I replaced both belts on my washer. Last night I smelled burning rubber. Today the cycle will fill, and spin yet will not agitate. What should I do ?

The drive motor which spins the drum is connected to the drum by a rubber belt. Sounds like the belt is burned through. Make sure you can spin the inside tub by hand to verify that the tub can turn freely before you replace the belt. The hum is from the drive motor just spinning freely.

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check belt and bearings

There is a clutch assembly under the tub that controls the tub and the agitator. It sounds like the problem is with that.

sounds like u have a problem with the "brain". The agitator and spin cycle should never run at the same time. therefore it leads me to A: brain issue B:problem in the actual transmission of what cycle should be running. You will continue to smell the burning rubber due to the issue being one of the two explained above. Does it ever NOT spin? If this is the case the likely hood is that it will be a solenoid.

OK, this model has a known issue with a bad pump design. The bearing on the pump goes bad and will lock up. The burning smell is the belt trying to turn the pump. Look under the unit and see if you see rubber residue at the pump. Here is the pump to order. To replace the pump, tilt the unit back and remove the belt. Remove the back lower left side access panel. Remove the 2 hoses, then the 3 bolts that hold the pump down. Replace in reverse order. The pump is a new design it looks completely different but will last you the life of the unit.

You most like have a bad motor.

It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. 

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. 

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

• Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.



• The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

you may want to inspect the bottom part and see if it still uses fan belt. it could be that the belt is loose and the motor is spinning but can not drive the transmission. so the rubber burning smell is coming from the slipping belt.

the solution is to tighten the belt or replace it if necessary.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

If you mean the inner drum - remove the agitator, pull off the sofetener cup and remove the 15mm bolt down inside to remove agitator, then secure inner drum to center bearing.
If you mean the outer drum, check the holding down springs visually, remove the front panel by inserting a flat blade approx 4" from each side at the front to release clips, then remove 2 small bolts to remove front panel.
Also check and replace drive belt, tilt machine backwards to gain access underneath.

could be belts slipping or a bad motor going - what's it smell like - burning rubber or an electrical smell?