Question about Frigidaire FEX831C Stack Electric Laundry Center

4 Answers

I have a combo Frigidaire fex831c washer/dryer. When going into the rince cycle, the water begins to fill the tub so it can agitate and then spin out. My problem is that the water will not stop and overflows the tub. Of course, I found this out the hard way and it flooded the floor. Is there a relay or something that I can replace to insure it shuts off at the right time, depending on the load setting? Thank you for any help.

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  • bparker4444 Dec 14, 2009

    What is the part number of the switch?

  • bparker4444 Dec 14, 2009

    What is the part number of the pressure switch that needs replacing, assumming that the tube is not clogged?

  • bparker4444 Dec 15, 2009

    Thank you. I there an easy way to get at the tube and the switch? How does the washer come apart for access? Thanks

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You may have one of several parts malfunctioning. If the water level sensor isn't working or the water solenoid sticks, this will happen. Let it fill and when it is at a point where it should shut off, check for voltage at the water solenoid (should be where the hoses hook up) If there is voltage there, the sensor is suspect. The sensor is behind the knob or buttons that get set for the load size. There is a tube running down into the tub from the sensor. That could be blocked. Otherwise, the sensor itself is probably your best bet.

Posted on Dec 15, 2009

  • Charles Reifinger
    Charles Reifinger Dec 15, 2009

    The switch is usually easy to get at. Remove the screws on the back of the control panel part on the top of your machine and you should be able to access it. You should have the washer unplugged to work on it like this. Here is a link to a site that sells appliance parts open to the page for your control panel. The switch in question is #5 on their diagram, part #AP3867022 and costs $19.18. Hope this helps.

    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...

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The load level sw called the ( pressure sw ) is the control for this / and has probably gone bad / other caused would be the water valve and if this were the case only to stop it is turning the tap's off / in some cases the pressure sw tube to the sw is full of soap / hard water deposits ect . and cleaning the tube is the correction .. you can use a 9 wates saftey valve at the tap's ( when water gets on floor it shuts off the inlet taps / but at this time there is 16 gal water in tub that could still leak out . I would replace the pressure sw after cking the air tube to in ..mm

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

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Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} If it fills with water and starts the cycle and the water keeps running in then your water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in is sticking. It needs replacing.

Your pressure switch stops the water and allows it to start the next cycle. It's a switch either in the control panel or at the top of the tub with a small tube connected to it which goes down between the inner and outer tube. As the water level increases the air in the tube is compressed until there is enough pressure to make the switch stopping the water from filling. This tube can get clogged and the switch won't work. Remove the tube and clean it out. Blowing on the tube when it's still connected to the switch will make the switch if it's working and clear.

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Dec 14, 2009

    Here is you pressure switch.http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail...

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Dec 18, 2009

    The top should pry up from the front and prop






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    ed up you can access the tub. It's held with spring clips and possibly screws under the front edge.

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Water Level Switch/Air Tube
The water level switch (aka pressure switch) senses the water level in the wash tub. It does this through a plastic tube which runs from the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near the bottom . The tube is filled with air. As water enters the tub it also enters the tube. As water climbs inside the tube, it pushes on the air trapped inside and increases the air pressure. When the air pressure reaches a certain level, it triggers the switch.
A defective pressure switch can interfere with the cycles. It can also result in underfilling or overfilling of the tub.
The switch routes current from the timer control to the temperature switch and the water inlet valve when the tub needs to be filled. Once full, the pressure switch cuts the current and reroutes it to the motor on the timer control to continue the cycle.
Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch.
The water level switch has three connectors. Label and disconnect the wires from the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. It will be necessary to test each of the three possible pairs. For example, test pairs 1 & 2, 1 & 3 and 2 & 3.
Place a probe on two terminals and note the reading. Now move one of the probes to the other terminal and note the reading. Finally test the third pair and note the reading. The multitester should display a reading of infinity or continuity for each test. In this test two of the pairs should read infinity and one should read near zero resistance (continuity).
Now blow gently into the air pressure connection and retest. It should click and you must maintain the air pressure while testing. For the two pairs that read infinity one should now show good continuity. The pair that previously gave of reading of continuity should now give a reading of infinity.
If the switch fails either of these tests, it should be replaced.

