I hate to say it, but more than likely this is a sign that your gearcase (transmission) is starting to go bad. When they wear out, they tend to exhibit slow spin problems. I have seldom experienced a bad clutch causing this. When the clutch goes bad it tends to cause the drum to not want to stop AFTER the spin cycle. In addition, if the motor coupling were bad it wouldn't spin at all. If you purchased the washer recently, it may still be covered under the manufacturer's warranty. Some manufacturers will cover the transmission beyond the usual one-year limited warranty. It's usually covered for 5 years, I believe. You may want to double check your warranty to be sure. Now...if it IS the transmission, and it's NOT covered under a warranty, all is not lost. A new gearcase runs about $145 and the part number is 423. It is also recommended that you replace the motor coupling at the same time. The price is about $14 and the part number is 1195967. Most consumers feel intimidated by the thought of replacing a transmission in a washer, but on this model, it is fairly simple and straight forward. I can provide you with step-by-step instructions, or if you like, you can purchase a do-it-yourself manual for about $17 (part# 1170635). Think about it...about $170 to repair your washer yourself. Or...spend over $300 to have the appliance repair guy do it for you. $170 is still cheaper than buying a new washer. I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with any comments or questions you may have.
If you haven't done so already, the agitator comes out fairly easy by removing the cap and bolt underneath. The whole agitator should pull off the transmission shaft. There is a small plastic piece that sits on top of the spanner nut, along with a clip that fits around the transmission shaft that have to be removed. Once all of this is removed, the transmission will slide out from the bottom of the washer by loosening the three bolts that hold it in place. You will have to lean the entire washer back to allow room for this, though. It's that simple. You do not have to remove the spanner nut or the tub. The brake assembly sits atop the gearcase and (if you don't want to replace it) it will have to be removed and retained for the new gearcase. There is a cup hook shaped retaining clip that comes out with a screwdriver and a metal washer that you need to hold on to as well. Slide the brake assembly off the shaft and the gearcase is completely removed. If you purchase a new gearcase it should be shipped to you in the UPRIGHT position. The gearcase contains oil and must stay upright at all times. Just prior to installing it is important to poke a small hole in the breather hole on top of the new gearcase with an awl. There should be a warning label explaining this. Just remember how you take things apart and place all parts in one location as you remove them. This will make the process of reassembly much easier. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further advice.
You know...I can't remember. I think it depends on what gear is selected. Were there any indications of oil leaking from it?
Okay...just thought I would ask. This is sometimes a dead give away that you have a transmission problem. However, it doesn't always occur when a transmission goes bad. From what I remember, the transmission shaft would spin free, but I can't remember if it would spin free in one direction, or in both directions. I would turn the shaft to see if I could feel any gears scraping or dragging. There's not much inside the gearcase except for a couple of spindles, an actuator arm, and oil. When the gears wear down they can start to slip. It was just much easier to replace the entire gearcase rather than attempting any repairs. Does the tub spin freely?
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Hello T Wright - Based on the symptoms you are describing, it sounds like more than likely the unit is sensing an out of balance load, which could be too light or to heavy of a load, and the unit will not advance to high speed spin. However, often when a unit does not spin, it is because the unit cannot properly drain and dispose of the water and detergent solution. Does the unit make a humming noise? If so, the drainage hose/pump may be clogged and needs to be cleaned. If not, the washer may possibly be experiencing an issue with the door lock assembly, faulty pump, timer or control board not communicating correctly. Because it could be a number of any one of several underlying causes, I would recommend contacting a professional to properly diagnose and repair the unit.
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Unfortuantly I have to agree with the Gear box problem.
I have taken the motor off to get to the coupler and yes it is a bit worn but appearsto be in tact and not causing the problem.
As of now I am trying to get the agitator out of the drum in a attempt to remove the gearbox/transmission.
Any step by step directions you can give I will gladly take..LOl
Thanks
Have the gearbox out now.
It enguages in one direction and spins freeley in the other.
Is this normanl?
I would think it would enguage in both directions,
no!
with or with out the gear box installed.
With it it spins by hand but is stiff. no hang ups or dead spots. with out the gear box, yes it spins no noises or such.
I have taken the gear box appart..No signs of extra ware on the plastic gears. Actually they all look really good.
When it spins in one direction it enguages the aggatitate mode ( I assume) becauuse you can see it connect to the swing gear
The other direction it spins freely.
I am sure every thing is back together correctly .
I am going to put it all back together and see what happens.
he part # given for the repair manual did not come up. Was this a manual for the Maytag Brovo washer mtw6600tq0?
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