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My micro oven just suddenly go non-operational, the power is totally gone. I have to check whether the fuse has jumped, but failed to find the fuse, and failed when tried to open the back of the micro oven.. any help is REALLY appreciated..
The fuse is internal and you will have to remove the cover to be able to access it. Unplug the unit. Once you remove the cover, follow where the power cord goes into the unit. The fuse should be in that area. Replace the fuse with the EXACT value of that of the original one.
If the fuse blows again when you put the cover back on and turn it on, then this indicates that you have a problem in the power supply or with the magenetron.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.
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Your Microvawe is probably shoreted internally. Best case scenario, it has an internal fuse but circuits might have suffered. If you are not properly a Microwave orven technician and you don't have the proper testers, you should take it to a repair service to get it diagnosed, it it can be repaired for a reasonable cost.
Often it is a simple part replacement. There are 4 parts that can usually cause this.
- The Fuse fails as a result of another component failure
- The most common failure is the power diode. You remove the chassis to gain access and then make sure you hold a screwdriver by the HANDLE and ground the large capacitor at least 3 times across the terminals. Then you can check the diode by using an ohm meter across the terminals. It should read continuity in one direction only. (reverse lead polarity) If it reads in both directions OR there is no continuity then the diode has failed.
- Next you test the high voltage capacitor by reversing the leads and watching each time for a jump in resistance then the meter returns to infinity. (Diode must be disconnected) No jump in resistance after reversing the test leads or constant resistance = bad capacitor.
- Lastly the Magnetron could have failed. You read resistance of the leads of the Magnetron with one lead disconnected. You must read resistance. No resistance = bad magnetron
I used model JE1160WD001 as an example since you did not include a complete model number. However, the parts I am referring to are common to all JE1160 models.
The fuse should be a 15 Amp 125 VAC Slo-Blow Fuse. Available at any hardware or Appliance parts source.
A failed door interlock switch will cause the fuse to immediately fail if the micro-switch fails in the door open position.
This is a pretty simple microwave and you should be able to bring it back to life. Just keep in mind repair parts costs vs replacement if you have failed magnetron.
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Often it is a simple part replacement. There are 3 parts that can cause this. The most common failure is the power diode. You remove the chassis to gain access and then make sure you hold a screwdriver and ground the large capacitor at least 3 times across the terminals. Then you can check the diode by using an ohm meter across the terminals. It should read continuity in one direction only. (reverse lead polarity) If it reads in both directions OR there is no continuity then the diode has failed. Next you test the high voltage capacitor by reversing the leads and watching each time for a jump in resistance then the meter returns to infinity. (Diode must be disconnected) No jump in resistance after reversing the test leads or constant resistance = bad capacitor. Lastly the Magnetron could have failed. You read resistance of the leads of the Magnetron with one lead disconnected. You must read resistance. No resistance = bad magnetron.
Since you did not include a model number this response assumes you have a non-inverter powered unit. If you need more specific information or have an inverter powered microwave I need a complete model number in your response so I can pass on parts sources and unit specific checks.
If the housing of the unit isn't too difficult to remove (normally 3-5 Phillips screws around the rear edge), with the unit unplugged of course, check for a user replaceable fuse inside.
The magnetron is separately fused and fuses can fail due to metal fatigue.
It will be high amperage; 10-20 amperes and many hardware stores will have them.
BTW, there is no residual radiation from a magnetron that isn't operating.
TAKE OFF THE CABINET AND LOOK FOR A FUSE THAT IS MORE LIKELY GREY AND MADE OF CERAMIC IT IS SHAPED LIKE THE OLD GLASS AUTO FUSES. NO VISUAL (GOOD OR BAD) MUST BE TESTED WITH OHMMETER FOR CONTINUITY
I am not an expert on Miocrowave ovens, but from past experience I know that they have a number of micro-switches on the door as safety devices. If these switches are faulty, the last safety feature is to short the supply and blow the fuse to stop the microwave from operating in an unsafe condition. Obviously the switches would have to be checked first before jumping to any conclusions and a number of other faults would probably cause the fuse to blow as well.
While you checked the wall receptacle it could be a loose connection in your breaker panel where the breaker snaps into the buss bar. Try the unit in an outlet on a totally different breaker and see if you have the same problem. I also say this a lot, if you have a bad fuse holder in the unit it can make the fuse go bad by betting hot and melting so you could have either a bad or weak fuse holder or bad wire connections to the fuse holder. These companies are using some pretty cheap fuse holders these days!!!
1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. After 40 seconds, check to see whether this solves the problem.
3. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
4. Check cooling fan operation
5. Check resistance of the magnetron thermostat.
6. Check the magnetron.
7. Check P2, P4 and P27 connections.
8. Check wiring to the 1100W inverters and control system. See
“Checking Inverters.”
9. Check operation of all interlock switches.
10. Replace inverter, if defective.
11. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
12. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.
13. If problem persists, unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
14. Replace electronic control.
15. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
16. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.
17. If problem persists, unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
18. Check for reversed plug connection on controls or loose wiring.
19. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
20. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.
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