Dryer rack installation

Sounds like you need to contact Sears service. There is a chance that they re-designed the rollers if having them brake was an ongoing issue. The metal replacements might be something that needs to be retro fit to your rack.

it goes into a slot at the base of the plastic located near the shaft that goes to the winder. to repair, unmesh the gears and pull the winder shaft out and put C-shaped piece in with tabbed end down into slot located at shaft housing. put gears shaft back through housing and remesh gears. c-shaped piece is for lock after throwing out line and rewinding for line not to run out.

It hangs on the back wall which stay statioary while the drum turns.

Is the aesthetics of the computer a factor?

May sound like an inane question, but there are those of us that can live with two wires hanging out to a switch.

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

This Actually IS the usual style, and shape of most Power On switches.

Once you take the Power On button mechanism, out of the Front Panel of your computer, you may see this type of switch, incorporated into it.

Advise use care, as Power On button mechanisms are made of plastic, and the power on switch is usually held in by tangs formed out of that plastic part.

The tangs have the tendency to snap off easily. Warm water usually helps when removing the old switch, by heating the plastic up. Dry accordingly, install the new switch.

Or, you may want to peruse a computer repair shop, and see if they have one available. Sometimes they tear down old computers, and save the switches.

This information stated, goes more towards the Mom and Pop type of computer repair shops, not the fancy, 'I want to sell you an expense computer, before you go out the door', shops.

The Power On button you push is just a plastic device, that pushes against one of these types of switches.

Pushes against that little 'N-ipple' that sticks out of the switch.

Just for edification, as not many techs bother to take a Power On switch apart;

Viewing the photo of the switch in the link I provided.

1) You'll see a square case. Metal square top for half of the case, plastic for the bottom half.

2) The n-ipple that sticks out, is a cylindrical shape that is molded to the middle of a flat square base.
It's made of plastic.

3) The metal top is square shaped, and has a hole in the middle. There are tangs that come down the sides of the metal top.
These tangs are bent over, and this is what holds the metal top, onto the plastic square bottom piece.

4) Inside under the movable part of the switch itself, (Number 2 above), is a square, flat, thin sheet of spring metal. (Very Thin)
It is convex shaped.

Pushing the n-ipple in of the switch, depresses the concave shape of the flat spring metal piece.
Makes it flat.

When it is flat, it contacts two terminal contacts at the bottom, of the plastic bottom piece.
The two terminal contacts, are attached to those two wires you see sticking out of the switch.

Letting go of the Power On button let's the flat spring metal piece pop back into it's convex shape.

All the things you never wanted to know, huh?

The tie rack just clips on in the middle. the small piece on the top of the bar in the middle of the rack slides to the left to uninstall, to the right to install. on the bottom middle of the rack is a round piece that tightens to hold the rack level. loosen that piece first, that the top middle piece should slide to the left.

Hi:
The plastic piece is wedge shaped with a machine screw that runs down the middle. Your battery has a ridge that should lock under the edge of your metal battery tray, so the plastic wedge should force the battery back towards the edge of the metal tray.

The top skinny ring that is made of plastic is the one that needs to turn. The metal bell shaped piece does not turn. My plastic ring would not turn either. I took a flat blade screwdriver and stuck it between the plastic ring and metal bell shaped piece. I gently pryed the plastic ring away from the bell shaped piece. The plastic ring has 4 screws that hold it in place, they are at the 8 oclock, 10 oclock, 2 and 4 oclock positions. The ring has to be turned counter-clockwise when looking up at the fan from underneath. Once the ring is off take the 4 screws out and the fan will come down.

Try here.


http://www.devicemanuals.com/guide/Dryer/Kenmore%20Elite/Kenmore-Elite-11067052600-Residential-Dryer-Use-and-==TWpjM01URTM=.html

No official B&D diagram, but userLovenheim from http://www.fixya.com/ posted his/her own picture which I'm posting here:

If it is a dryer with the lint screen on top place the two ends of the metal loop into the two holes closest to the plastic clips on the bottom of the rack. The clip the metal bar down into the clips and the multi-bent part of the metal ring are now atteched to the bottom of the plastic rack. Turn it over and place the metal ring in to the back of the dryer and the front lip of th plastic rack then hangs loosly over the lip of the bottom of the opening of the dryer. It will all tighten up when you close the door. Hope this helps