Need to replace thermal fuse again, second time in 6 months. where is it and is it in a place i can do it my self

Not a thermo fuse sound like motor is struggling.
May just need taken apart and cleaned

The self-clean cycle has blown a fuse in the rear of the oven. That thermal fuse must be replaced. Go to www.appliancepartspros.com and enter your model number. Find the thermal fuse on the diagram and then you can orfer the fuse from them.

Probably a bad heating element, You may want to change that to before replacing the fuse again.

i replace the thermal fuse kit 2 month ago and my dryer was working good but 2 days ago stop heating again so i did replaced the thermal fuse again and i did some lint cleaning but this time it only last about 20 min. and stop heating again.what could be the problem?

Self cleaning features are not recommended by most appliance technicians. The ovens are not constructed satisfactorily to expel the 1000 degree heat, Therefore the thermal fuses blow as well as other parts failures.
Remove the oven. Remove the rear panel. Replace the thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Use Easy Off next time.

Thermal fuse went out by door latch and thermal fuse on back of oven probably tripped too; once failed they need to be replaced. This is probably a job for the repairman as something caused fuse to go out in the first place; unless resolved it will recur. Please contact me if you need further help or leave feedback if appropriate as that is how I get paid. Thanks for letting me help you!

The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.

If your set is going to cost you $495.00 to fix it then you might as well buy a new tv which will be cheaper.from my experience that tv will only cost about between $75.00 to $200.00 to fix.get an estimate from another tech have them take a look at it.before they repair.and let me tell you that it is not the whole power board needs to be replaced just the regulator and some other components.good luck.

Sorry, I have to say it. If the bulb (LED) is shot it would have to be zero flashes :-) It's my weird sense of humour. After that I hope you'll forgive me and someone can give you some real help.