Question about Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer

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Does not heat- three of the temp sensors read 0 ohms, one is at 7.4 K ohms. Can it be the cause

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Hello there
Here is a list of item for you to check Hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards Richard
My dryer will not heat up. Investigate these five areas if your dryer is not heating up:

Proper Voltage

If your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.

does not heat - dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
dryer_thermostat.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.

Posted on Dec 15, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Have a hayward hp21001 heat pump set temp for 89 degrees but say water temp is 38 degrees when pool thermostat reads 76


Try replacing the temp sensor. You can test the temp sensor if you have an ohms meter that can read k-ohms. If the sensor is good then the board is probably not reading the sensor properly.

Jun 12, 2017 | Hayward Pool & Spa

Tip

F05 Error Code


This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the “F05” Error Code.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

I hope this information if found to be helpful.

on Dec 09, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Ohm c heck on removed pontiac G6 water temp sensor


you are trying to test, the readings should equal the temp, lets say like now you have it out it should read the temp of air, if you had it in the car and tested it with cold engine and then test as engine runs and coolant gets hot you would see the readings change, this way is okay if it reads the temp of the air but i would also do it installed with engine running .


Okay here is a chart. starting at 300 degrees
300* = 35ohms
210 = 185ohm
160 = 450 ohm
100 = 1600 ohms
70 = 3400
40 = 7500 ohms
20 = 13500
0 = 25000 ohms
-40 = 100700 ohms

  • There are more readings in between these temps but this should help i will enclose a web site if you need the other readings. this chart is good and readings have a + or - of 50ohms. good day. www.gmtemperaturesensorchart

Dec 25, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Tests for throttle position sensor


Hi
You can test the sensor with an ohm meter . Unplug the conecter from the sensor . There are three connecter pins . The top being one and the bottom three.

With the meter leads accross terminals 1 and 2 and the pedal at idle position the meter should read 20 ohms .
At wide open position it should read 6000 ohms .

Then put leads accross terminals 2 and 3 .
At idle position meter shouls read 0
at wide open should read 4600 ohm,

Dec 25, 2010 | 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

F05


"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Sep 21, 2010 | Whirlpool GHW9400 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

What does F5 mean?


"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

Apr 17, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

No power to upper oven 'bake' heating element.


Sounds like you have it figured, need to spend some moola..........

You can ohm out the sensor to the oven should be about 1100 ohms at room temperature.((the sensor is the little rod with two wires attached to it sticking in the oven, as temps change resistance changes which is read by the board) The upper and lower oven sensors are probably the same,you could just swap them to test, but probably not necessary,might also be confusing if you do not do a lot of testing on a regular basis. Remember to unplug unit for safety.

The bake element if it was not bad should be about 20 ohms, bad would read open........

Feb 21, 2010 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

1 Answer

The dryer runs but no heat, a maytag.


1st make sure CAREFULLY (if this is a normal elec dryer), you're getting 220 to unit.(sometimes 1 of 2 circuit breakers have gone bad). Next, UNPLUG UNIT, I cant stress this enough.
Wiring diagram should be in unit, usually in behind control panel.
While performing following tests also very carefully check all wires and connectors. You have at least 1 thermal sensor probably 2 (different types). Ohm these, at ambient should read very near 0 ohms. These read infinite at predetermined high temp. Ohm across heating elements, correct is very low resistance.

Sep 26, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Showing F-5


"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Aug 02, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Error code f -05


"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jun 30, 2009 | Washing Machines

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