Question about Dewalt 18 Volt Compact Drill Kit

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My DC759 drill has no bearing clip

My DC759 drill was apparently assembled without the bearing clip so the nose pulls out chuck, shaft and all. I purchased a clip but it looks like I need to dissamble the chuck and remove the clutch ring to install. could you outline the procedure? I hate to just start taking things apart when I'm not sure where I'm going.
Thanks, Terry

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Http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dc759-type-18v-cordless-drill-parts-c-1009_1162_2837.html

Here is the parts diagram. I hate to say it but I always have problems getting the chuck out of the clutch/transmission without breaking something. I havent figured out how to keep the spindle from moving while I try to turn the chuck. Sorry if this doesnt help much.

Posted on Nov 27, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Milwaukee 1670-1 s/n: 472-18049. Purchased a Replacement 1/2 Drill Chuck Assembly Kit for 48-66-1481. It said it was for this drill.


According to a couple websites you needed to be looking at parts and diagrams for 1670-1 Starting S/N 472-17152.
The chuck you need is 48-66-1381 which replaces 48-66-1380.

The next serial number diagram that I could find was with starting S/N 472-19512, that too uses the same 1381 chuck.
I believe that the newer ones with serial 472B, 472C etc use the chuck you bought.

Oct 10, 2016 | Milwaukee Drills

Tip

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I've just done this repair and after...


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.


on Apr 27, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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4 Answers

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