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We are trying to install the transport bolts an the screw is not lining up with the hole. Whats wrong?????!! There are also 2 different kinds of orange bolts.
Yes there is you best to remove the 3 screws holding the top on slide back remove then you can move the drum around usley have someone pull up install bolt
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Hi Fip, Sounds as if the selector body has been moved out of adjustment and is no longer lining up. There should be an alignment hole through which you can fit a Philips (star screw driver) through an realign. Get a pair of goggles and put them...Take a flash light and then get under the vehicle. Locate the switch selector assembly and look carefully for the holes in the levers and the gearbox body. Loosen the fixing bolt and then slide the screw driver through, getting them all aligned with the one drilled into the box. Once done the selectors will be set. Tighten the locking bolt and it should be good to go. Regards John
ok witch bolt is it. On most tuff bolts that I break trying to remove or install I use a left hand drill bit and then if that does not catch and remove I use an easy out but let it soak for a while with some WD-40 first
It sounds like that either the dowels were misalined or the target bolt in the center of magnet was over torqued. Make sure when installing magnet that the dowel pins are aligned with the hole on the back of the cam.(make sure that there is nothing in the holes on the cam).Install the center bolt and torque to 30 in-lbs. Then make sure the new o-ring is installed on cam sensor. Install sensor and torque mounting bolts to 80 in-lbs. If you follow this very closely,you should not have anymore problems. Hope this will help you.
The "transport or shipping" bolts are located at the rear panel of the washer. There are four of these bolts used to support the suspension system during the transport to prevent damage to the washer. These bolts are removed prior to the first use of the washer and caps are usually placed in the holes left by the bolts. When removing the bolts, remove the lower ones first then the upper ones. Keep the bolts and spanner, if there's any, for future use.
The long one go on the bottom and the short one go on top the hole for the shipping bolts are on the back might have a clear plastic cover over the holes on the back panel there is only one way to put them in start by hand tighten the bolts with nothing in the drum the holes should line up one you fill the catch and get hard to turn start using a wrench when it is done try shaking the inner tub it should not move all the shipping bolts do is keep the tub from slapping around inside the cabinet and breaking things Good luck
Does it move at all??? If so then the star bolt that goes in the center hole is the brake so to speak. the lever that turns back and forth on the column has 2 small screws that attach to the lever. tighten the center bolt until the wheel is secure, then set the tightening lever to the tight position and put the 2 screws in place. they will fit in between the star or teeth on the bolt and attach to the tightening lever.
REMOVAL: 1) Remove the plastic belt routing diagram (there is a bolt underneath if I remember correctly)(yep, 8mm). 2) Using a 3/8 breaker bar or a ratchet, insert into the belt tensioner and push toward the back of the engine enough to release tension on the belt with one hand, and with the other hand, remove the belt from the water pump pulley. Then remove the bar/ratchet from the tensioner. 3) Remove the 4 bolts holding the shiny pulley onto the water pump (11mm). 3a) Large catchpan underneath, there's more coolant in there than it looks like. 4) With a ratchet and possibly a short extension, carefully remove the 5 bolts that hold the water pump onto the block (8mm). 5) Pry the water pump away from the block and clean both surfaces so they are free of gasket material. INSTALL: 1) Line up the gasket and *carefully* fit the new water pump onto the block. The holes are very easy to line up wrong because they are almost, but not quite, equally spaced from each other, so be VERY careful you have all 5 holes lined up right. 2) Screw each bolt in a few tuns to make sure they all go in smoothly. If you get any resistance (it will feel like it's crossthreaded), you have the holes wrong, and you need to rotate the water pump so the holes are lined up right. I can't stress this enough. 3) Torque all the bolts down (I can't recall the exact in/lbs - sorry) in a star pattern. 4) Mount the pulley onto the water pump shaft, torque bolts down (an air ratchet helps greatly here as the shaft will try to spin when the bolts start getting tight). 5) Release the tension as explained in step 2 at the top, put the belt back on the water pump pulley & double check to make sure it's on all the other pulleys while you're at it. 6) Bolt the plastic bolt routing diagram back onto the head. 7) Refill the resevoir and bleed the system of air. That's it! It's an hour or so job if you've never done it before. Note, if you're not using a gasket, get some water pump gasket sealer and make a gasket around the entire diameter of the mounting surface of the water pump. Remember to make little circles around the bolt holes also.
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