Cycle interupted until pressure applied to door, near control panel. Fault is intermittent. Sometimes I need to lean a chair against it to keep it going. Door clicks shut nicely and does not leak. Cycle always starts but often will not complete without a thump. Is pressure inside bowing the door and activating a safety switch?

Here are some of the effective shin splints stretches:
1) In a kneeling position, point your toes out behind and gently sit back on your heels pressing the tops of the feet towards the ground.
2) Standing arm length from a wall, put your hands on the wall while keeping your feet and knees straight, then lean forward as far as possible.
3) Standing with your feet flat, bend your knees forward as far as possible keeping your heels on the floor.
4) Put feet flat on the ground and have a partner hold them down. Partner applies resistance to your toes and you lift them up against the pressure.
5) Sitting with your left ankle on right knee, apply pressure to inside of your foot (near big toe) with hand, then and turn your foot up and in, using the leg muscles.
6) In the same position as above, put pressure to the outside of the foot (near little toe) with your hand, and turn foot down and out using the leg muscles.
7) In the same position as above, put pressure to the top of foot (near toes) with your hand, and lift the foot using leg muscles. Repeat these with the right ankle on the left knee.
8) Sit on a table or chair attach a weight (a bucket filled with stones or sand works well) around the foot. Without bending your knee move your foot up and down from the ankle - Start light and work up.
9) Attach one end of a stretching exercise elastic band to the leg of a table or sofa and loop it around the end of the foot. Move your foot up and down and side to side against the bands resistance. Try to draw the letters of the alphabet in the air with your big toe.
10) Stand erect and raise up and down onto your toes several times. You can make it harder by doing it while standing on a step and allowing your calves to stretch over the edge of the step.
11) While sitting lower and raise your feet with the heels on the ground as high and quickly as possible for 60 seconds. This is a great one to do during work days while sitting at your desk.

Limit controls determine the maximum up and down point for the door, so that it doesn't keep trying to close when it's already all the way down, or continue to open when it's fully open.
Force controls determine how much pressure can be applied against the direction of travel before the door will sense the pressure and stop moving. Imagine setting a watermelon or egg in the way of the door when it's closing. If your force control is not set correctly, it will crush the watermelon or egg.

sounds like fatigued or tweaked hinges. Take a good look at the door when it's open without the bottom rack pulled out. It should be parallel to the floor. If it is past paralell... check hinges. See if they can be adjusted.

Disconnect power then remove the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to access and remove the screws more easily.

Once the panel is off, reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly on the right side. Locate the tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard, and then open the door.


The door lock and switch assembly may need to be replaced if the problem persists. The replacement procedure is here.

Behind the chair where the armrests go into the frame are two knobs loosen these knobs and you can adjust (pull out) the armrests to the size you need then retighten the knobs to keep them in place

I have the same problem and it appears that everyone else who has replaced the door seal runs in top this issue. This is a new seal design that is different from the original. This new seal is obviously poorly designed is placing too much pressure on the door causing it to either not close, or open mid cycle. I am presently duck taping the door closed when running the machine in the hope that the heat cycling the new seal will eventually cause it to deform and relieve the pressure. I see that other have attempted to help the process by increasing the release pressure on the latch. This will be the last Kitchenaid large appliance I purchase.

The control monitors the door lock prior to and during the spin cycle as a safety feature. The washer will not advance to the spin cycle when the door lock is not activated and stops when the lock is deactivated during the spin cycle.

In your case, the door lock is working intermittently causing the washer to spin intermittently. This is probably due to a faulty door lock and switch assembly or poor connection at the control board or at the assembly itself. Replace the door lock and switch assembly if necessary.

This is a very common probem with the main control boards if they are push buttons. If it has a selector switch, that is most likely at fault.

First, make sure there are no screws still in the door. Sometimes they are covered with a cap that makes them not visible as screws. You can pry off the caps and then use a screwdrive to remove them. After that, I suggest that you gat a long handle flat head screw driver, put masking tape over the head (to keep it from scratching anything on your door panel) and then slide it between the door panel and the door frame. You wil need to slide it around to find the lastic clips that connect it to the door frame and then apply pressure by pulling the screw driver up against the door panel. This should release the clip...YOU MAY BREAK A FEW CLIPS, but don't worry, your local toyota dealer will sell you as many as you need, and I've noticed that even AutoZone sells them near their hardware section in the store. You will need to keep some outward pressure on the door to pry it away from the fram and that should do it... After it is all pulled away you will probably have to slide it up out of the windw track and you should be all set. Hope this helps... Good Luck!!

Okay, I fixed it for now. The design for this bottom freezer drawer is not good. What happened was most likely that my son slammed the door, and it bounced and was slightly open. Overnight, ice started to form all over the compartment, including inside the drawer guides. Some ice was probably obstructing the drawer glide from sliding shut.

What I did, not thinking this was the solution, was to prop chairs against the drawer to close it while I searched for answers on the Internet. In the meantime, some of this ice must have refrozen in the closed position (due to the weight of the chairs). When I went to check it later, I had a little trouble opening the drawer. I gave it a hard yank and some small frost flew off, as I opened the drawer.

It was not easy sliding it due to the frost. I then moved it out and in until it felt smooth, and finally closed the drawer and it stayed in the shut position.

Kids are instructed to close the drawer gently and visually check that it is sealed. There is also an air passage between the refrigerator unit and the freezer so that when you close the double french doors, some air pushed to the freezer section and momentarily pops the drawer open. You should make sure that the drawer closes before leaving the kitchen. If you are on vacation, prop chairs to make sure both the freezer drawer and the french doors stay closed. This is important if you're in an earthquake area as a small tremor could open the doors and you'll get a fire when the lights stay on and burn through the wiring (as others have noted).