Maytag refrigerator lights won't work

If you refrigerator is not defrosting the most likely problem with your model is a defective defrost control 5303918476_Defrost_Control

To initiate the defrost cycle in most Friggidaires (not a typo) with ADC:

To initiate defrost, depress the fresh food light switch 5
times in 6 seconds (light bulb must be working). To terminate
defrost, depress the fresh food light switch 5 times in 6 seconds.If the refrigerator won't go into defrost, verify that you have continuity in the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If they check out good, but you aren't getting 120vac from the ADC board,replace the ADC board.
If your refrigerator uses a mechanical timer for defrost control, then you still need to check the continuity of the defrost heater and thermostat. If they're both good, replace the defrost timer.
BTW, all the foregoing applies to other brands, too. Even the part link for the mechanical defrost timers can be used for all brands so equipped. The only real difference is in the ADC control and the procedure for initiating defrost. For more about that, see this page.
Link=> HERE

APPLIANCE 911

I have no idea what the tech was thinking! What would a water filter have to do with the unit shutting down?! From what you have described, I would say the ADC is getting stuck in the defrost model. Replace the ADC and you should be good to go. Here is the part to order.
Keep me posted and throw that techs number in the garbage!

What is the model number and is the compressor kicking on?

Hi,
The two most common problems on this model were either the relay to the compressor or the ADC (adaptive defrost control) both parts can prevent the cooling for the unit. Relay kit or ADC. I would visually inspect the relay to the compressor with the unit unplugged, smell it to see if it smells burnt, if so replace it. If it is ok, then I would suspect the ADC board and it will need to be replaced.
Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Most times on your model it is the ADC or adaptive defrost control. Part number 13 in photo here=> MSD2756GEW Maytag Refrigerator Control Panel This is behind your controls inside your fresh food compartment.
61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly

When the fresh food compartment begins to get too cold is usually when the part #8 in that photo goes bad and that is called the auto air damper
61005971 Damper Control Assembly
More on that part next time. I believe you will be fine once the ADC is changed, Thanks, Sea Breeze

The older Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) boards - short L1 and TEST pins together (you can use the tip of an insulated screwdriver or short length of wire - stripped only at the ends). Newer ADC boards don't have a TEST pin. You can also force defrost by cycling the Cold Control 3 times within 6 seconds and leave it on COLD (this may work only for the newer ADC without the TEST pins).

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Part number 12001760 fountain kit(includes solenoid, flapper door &hinge pin $50,part number 61003425 control board $95,part number 61003407 fountain bracket $25.
 Depends on how much you like the fridge but thats a lot to spend on an ice dispenser. and thats assuming you do it yourself otherwise add at least another $100

There are 2 possibilties. the most commom is if you have just replaced the filter trapped air will cause a  drip like youve described run about 1 gallon thru the dispenser to purge all air.
the next possiblity is a bad solenoid valve this is located behind the refrig in the compressor compartment. there are 2 sets of valves i reccomned replacing both sets at the smae time. these are model specific and can be ordered thru maytag or you can find them at a number of places online thx peyton...