I need to find a replacement for an ASKO WCAM 1812 control board...

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks to DoorKing 1812.

Bad connection or they sold you a faulty board. With main boards, I would always recommend calling for service as they are expensive and it passes the responsibility to the service engineer to make the right decision and replace a new board if is is faulty. The unscrupulous will clean up and old board and send it back, then they have a spare board or a refund.

If the LCD screen on your ASKO T761 clothes dryer is displaying a checkerboard of black squares, it could indicate an issue with the screen itself or the control board that manages the display. Here are a few possible causes and solutions:

1. Faulty LCD screen: The LCD screen may be damaged or malfunctioning, causing it to display the checkerboard pattern. In this case, you may need to replace the screen.
2. Control board issue: The control board is responsible for managing the functions of the dryer, including the display. If it is malfunctioning, it may cause the LCD screen to display the checkerboard pattern. In this case, you may need to replace the control board.
3. Loose connection: The connection between the LCD screen and the control board may be loose or disconnected. Make sure all connections are securely plugged in.
4. Software issue: If the issue is with the software, a firmware update or reinstalling the software may fix the problem.

For most washers, just close the lid. When the washer is unbalanced open the lid, rearrange the clothes and shut the lid. Washer will start spinning again.

sadly without being tested we would be throwing out a wild guess not a good fix answer . call a local repair service

I am in Australia so my comment relates to that OZ power supply. The first thing I’d do would be to check the pump to eliminate it as the problem. To do that I’d disconnect at the supply end of the pump’s electric cable and make up a 3 pin plug patch lead and supply power to the pump directly through an RCD protected outlet, and see if the pump works independently of the control board. That would confirm the pump is ok and not going to earth (which would trip the RCD.)
Do the water inlet solenoids come off that board? Because if they are, and are mains voltage, check them the same way. Check everything that comes off that board at the appropriate voltage independently.
There will be temp and water flow and drum-wobble sensors which will be low voltage and all need to be independently checked at the right voltage for each to eliminate them as the problem.
A digital multimeter checking the sensors probably won’t do any damage (blow them up).
Visually check the board visually for any burnt or blown components. Some boards have a thermal fuse in the circuit.
Asko should be able to supply the circuit for the board and it’s values. NZ Govt has legislation that compels Asko to provide this info. We got a new board from Asko NZ by post.

CANT U JUST ADD A NEW WIRE U CUT AND SPLICE INTO IT? ADDING A CONNECTING END

http://www.guybanks.com/asko/products.asp?category=3
Control Board Kit Part # 8801201 Price: $319.95 Shipping: Free*

Sounds like the control board is fried. If you have gotten it open here is a link for a new board:
http://www.superiorapplianceparts.com/shop/asko-washer-control-board/?q=/shop/category/washer/asko/
Good luck! And make sure the thing is unplugged before you work on it!
Joseph

Update: The dry cycle is now working! Apparently the automatic overload/shut off on the heating element got tripped. We had a technician out this morning. He unplugged the machine, removed the top of the unit, and simply pushed a little red/orange button that was on top of the heating element. When we plugged it back in the heating element worked again. The technician was able to troubleshoot this by checking the amps while running the dry cycle. But the proof was really when we did a load and the machine heated up (just like it used to) during the dry cycle. This was actually a relatively simply fix - though could be dangerous as you have to open up the electrical area. The reset button is rather inconspicuous and located on top of the heating element, which is long (runs front to back in the center part of the top of the machine - which you can get to by removing the lid/top outer housing) and silver - wrapped in insulation. It's pretty obvious. The button is in a little metal fixture on top of the heating element. The technician told us that the rest can get tripped when the unit overheats. (We think this happened when the laundry tub overfilled and the hose was totally submerged - the machine was working overtime to pump out the water.) The technician also warned that this can happen if the machine gets turned off suddenly mid-cycle - especially during the drying cycle. He said that the heating element gets so hot, it needs to have a gentle cool down period, which is marked on the dryer dial for the last 20 minutes of the cycle. I hope this helps others!

it looks like the control board needs replacing the part no is on the board and starts 80,but first can you get into the menu option or has it locked you out