It doesn't spin
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump
or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check
to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer
probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley,
remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it
doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is
broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch
may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at
all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame.
Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get
to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but
doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but
doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is,
the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main
housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front
of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many
Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor
coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on
one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears
out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines
have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace
it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are
designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a
GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch
wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch
is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a
qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many
washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one
direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to
burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this
happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting
properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an
electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective,
the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your
washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair
technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be
worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the
outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the
spin cycle.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water
out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If
so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if
it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine
goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning
the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The
usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is
something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about
4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the
washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
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