I do not have power but I verified int incoming to the board and the fuse is good. Where is the power supply circuitry

Your right, replacing the fuse won't fix anything, it will blow again, I've used the repair kits a few times on the power board that shopjimmy sells and had good luck with it. Samsung BN44-00201A Power Supply Component Repair Kit (shopjimmy.com)

The main power supply board houses the main fuse. Beware, some sets have multiple fuses on the main board. Besides a fuse, some sets have input filters for incoming power. These filters are before the main fuses, so if you have one, verify that you are getting power out of the filter

The place to begin would be to look at the power board:

Here is some general information--:

ISSUES:

1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.
2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.
3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.
4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.

Answers to issues:

1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.

2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.

Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.

What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.

3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have to buyand try a board to see if it fixes it or not.

4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.If set is opened at least look for puffed up and bad caps like in thisphoto.

Hi Kevin,


First of all, thank you for posting your question here at Fixya.com.

My first advice is to ensure that your AC source(outlet) is live. Try to plug it in to a known working outlet to confirm that the power source is not the issue. If you are using a surge protector/AVR, try to directly plug the monitor's plug to the outlet.


If you confirmed that the AC source is not the problem, then this is an indication that the fault is inside the unit. You have to check first the power supply board's fuse. Check its continuity, if it has a continuity, then the fault is on the voltage regulator circuitry and/or other circuitry on this board, I would advice you to replaced the entire power supply board. Click it here for the replacement.


If you found it open, you have to replaced it with same current(ampere) ratings and then try to power on the unit again. You are lucky if the replacement fuse resolve the issue. Sometimes fuse fail due to voltage surge/flactuation, aging however if the new fuse didn't resolve the issue, then you have to replaced the entire power supply board.


Also, check if your unit is under warranty period, avail it because the manufacturer will fix it for free. Opening the rear cover will void the warranty.


Hope I helped you.

Have a nice day!

Good luck and take care!


Kind Regards,

Mjsazon

A few guesses: If you have any headphones plugged in to a connector, cycle it several times; push in and pull out. These connectors can lose contact inside over time.
2nd guess: Badly flowed solder in the area of the audio circuitry. Although most boards are now soldered by robots and some 'flow-soldering,' out of thousands of such solder points intermittent joints can still happen.
Unless you have some knowledge of what to look for to locate the audio circuitry and some insulated tools to probe with, it may come down to a board replacement and that will be expensive if the audio section is part of the main board what is quite likely.
Another possibility is a connector problem between the power supply board and the main board. You should pull the AC plug and allow the set to rest overnight to ensure that any hazardous voltages have a chance to discharge.
Remove the back panel of the set and locate a smaller board with larger parts visible on it; this should be the power supply. Look for plugs on the main (larger board, smaller parts) board and the power supply (this latter may be also visibly related to the incoming AC line). Carefully pull any plugs you see related to these two boards and re-plug them several times; this will 'wipe' any oxidation from the surfaces.
Reassemble and try it.

Probably not too much help right now, but you can get a small device online for just that purpose. Try shopping for "computer power supply tester" Less than $5 including shipping.

The fuse should be located on the primary power supply circuitry on the power supply printed circuit board. It may be encased in a cover, but it should be found on the printed circuit board that supplies power to the unit. I hope this helps.

Well first you want to verify that the range is getting power from your electrical outlet. It is possible that the GFCI has tripped causing no power to the outlet. Once you have verified that there is power to the range you will next need to unplug the range and remove the back panel to do a visual inspection. Verify that there are no loose or disconnected wiring. Also look for any melted wiring or parts. Also check for any burned electrical odor. There might be an inline fuse located inside the range usually located on the hot side of the incoming electrical wire. Verify that this fuse is not blown. If the fuse is bad then you could try replacing it but if it blows again then there might be a short somewhere. And make sure you replace the fuse with the same rating that you removed. If the fuse is good then you might have a bad control board.

A dead condition usually indicates one of the following: Open fuse (often internal, and usually pops due to other circuit defects). Short (overload condition) in the circuitry. Failure elsewhere in the circuitry. Most modern electronics have some logic circuitry, and if there is a section of the circuit not working, the logic circuit keeps the set from coming on at all.

First, if your power cord plugs into the set, check that it is properly connected. If you can get into the internals, find the fuse, check it, replace with an exact or near exact size.

If problems are beyond the simple, technical expertise will be required to nail down and fix the problem.