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

  • Roger Campbell
    Roger Campbell Dec 14, 2009

    The water inlet valve connects the hot and cold water lines from your home to the back of the washer. The solenoids on the valve open one or both valves to provide the proper water temperature for the wash cycle. If the valves are blocked or the solenoids do not activate, the symptoms may include no water, low water pressure, the wrong water temperature or water entering the tub even when the machine is off.

    The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting good water


    pressure and to clear out any debris from the line.



    Inspect the filter screens on both the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. Use caution to avoid damaging the filter screens because the screens in the valve are not replaceable.

    If debris was not present then proceed to the next step of testing the solenoids. Access to the valve may be easiest by opening the top or the back of the washer, depending upon make and model.

    There are two wires connected to each solenoid (aka coil) on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

    Use a continuity tester or multitester to test for continuity. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands


    and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first.



    If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the washer is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

  • Roger Campbell
    Roger Campbell Dec 14, 2009

    You totally decline my advice give me a 50% rating then ask me for a part number. Good luck. Why dont you revise your rating? Do the test I know you didnt do yet. Then ask for a part number?

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1 Answer

Why does my Agitator starts but water don't run into tub


Good Morning Louis,

I see that you are having trouble with your Frigidaire top load stacked washer and dryer, model# FEX831CS, not getting any water into the tub even though the agitator is moving. There are a couple of things we can try.

    1)Make sure that the water is adequate in the area where your laundry center is located. Check another faucet in the house. Wait until the water supply and pressure increase.

    2)Make sure the water supply faucets are completely open. Both the hot and cold.

    3)There could be water running elsewhere in your home. The water pressure must be at least 30 PSI going into your washer. Try to avoid running water elsewhere while your washer is filling.

    4)Make sure that the water inlet hoses are not kinked. If they are, straighten them out.

    5)Try selecting a larger cycle for your load size. This might show the water coming in more.

    6)Make sure that you have not overloaded your washer.


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1 Answer

It leaks water after its about half full does it have a hole in the tub?


I doubt if the tub has a hole in it, BUT the increased pressure and weight of the half filled tub could force water past a damaged washer. How did the washer get damaged, probably by the spin bearing starting to fail.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Frigidaire-Parts/Washer-dryer-combo-Parts/Model-FEX831CS0/1428/0152000/R0310016/00005?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Items 21 and 26 are the parts that I would suspect.

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you need to remove the agitator take the cap off and remove the bolt from inside the agitator and then remove it look at the metal trunion in the bottom of the tub and see if there is a broken bolt holding the trunion to the shaft.there is a chance the transmission need to be replace if there is no broken bolt

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1 Answer

Agitator starts at begining of cycle before washer is full


Please be carful as running the agitator without enough water will overheat and kick out the motor, however it should be ok when it resets itself.
Yes, the machine should stop agitating when you lift the lid so this too is part of the problem.
After looking at the print I can only suggest that the cam contacts in the timer ( contacts 12 and 14) that start the motor are burned and stuck together.
Quentin

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Frigidaire (LTF2940E) Washer starts, stops, starts, stops...


The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

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  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

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1 Answer

Washer won't agitate or spin


The transmission is dead!
It's not worth fixing!
If it's 10 years old or more, better off replacing it with a newer machine which will be much more efficient!
1998????????????
Not worth the money to fix!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Try You should call service.:
A&E Factory Service
1-800-905-9505
Nation wide / 7days/24 hours
Good work

Please give me a "Solution Solved Rating", in this site!
Thank You
Neil

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I Changed the TUB belt and now it spins.

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hi thanks for the question it looks like a problem with the transmission but only if afer the water fills the tub the motor starts running if te motor docent start after its full look for a timer problem . so if motor runs on wash cycle and no spin transmission problem thanks the appliance doc please rate me.

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1 Answer

Frigidaire Washer/dryer combo


Dtronics,

A part called a (wig-wag) its a part that consists of two selonoids, one is bad. It switches the transmission from the wash cycle to the spin cycle,at the same time it opens the pump for draining.

hope this is helpful

handiman518

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1 Answer

Washer won't agitate


Just fixed the same problem. Its a broken belt. Take the front panel off and to the right of the tub you will see a pulley and belt. We replaced both the pulley and the belt for around $40. Was real easy to do yourself.

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