At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If it didn't do that before removing the capacitor & wires then I would assume it is something you have done wrong. Maybe put a wire back in wrong place. There is a wiring diagram on back of dryer. Motor not starting could be the capacitor, you really need to test it with a capacitor tester. It may also be the motor bearings seizing up. If motor is tight to turn when belt is off then it will be time for a new dryer. Too expensive to replace the motor on such an old dryer.
You can actually use the motor relay to test if the heater relay is bad, by switching them around. They are interchangeable!
Below is a parts layout for reference.
Unplug power
Then pry the left end cap loose
Remove the philips screw holding the control panel
Remove the back panel plate to inspect, see below diagram:
Unplug the wire harnesses of both relays and plug the heater wires into the motor, motor wires into the heater. If the dryer stays running when you push "start", you must replace the heater relay!
Note: Do not run your dryer until you have all returned the wires to their proper relays...
You'll need at LEAST a model number of your dryer to post for help. Even then, your available resource people may or may not have the information you need for that. Good Luck, and Lesson Learned . . you can NEVER write down too much info when you're repairing something you're not totally familiar with. . .
the Maytag dryers would have the diagram either INSIDE the control panel, OR on the back of the control panel. Neither are color coded as there never was a color coded diagram ever printed. The diagrams do list the color of wires and show where they start and terminate. That is all a service tech would require to troubleshoot. If the diagram has been removed, you could try an online search.
There should be a tech envelope in the console labeled "tech data" that has the wiring diagram on it. Dig thru that envelope and you should have the termation points you need. If not I am still looking for the wiring diagram and will respond with it when located. Be patient because I may have to download a service manual.
Kelly
wire diagrams are usually on paper inside the header. thats where the timer and knobs are. sometimes it is on the back of the machine in a plastic pouch glued to the back
If you remove the cover from the back of the dryer control panel there will probably be a wiring diagram for your dryer folded up and taped to the back. Something to try if you can't find it otherwise.
You'll need to check the thermostats and heating element. The dryer has like two or three thermostats: two that operate the heating element, and one that burns out like a fuse if it gets too hot. Pick up a electric multimeter. I got mine at wal-mart for $5. Put it on the resistance (greek letter omega or upside down horseshoe symbol). 1X or 10X or anything doesn't matter. When you touch the probes together the needle should jump, indicating that there's very low resistance there because the probes don't resist electricity flowing them. You can use this to test the components. Unplug the dryer for God's sake, and then try to take off the back panel. If you don't see a way you can probably "pop" the top of the dryer by prying it up with a putty knife in the seam between the sides and top of the dryer. Now remove the back, and find the heating element assembly, probably on the lower right. There will be two or three wires connected to the element assembly. Two 220v wires(probably red) will supply power to the element and one control wire(probably yellow) send feedback to the controller. Check the resistance of the heating element and each of the thermostats by putting the probes on the wires on each "side" of it and check the resistance. If something has a very high resistance on the high voltage wires, it's probably defunct and needs to be replaced. The yellow or control wire might have a resistor on it that your meter would read as bad, but you're only concerned with the high voltage supply wires. Note that the wiring diagram will probably be hidden somewhere inside the dryer when you open it up. If all the parts in the element assembly check out ok follow the wire connected from the element to the motor and check the resistance of the resistors and stuff on the diagram. Note that is a resistor have a value like 10k(10,000 ohms) you may have your meter set too low for the needle to actually read it. That's what the 1X, 10X multiplier settings are for if your meter has them. Other problems could be a loose wire, dirty moisture sensor inside the drum, defective controller, or defective switches.
I'm not familiar with this specific Dryer, but in most of them you can find their wiring diagram glued under the upper panel or the rear panel.
Good luck !
×