rotation as the Spin Cycle starts. This small amount of tumbler movement is caused as the large wrap spring in the clutch pulley comes under tension. Once under tension the wash basket begins to rotate CCW the spin cycle direction. If the tumblers are rotating in spin cycle we have a broken Large Wrap Spring that may be the clicking sound you hear in spin cycle. But the wash basket would never spin up. So I’m not sure that is the issue at this time. We need to remove the clutch from the machine and open it up.



Can you try this quick test before that? Shut off the water supply to the washer and start a wash cycle. Raise the washer top and observe the wash basket and tumbler action (there should be no tumbler rotation).



During the water fill cycle the wash basket is rotated slow RPM CCW which is the spin cycle direction of the wash basket. Do the tumblers rotate during the wash basket slow spin?



With a empty wash basket if the clutch spring is broken the wash basket will barley rotate CCW if at all and the tumblers will be rotating. Can you let me know the results?



Have you read my Clutch repair post ? Lay the machine down on one side or the back side and it will make removal a bit easier, it is a tight work area. I now use my bike lift…..to old to bend over anymore.



See next comment for additional inf. Rick,

Excellent feedback, folks like you are re the only reason I bother to chime in on FAV6800A/FAV9800A. The wife like’s the machine so to not go broke with repair cost I dove in like you to learn and repair.

OK let’s make sure I understand “”The noise at spin is really more when the two agitator things move.””.
The Tumblers( agitator things) should not rotate at all in spin cycle.

· The washer motor drives the Clutch Pulley CCW in spin cycle and CW in wash/agitate cycle.

In a nut shell this is how the clutch works in these two models. The Tumblers should not/must not rotate in spin cycle. At the start of spin cycle either in the wash cycle or Spin Only cycle the tumblers will move only several degrees of rotation as the Spin Cycle starts. This small amount of tumbler movement is caused as the large wrap spring in the clutch pulley comes under tension. Once under tension the wash basket begins to rotate CCW the spin cycle direction. If the tumblers are rotating in spin cycle we have a broken Large Wrap Spring that may be the clicking sound you hear in spin cycle. But the wash basket would never spin up. So I’m not sure that is the issue at this time. We need to remove the clutch from the machine and open it up.

Can you try this quick test before that? Shut off the water supply to the washer and start a wash cycle. Raise the washer top and observe the wash basket and tumbler action (there should be no tumbler rotation).

During the water fill cycle the wash basket is rotated slow RPM CCW which is the spin cycle direction of the wash basket. Do the tumblers rotate during the wash basket slow spin?

With a empty wash basket if the clutch spring is broken the wash basket will barley rotate CCW if at all and the tumblers will be rotating. Can you let me know the results?

Have you read my Clutch repair post ? Lay the machine down on one side or the back side and it will make removal a bit easier, it is a tight work area. I now use my bike lift…..to old to bend over anymore.

See next comment for additional inf.

Your clutch Large Wrap spring should look like this in the clutch pulley.



The One-Way Roller clutches (bearing ring should be clean up/re-lubed with WD-40. I’m going to re-lube with Slick-50 1 Lube and see if I get longer lasting lubrication results over WD-40. Do not use any bearing grease as I mentioned in my Clutch repair post. I’m going to drop that when I update that post. I feel any bearing grease may cause more issues with attracting contaminates such as dust . Pic of the One-Way Roller clutch and retaining plate.





Take what I call the Spinner Shaft Coupler this item.









Before you clean up anything insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into the One-Way Roller clutch plate like I show. Then holding Spinner Shaft Coupler ends tightly with your fingers take the other free hand and rotate the white bearing plate CCW. The white bearing plate should not rotate the spin direction. Now rotate the white bearing plate CW it should rotate around the coupler very easily this is the agitator/ wash cycle direction and the agitator shaft would drive the tranny driving the tumblers.







If you can rotate the bearing CCW the roller clutches are not locking up. No matter what clean and re-lube those compnets.



This may seem like a lot but once you do this you can diagnose clutch issues very quickly and help others. I’ll stay with you until you are in service or you pull the plug on the process.



My work bench







The machine on the work bench is a ebay win I picked up a few days ago. Was failing with dC/uC errors guess what was wrong? A few squrits of WD-40 and Clutch Malfunction no more. Real expensive repair :).



