When you lose the neutral wire, it causes the equipment in the home to be wired in series with 240 volts applied to the series circuit.
Without seeing the circuits, I can't determine the exact voltages and currents imposed upon the appliances.
Its possible that the control circuit for the refrigerator was damaged, and needs to be repaired, or the compressor motor could have been damaged.
You may want to consider filing a claim with your insurance company
You can tell us the brand and model of your refrigerator? With this info we have more details for answer.
I'm assuming that where you have placed your question is the "correct model" LG Bottom Freezer.
Then, the
first thing to understand is that all the cooling in a conventional
frost free refrigerator usually originates in the freezer compartment,
just a small portion of that air is circulated through the fridge
compartment to cool there. (Technically the opposite is true. Warm air
is circulated into the freezer compartment where its heat is removed by
the refrigeration process leaving behind cooled air.) In any case, if
that air flow is hampered in any way, cooling problems will result.
The
second thing you need to know is that the compressor (large black dome
at the rear of the refrigerator) provides all the cooling ability for
the whole appliance. It has to be running in order for any cooling to
take place. As long as the compressor is running, the possibilities
listed below will need to be checked one at a time. If the compressor
is not running or continually trying to start but failing
within seconds, clicking and then shutting down, someone will need to
look into why. That alone is likely the cause of your cooling problems.
Running But Not Cooling: There are lots of
things that can cause cooling problems. One of the most common causes
of poor cooling in a frost free refrigerator is a defrost system
failure. In such a case one or the other compartment may appear to be
keeping proper temperature but that too may change in a short period of
time. The fridge compartment's temperature rise is usually (but not
always) the first to be noticed.
"Frost" and "Ice": There is a difference
between "frost" (a white, snow-like substance) and "ice" (usually clear
and solid). When referring to what is seen during an inspection, please
keep this distinction in mind as the possible causes for each are often
very different.
The Defrost System: Inspecting the
(usually rear) wall of the freezer compartment for a frost build up is
necessary. (In the case of many GE top freezer models, check the
freezer's bottom panel.) If there is a frost coating on it, it is often
a sign of excessive frosting beneath it.
Sometimes however the evaporator cover panel will actually need to be
removed (see the illustration below) before an excessive frost build
will visible.
The
refrigeration system's evaporator (cooling) coil is usually in the
freezer compartment. This evaporator will periodically frost over and
have to be defrosted by means of a heating system. When the defrost
heating system fails, the frost can accumulate to such a degree that
airflow throughout the appliance is hampered. There may be just enough
air circulation to cool the freezer section but that will eventually
stop too.
The
defrost system on a frost free refrigerator consists of some kind of
timing device (often a mechanical timer), defrost heater(s) and a
defrost termination thermostat (a.k.a. defrost limit switch).
The
timer acts like a clock to automatically switch the refrigerator from
cooling mode into the defrost cycle. After a period of time it then
switches the refrigerator out of the defrost cycle back into the
cooling mode again. When the defrost heater is switched on during the
defrost cycle, it melts any frost build up which has accumulated. The
defrost limit switch shuts the heater off when it senses a set
temperature which should indicate a totally defrosted evaporator.
Defrost
timers frequently fail and stop keeping time. If this happens during
the cooling mode, it will allow excessive frost to accumulate on the
cooling coil reducing air flow, eventually stopping it altogether as it
never switches into defrost mode to melt it. The timer can also stick
in the defrost mode and never advance into the cooling cycle again.
The
defrost heater contacts of the timer or the defrost heater itself can
burn out leaving the defrost circuit open. In this case even if the
timer advanced into the defrost cycle, the heater would not produce any
heat to defrost the evaporator coil. The timer then goes merrily on its
way back into the cooling cycle, effectively accomplishing nothing.
More frost builds up, eventually to the point of totally plugging the
cooling coil.
The defrost
termination thermostat opens the circuit to the heater when it senses a
set temperature. This set temperature is usually high enough that the
cooling coil should be totally defrosted by then. If this device fails
and remains permanently open, the heater would never get power to
defrost the evaporator.
f
the defrost termination thermostat contacts short out, it will allow
the defrost heater to stay on as long as the timer is in the defrost
mode. A symptom of that is usually greatly fluctuating temperatures in
the freezer compartment possibly causing thawing and re-freezing of
food stuffs.
The
defrost timer can also fail so that it powers both the cooling and the
defrost circuit at the same time. This can cause both the fridge and
freezer section to not cool properly and will likely be noticed most in
the refrigerator section. The freezer temperature can alternate between
cooling normally and not quite enough. This type of failure doesn't
happen very often.
Hope helped with this.
One more
possibility... have you checked the cold control switch inside your
refrigerator section??? If its not in the center of the selections and
is in the OFF position or "0" Zero, it wont run.
No reset on compressor, but they usually are warrentied for Five
Years.....so, call the manufacturer back to check it out if it really
is the compressor.
Good luck.
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I lost the neutral on the power line coming into my home. Lost some appliances. My refrigerator is a LG LRBC20512TT. the light is on, but the compressor is not running. Can it be repaired?
My insurance bought a new refrigerator, but this one is brand new & I hate to throw it away if it can be repaired. When I lost my neutral I had 63 power on one side & 182 on the other side. Lost some appliances, other work fine. My refrigrator lights come on , but the compressor is not running at all. How do I check to see what might be damaged
Insurance bought me a new refrigerator, but this one is new, hate to just throw it away if it can be repaired, what should I check to see how serious it might be
not helpful
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