At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Oneoftheinkcartridgeisdefective.If you liftthe front cover, the cartridgesstoppositionYouwill indicatewhichofthemisdefective(bythe drawingsonthe printer).
If I could be of further assistance, let me know. If thishelps or solves the issue, please rate it and give a testimonialfor my response.
the power loss light has nothing to do with the alternator, the power loss light is part of the on-board computer system it is the equivalent of the check engine light on newer cars it is on because one of the sensors is not working on the car.
this is how to retrieve the code that is turning on the light.
turn the key on ( do not crank the engine ) turn the key off, turn the key on, turn the key off, turn the key on. ( never crank the engine ) this all has to be done in les then 10 seconds so to re-cap key on, off,on,off, on.
the power loss light will start flashing. all codes are 2 digit, for example a code will look like this.
flash,flash, pause (about 1 second), flash, flash,flash this code would be a 23 , the first two flashes would be a 2 the pause is the separator the next 3 flashes are a 3 so the code is 23, i hope you under stand.
after you get the code let me know what it is and i will look it up for you....good luck
Ok, there are several things to consider. First of all, don't use standard alkaline batteries, the flash needs a lot of power and will drain those quickly. Use either lithium batteries (most powerful non-rechargeable) or invest in NiMH rechargeable batteries. Those would be your best choices for AA's. Now to your flashing red lights - on the Speedlight flash they fulfill 2 functions, one is as auxiliary ready lights (if used as wireless remote flash) but the blinking in your case points to their other function - it blinks 3 times to indicate possible under exposure of your photos at maximum output level. It's basically telling you that the flash was not strong enough to properly illuminate the scene you tried to shoot. That doesn't necessarily mean the batteries are going flat, but you could simply be out of range of the maximum flash power. Your flash has a guide number of 30 - that means at a zoom head position of 35mm (if your lens is at 35mm) and your ISO is 100, then the maximum range of the flash is 30m (approx. 68ft). If your subject is further away, you would get an underexposure warning (3 blinks of the ready lights). Hope that helps explain some things.
I have the same problem. The only way to get the TV to come on is to unplug it, but once you get it back on it turns itself off again in a few minutes.
×