Here is the ebay win;







Second bid was my increase in the last 5 seconds for lurkers like me. This machine is in better shape then my original series 16 FAV6800AWW. This machine is a series 17 and looks brand new when you observe the guts.



Take care …..Rich



Your clutch Large Wrap spring should look like this in the clutch pulley.

The One-Way Roller clutches (bearing ring should be clean up/re-lubed with WD-40. I’m going to re-lube with Slick-50 1 Lube and see if I get longer lasting lubrication results over WD-40. Do not use any bearing grease as I mentioned in my Clutch repair post. I’m going to drop that when I update that post. I feel any bearing grease may cause more issues with attracting contaminates such as dust . Pic of the One-Way Roller clutch and retaining plate.


Take what I call the Spinner Shaft Coupler this item.




Before you clean up anything insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into the One-Way Roller clutch plate like I show. Then holding Spinner Shaft Coupler ends tightly with your fingers take the other free hand and rotate the white bearing plate CCW. The white bearing plate should not rotate the spin direction. Now rotate the white bearing plate CW it should rotate around the coupler very easily this is the agitator/ wash cycle direction and the agitator shaft would drive the tranny driving the tumblers.



If you can rotate the bearing CCW the roller clutches are not locking up. No matter what clean and re-lube those compnets.

This may seem like a lot but once you do this you can diagnose clutch issues very quickly and help others. I’ll stay with you until you are in service or you pull the plug on the process.

My work bench



The machine on the work bench is a ebay win I picked up a few days ago. Was failing with dC/uC errors guess what was wrong? A few squrits of WD-40 and Clutch Malfunction no more. Real expensive repair :).

Here is the ebay win;



Second bid was my increase in the last 5 seconds for lurkers like me. This machine is in better shape then my original series 16 FAV6800AWW. This machine is a series 17 and looks brand new when you observe the guts.

Take care …..Rich

Yep I would remove the clutch and see what we are dealing with. Yep I would remove the clutch and see what we are dealing with.

Rick,



I have to leave for the real job soon. I'll try to check you progress latter this evening I'm on the East Coast. I feel you have a clutch issue. I hope the One-Roller roller clutch bearing will clean up and after re-lube you can start going thru the laundry pile. Please try my little tes before you re-lube the roller clutches. Make sure when you re-install the clutch you seat it all the way. As I mention in my post it will spinn off if not properly seated. Watch your fingers when you walk the drive belt back on the clutch pulley. I once pinched my fingers real good. I have found that when you loosen the drive belt tension bolt you don't really get much slack to put the belt back on. Can you let me know if your Clutch pulley assembly uses the upper bearing ring? You are on your way I feel to a fix if the roller clutches are not rusted up.



Rich

Rick,

I have to leave for the real job soon. I'll try to check you progress latter this evening I'm on the East Coast. I feel you have a clutch issue. I hope the One-Roller roller clutch bearing will clean up and after re-lube you can start going thru the laundry pile. Please try my little tes before you re-lube the roller clutches. Make sure when you re-install the clutch you seat it all the way. As I mention in my post it will spinn off if not properly seated. Watch your fingers when you walk the drive belt back on the clutch pulley. I once pinched my fingers real good. I have found that when you loosen the drive belt tension bolt you don't really get much slack to put the belt back on. Can you let me know if your Clutch pulley assembly uses the upper bearing ring? You are on your way I feel to a fix if the roller clutches are not rusted up.

Rich

Good deal Rick a clutch replacement is the way to go. Yea I bought the clutch just to see if it would work in the FAV6899AW/FAV9800AW machines. 10-4 on being cheap I like to think smart :). $140-$170 = dumb:(.



Other issues with the machine will be the Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issues causing OD,OP,FL error codes down the road. You can read about those under dh1200s qnd my new name tag FAV6800AWDIY. Good luck and thank you for the kind words.....Rich Good deal Rick a clutch replacement is the way to go. Yea I bought the clutch just to see if it would work in the FAV6899AW/FAV9800AW machines. 10-4 on being cheap I like to think smart :). $140-$170 = dumb:(.

Other issues with the machine will be the Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issues causing OD,OP,FL error codes down the road. You can read about those under dh1200s qnd my new name tag FAV6800AWDIY. Good luck and thank you for the kind words.....Rich

Typical dirty clutch before clean up.




Typical dirty clutch before clean up.

