Checked capacitor, diodes and circuit breakers and all check out ok. Still no output voltage. Excited with 12 volts across brushes. Still no output voltage. Took the head off and check field windings which seem to be ok. Checked continuity across brush contacts. No continuity. Applied 9 volts across brush contacts and no current flow through the rotor windings. Is the rotor coils burnt out? I am not sure if there is an AVR unit on this model #PM525202.02. I want to be sure before I spend $200+ for a new rotor.

You need to run these tests in the video and come back to us with the results. Send your test results to us here:https://www.generatorguru.com/ask-the-guru/

Then we can tell you what the problem is :)

How to test your Electricity Generator AVR Brushes and Alternator on...

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
If the microwave doesn't heat the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
If the microwave does not heat, the high voltage transformer might be burned out. Microwave ovens produce a very high voltage in order to power the magnetron antenna, which emits the energy that cooks the food.
If the microwave doesn't heat the high voltage capacitor might be defective. The high voltage capacitor works with the high voltage diode to convert the output of the transformer to DC voltage and to double the output voltage. If the capacitor is burned out the entire high voltage circuit stops working properly. The high voltage capacitor can be checked with a special VOM meter which has a capacitance testing capability. Be aware that the high voltage capacitor can retain a charge of more than 3,000 volts and can injure or kill a person if not handled properly. Only trained technicians should perform this type of testing.
If the microwave oven doesn't heat the magnetron tube might have burned out. The magnetron uses high voltage, high current DC power to generate the microwave frequency that cooks the food. If the microwave oven is turned on when it is empty this can cause the magnetron to burn out. Once it is burned out it has to be replaced, it's not repairable.
If the microwave does not heat, one of the door switches might be defective. Microwave ovens normally have three door switches, if any of them fail the microwave does not turn on and does not heat. Check the switches for continuity with an Ohm meter.
The high voltage diode converts the A/C power output of the transformer to D/C, doubling the voltage to nearly 5,000 volts. This high voltage powers the magnetron which emits the energy that cooks the food. If the diode burns out, a lower A/C voltage reaches the magnetron, which is not sufficient to power the magnetron. When the diode fails it is often visibly burned out. If it appears to be good, it can be tested with a volt-Ohm meter capable of testing diodes. High voltage diodes frequently fail and are one of the most common points of failure in a microwave oven.

The fuel pump relay has four pins. Two pins relate to low power switch circuit from the ECU and the other pins relate to the high current switched circuit which has a permanent power in and switched power out (to fuel pump). Check that the ground on the lower switch circuit pins is good and then check that when the ignition key is in the 'on' position that the low power switch pin has 12.6ish volts supplied to it. If there is no low power switching supply then the relay cannot function. If there is low power supply but no voltage switch on the output then the issue sounds like the relay itself. Pull the relay out and check that it clicks when 12v is dropped across the low circuit pins. Check the resistance across the high current output circuit pins when the low pins are given 12 volts. As 12 volts is applied across the low voltage pins the resistance across the high current output pins should drop to near zero as the internal contacts are closed. As the low side voltage is removed the high side pin resistance should once again register open circuit (infinite resistance). If the relay clicks but fails to output then either replace the relay or open it up and get a nail file and draw it between the contact pins to remove any corrosion.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Test the capacitor. This is an inverter type generator and the armature / rotor is an induction field with a varistor across the armature. They work via magnetics generated by the rotor. That initial AC voltage goes thorough a capacitor and diode to make DC to increase the field strength to reach the final output voltage.

The capacitor needs to be checked (usually has yellow wires) as does the diode pack. Flashing the field in an inverter type generator is usually NOT successful as there are no brushes to the armature / rotor. Isolate the capacitor by removing ONE set of leads off of ONE side. Then set your meter to R x 10K and probe the terminals. You should see a momentary jump and then it goes toward infinity. Reversing the leads each time you probe the capacitor should yield the same jump and drift toward infinity. No Jump = bad cap.

Also look for a micro- circuit breaker in the control panel area. If your unit has the micro breaker you will usually see a tiny orange plunger sticking out about 1/8" Press it back in and test the unit. If it stays reset great. If it pops right away.. there is a short in the capacitor or to and or from the capacitor.

The diode pack can have 3 or 4 wires on it. One wire being common to all of the other wires with meter leads in one polarity. Reversing the test leads across the diode it will read open.

The wires from the capacitor when removed should read resistance to each other. NO resistance - bad stator or broken wires! :( The yellow wires / 2 capacitor wires usually have some male / female round plug in connections. Make sure the connections do not appear that they have been HOT. If you note the connections have been hot try cleaning the terminals first. Most of the time the only option is to cut out the connector and splice the wires.

IF the stator winding checks out good as does the capacitor and doide pack the most probable suspect will be the varistor of the armature / rotor. (
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi, the actual output voltage produced by the alternator will vary depending on temperature and load, but will typically be about 1-1/2 to 2 volts higher than battery voltage. At idle, most charging systems will produce 13.8 to 15.3 volts with no lights or accessories on. This can be measured by connecting the positive (+) and negative (-) test leads of a voltmeter to the battery posts while the engine is running.

Possible cause of the alternator not charging includes Slipping or broken alternator belt, Open diode, Open circuit in stator windings, Open charging circuit, Open field circuit, Worn brushes or slip ring and Defective voltage regulator..

I have the same problem and here is my troubleshooting steps I took.

1) Verified that the unit had no output with induction meter on cables coming out of top of generator head (three black and three white). You can use a volt meter too.
2) Checked that brushes were free and long enough.
3) Checked capacitor (condenser) was 130uF
4) Checked diodes

Well, its not exactly a published procedure, but this is what I would do.

Check field for continuity between leads, as well as continuity from each lead to the core. Between leads, you should have continuity, but you shouldn't be able to measure anything (perhaps in megohm range) between leads and core.

Once you have continuity, check your diode. You should have continuity in one direction only. If not, replace diode. Don't worry about capacitor / regulator at this moment.

Check stator winding for continuity between leads, (don't forget the 12 volt winding too), as well as between each lead and the core. You should not have continuity to the core from any lead.

Make sure breakers are reset, then check continuity through them. Should have it, replace if not. Same goes for the outlet itself.

Reassemble the engine, and start it. Check for a DC voltage at the 12volt battery charger port. If you have it, then your capacitor / regulator is shot. If you don't have it, replace the diode (even if checked good) and the capacitor / regulator. If still don't have 120vac, you can try to flash the field by momentarily touching a small lamp battery (6 volt lantern) to the core, and to one of the brushes. Just for a moment. Then restart. Exact flashing instructions are usually in the user manual.

Have fun!

Double check your brush istallation. positive side toward rotor bearing, if you put 12 vdc directly into brush pack and check with a meter at the 120 vac outlet and have low or no voltage, you may have no resistance in your rotor slip rings, excitor & main windings also need a resistance check. 12.6-16.7 ohms (rotor) 2.26-2.80 ohms (excitation) .26-.32/.28-.35 main or power windings. Note: unit running when appling 12 volts to brush pack. 2-5 second only, ( This test tells you the rotor & stotor are ok )

Two suggestions. One: check for voltage from the secondary coil wires (if it has one). Two: unless stated do not do this, I have always flashed the excitor circuit through the 120vac receptical. Give these a shoot and I hope it works for you.

Hi, remove the electric control panel & check the wiring as sometimes we have seen the wires coming off the voltage change over switches.
Also some of these units you can check the connections in the rear of the alternator & if it has brushes that they are not stuck.
Another problem we have had is the trip switches have went faulty but still switch operates ok, they need to be checked with a probe type tester for conductivety.