Rick,



Yep.....Your Series 13 doesn’t use the upper bearing ring. From what I can tell from others owners, Series 10 and 11 are the only machines that use the upper bearing ring. It looks like Series 12 thru 17 do not use the upper bearing ring. Do not install the upper bearing ring if your original clutch did not use it



The clutch I show in the last pic is from a Series 10 FAV6800A.



Did you order from AZ?



From what you described I'm surprised you got your original clutch cleaned up and working…..Rich





Rick,

Yep.....Your Series 13 doesn’t use the upper bearing ring. From what I can tell from others owners, Series 10 and 11 are the only machines that use the upper bearing ring. It looks like Series 12 thru 17 do not use the upper bearing ring. Do not install the upper bearing ring if your original clutch did not use it

The clutch I show in the last pic is from a Series 10 FAV6800A.

Did you order from AZ?

From what you described I'm surprised you got your original clutch cleaned up and working…..Rich

Rick,



“”When I originally took the machine apart I did pull the transmission up and out. I did read after that you should replace a seal when you do that. I did not. What is that part?”” Rick the SM speaks to the Transmission O-Ring seal. Item #8 at searspartsdirect.com when you remove the tranny page 40 of the SM. You could pull the tranny out again and inspect that O-ring and see if it’s pinched/nicked but I don’t tha is causing the water leak just a WAG on my part.



From what I can see looking at a spare Spinner Plate Assembly (on the work bench) there are two weep holes drilled in the upper Spinner Plate Assembly that the agitator shaft rides in. With the tranny and clutch pulley pulled you can then pull the agitator shaft out and maybe see the two drillings.



From what I can tell if the Tranny O-ring seal was not making a good seal any excess wash water would get slung out through those drillings under centrifugal force to the outer tub during Spin Cycle.



You could take some wash water down the agitator shaft to the clutch pulley. The agitator shaft rides in a top bushing and a lower needle bearing at the male squared end of the shaft that engages the female squared end clutch pulley.



From what you describe I feel the water leak may be caused by a Tub Seal Leak. If that is the source of the water leak you would have to remove the Spinner Support assembly to replace the tub seal. I would also be concerned about wash water contamination of the Outer Tub bearings. A lot of work to replace the Tub Seal, special tool to remove Spinner nut see page 48 of the SM. I have no hands on knowledge on replacing the Tub Seal or Outer Tub bearings.



See this recent post http://www.fixya.com/support/t3961902-ma... regarding excessive Outer Tub bearing noise.



Going back to your first post “”I have read all the info on the UC error. Our Maytag washer (fav6800AWW) has been getting louder (On spin cycle) and louder until today when we got the UC error.”” By louder do you mean tub banging around as the wash basket began to spin up or a metal against metal squeal/screech form excessive bearing noise such as Outer Tub Bearing noise? Did the noise go away with the replacement clutch?



If you are taking a fair amount of wash water (a few good drips) I feel with my limited experience you have a Tub Seal Leak.



I have not torn down any of my machines to replace a Tub Seal or Outer Tub Bearings. I’m going to do that soon to gain the experience so I can contribute to a post such as the last few regarding Outer Tub Bearing replacement. I would hope a repair person that has knowledge on this type of repair on this model TL would chime in with their thoughts on your tub leak.



Rick I hope I’m wrong about the Tub Seal.



Let me know how you make out and I will try to help with any questions you may have. I would even post this issue at a DIY forum such as fixitnow.com for a solution…... Rich

Rick,

“”When I originally took the machine apart I did pull the transmission up and out. I did read after that you should replace a seal when you do that. I did not. What is that part?”” Rick the SM speaks to the Transmission O-Ring seal. Item #8 at searspartsdirect.com when you remove the tranny page 40 of the SM. You could pull the tranny out again and inspect that O-ring and see if it’s pinched/nicked but I don’t tha is causing the water leak just a WAG on my part.

From what I can see looking at a spare Spinner Plate Assembly (on the work bench) there are two weep holes drilled in the upper Spinner Plate Assembly that the agitator shaft rides in. With the tranny and clutch pulley pulled you can then pull the agitator shaft out and maybe see the two drillings.

From what I can tell if the Tranny O-ring seal was not making a good seal any excess wash water would get slung out through those drillings under centrifugal force to the outer tub during Spin Cycle.

You could take some wash water down the agitator shaft to the clutch pulley. The agitator shaft rides in a top bushing and a lower needle bearing at the male squared end of the shaft that engages the female squared end clutch pulley.

From what you describe I feel the water leak may be caused by a Tub Seal Leak. If that is the source of the water leak you would have to remove the Spinner Support assembly to replace the tub seal. I would also be concerned about wash water contamination of the Outer Tub bearings. A lot of work to replace the Tub Seal, special tool to remove Spinner nut see page 48 of the SM. I have no hands on knowledge on replacing the Tub Seal or Outer Tub bearings.

See this recent post http://www.fixya.com/support/t3961902-maytag_neptune_bearing_noise regarding excessive Outer Tub bearing noise.

Going back to your first post “”I have read all the info on the UC error. Our Maytag washer (fav6800AWW) has been getting louder (On spin cycle) and louder until today when we got the UC error.”” By louder do you mean tub banging around as the wash basket began to spin up or a metal against metal squeal/screech form excessive bearing noise such as Outer Tub Bearing noise? Did the noise go away with the replacement clutch?

If you are taking a fair amount of wash water (a few good drips) I feel with my limited experience you have a Tub Seal Leak.

I have not torn down any of my machines to replace a Tub Seal or Outer Tub Bearings. I’m going to do that soon to gain the experience so I can contribute to a post such as the last few regarding Outer Tub Bearing replacement. I would hope a repair person that has knowledge on this type of repair on this model TL would chime in with their thoughts on your tub leak.

Rick I hope I’m wrong about the Tub Seal.

Let me know how you make out and I will try to help with any questions you may have. I would even post this issue at a DIY forum such as fixitnow.com for a solution…... Rich

Sorry Rick I should have gone over all of your comments you had what I would call a fair amount of tub leak to cause this amount of rust.... I lean toward a Tub Seal leak.



""Rich, The Spinner Shaft Coupler was locked solid in the clutch plate. It must have gotten pretty hot because, after soaking it in PB Blaster, it came out and was blue. The spring was not broken but it was folded back the opposite way approximately 4 inches in from the center pin. I also soaked the the needle bearings in PB overnight. I did not see the upper bearing ring. So I got it back together (kept the front off to watch) and the first load all the clicking was gone but the tub still slammed the inner walls and I got a UC. "" Sorry Rick I should have gone over all of your comments you had what I would call a fair amount of tub leak to cause this amount of rust.... I lean toward a Tub Seal leak.

""Rich, The Spinner Shaft Coupler was locked solid in the clutch plate. It must have gotten pretty hot because, after soaking it in PB Blaster, it came out and was blue. The spring was not broken but it was folded back the opposite way approximately 4 inches in from the center pin. I also soaked the the needle bearings in PB overnight. I did not see the upper bearing ring. So I got it back together (kept the front off to watch) and the first load all the clicking was gone but the tub still slammed the inner walls and I got a UC. ""

Rick I think this is the right tool this tool I and asked a form, member to confirm the tool he purchased with a p/n. at this link http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fa...

He never responded back to me.

To get to the Tub Seal you have to remove the Spinner Assembly. I had one of the Tub mounting bolts break off with an impact wrench in the Spinner Assembly plate. All the liquid wrench in the world would not have helped it was severely corroded into Spinner Assembly plate. So it will come down to the down time and hassle.

I have a back up machine so no down time for me. Maybe a cheap no frills plain vanilla machine might be a better choice and work on the FAV6800A down the road for a back up machine if you decide to go forward with a tub seal repair. With the leaking tub seal you may end up with outer tub bearing replacement.

See this post where I show some pics of my series 10 Outer Tub bearing replacement work. You will see the 1.75” Spinner Assembly nut that has to be removed to release the Spinner Assembly to replace the tub seal. You don’t need the tool to remove that 1.75” nut. An impact wrench is the way to go for removal. You need the tool to reassemble and not over torque. http://www.fixya.com/support/t4028403-ju...

You could try a local repair/parts place and see if they would lend you the tool. I may just use a 3/8 impact wrench and do a gut feel torque down. The manuals states torque to 90 foot pounds I don’t see how you can do that with the specialty tool. I have another project on going right now so that series 10 machine is on hold.

Good luck…..Rich Rick I think this is the right tool this tool I and asked a form, member to confirm the tool he purchased with a p/n. at this link http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fav6800aw_sn_15_top_loader_r_nunit
He never responded back to me.
To get to the Tub Seal you have to remove the Spinner Assembly. I had one of the Tub mounting bolts break off with an impact wrench in the Spinner Assembly plate. All the liquid wrench in the world would not have helped it was severely corroded into Spinner Assembly plate. So it will come down to the down time and hassle.
I have a back up machine so no down time for me. Maybe a cheap no frills plain vanilla machine might be a better choice and work on the FAV6800A down the road for a back up machine if you decide to go forward with a tub seal repair. With the leaking tub seal you may end up with outer tub bearing replacement.
See this post where I show some pics of my series 10 Outer Tub bearing replacement work. You will see the 1.75” Spinner Assembly nut that has to be removed to release the Spinner Assembly to replace the tub seal. You don’t need the tool to remove that 1.75” nut. An impact wrench is the way to go for removal. You need the tool to reassemble and not over torque. http://www.fixya.com/support/t4028403-just_replaced_new_clutch_fav9800aww
You could try a local repair/parts place and see if they would lend you the tool. I may just use a 3/8 impact wrench and do a gut feel torque down. The manuals states torque to 90 foot pounds I don’t see how you can do that with the specialty tool. I have another project on going right now so that series 10 machine is on hold.
Good luck…..Rich

Rick that’s the spirit! Extend the service life of your $1K machine and let someone else stimulate the economy.

You would need the Tub seal see Sears Parts Direct. I would also pick up the Tranny O-ring seal (series 10) as the SM suggest replacing when removing the tranny. Looking at around $25 for the seal and O-Ring.

So with no Outer tub bearing replacement just seals the cost is reasonable. It’s reasonable even if you have to replace the Outer tub bearings and the bearings in the Spinner Assembly just time consuming (for me) to get them out and pressed back in correctly.

If you have the impact tool to remove the Spinner Assembly bolts and you don’t snap one off like I did this could be a low cost fix. As I mentioned I used the impact tool to remove the Spinner bolts. Trip to Tractor Supply for the 1.75” 3/4“ drive socket. You may find enough pocket change under the tumblers/ tranny and Spinner plate to help pay for the fix :).

If you pick up the seals locally maybe you can borrow the Spinner Nut tool and locking ring and take a WAG at 90' pounds of torque on reassembly.

Keep in mind this post http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fa... if you ever do a Outer Tub bearing replacement. It looks like your Series 13 and above machines use the integrated One-Way Roller Clutch bearing in the lower Outer Tub Bearing. Hats off to that forum member for his info. I just wish he would have confirmed the p/n on the Spinner Nut tool he purchased. If you can verify that this is the correct tool before I order I would appreciate the info.

My e-mail alerts have stopped working on this forum again very frustrating. I’m only here because of all the FAV6800A/FAV9800A issues. I recommend FIXITNOW.com

Wish I could add more but I’m an owner/DIY’er as you working my way through this. Keep us posted on your fix….Rich

Rick that’s the spirit! Extend the service life of your $1K machine and let someone else stimulate the economy.
You would need the Tub seal see Sears Parts Direct. I would also pick up the Tranny O-ring seal (series 10) as the SM suggest replacing when removing the tranny. Looking at around $25 for the seal and O-Ring.
So with no Outer tub bearing replacement just seals the cost is reasonable. It’s reasonable even if you have to replace the Outer tub bearings and the bearings in the Spinner Assembly just time consuming (for me) to get them out and pressed back in correctly.
If you have the impact tool to remove the Spinner Assembly bolts and you don’t snap one off like I did this could be a low cost fix. As I mentioned I used the impact tool to remove the Spinner bolts. Trip to Tractor Supply for the 1.75” 3/4“ drive socket. You may find enough pocket change under the tumblers/ tranny and Spinner plate to help pay for the fix :).
If you pick up the seals locally maybe you can borrow the Spinner Nut tool and locking ring and take a WAG at 90' pounds of torque on reassembly.
Keep in mind this post http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fav6800aw_sn_15_top_loader_r_nunit if you ever do a Outer Tub bearing replacement. It looks like your Series 13 and above machines use the integrated One-Way Roller Clutch bearing in the lower Outer Tub Bearing. Hats off to that forum member for his info. I just wish he would have confirmed the p/n on the Spinner Nut tool he purchased. If you can verify that this is the correct tool before I order I would appreciate the info.
My e-mail alerts have stopped working on this forum again very frustrating. I’m only here because of all the FAV6800A/FAV9800A issues. I recommend FIXITNOW.com
Wish I could add more but I’m an owner/DIY’er as you working my way through this. Keep us posted on your fix….Rich